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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
I'm looking to buy my first trans am tomorrow. The car I'm considering is a 84 with a swapped 350 and the original 5 speed. The car has 70000 on it and 50000 on the motor (with the paperwork to prove it). Minor things have been done to the engine (cam, intake, carb) all of it was done by a reputable machine shop. It has fairy new paint and the body is free of noticeable dents. The biggest thing is there's rust starting at the bottom of the doors. Is that common? He has a new set to go with it, they just need paint so I'm not too worried. Also the slave cylinder is leaking so the clutch depresserized.
My biggest concerns are:
1. Should I be worried about the rust on the bottoms of the doors? What other places should I check for rust?
2. Are the slave cylinders hard to replace on these cars? I did one on a subaru once and it took about half an hour tops. I picked one up today just in case I get the car. I'll return it if I dont.
3. What's the biggest things to look out for when buying a 3rd gen?
4. Hes asking $2600 I'm hoping to get it for a couple hundred less. Does that seem like a fair deal?
With doors that rusty I'd be going over every inch of the underneath of that car looking for rust/rot before I committed to any sort of price . With the fubar clutch slave you can't really test drive it , major drop in the offering price as far as I'm concerned . Looking at that "everything but the kitchen sink" plumbing job on the exhaust would be knocking a few more pennies off and ditto for any other obviously jury rigged running gear that will appear once the hood is open .
PS , DO NOT install that slave cylinder you've got into that car till the title is signed over to you and you've paid the money you and the seller agree on . Trust me on this , things can get real ugly when the seller now thinks his drivable car is worth $1000 more cause you just fixed it for him .....
Without knowing interior I have no idea if its worth it.
X2 on the double check for rust EVERYWHERE.
Also, 70k miles how is that being proven?
The doors worst case can be replaced easily.
If it's not drivable and they aren't willing to make it so prior to buying then the car is worth $1500 at best.
with doors that rotted out, there is bound to be more rot. check areas like the rear bottom quarters and floor pans very well especially along the pinch weld up front.
I'd expect that trans to be close to death since its the factory t5 put behind a cammed 350. those transmissions can't handle any more torque than what the 305's put out unless grandma driven. I don't think someone with a cammed 350 babied the car for 50,000 miles.
with doors that rotted as everyone has said theres bound to be more. the t5 is probably broken needing more than a slave with a 350 behind it. sounds sketchy. id be offering 800 without being able to driving it, if it drove id ask to take it to a local repair shop and borrow a lift to inspect the underside. i picked up my 91. needed paint badly, ran drove and literally rust free for 1200 and traded an engine for it. i dont think your getting a good deal anywhere near 2600.
exhaust looks jank, id check every inch of wiring, if he already has doors for it he realized it was an issue, repainted it to cover something up. i wouldnt trust it, and do not fix the car for him.
I would check all the floor boards, rockers, frame and the rest of the body under the car
for rust. Looks like the door are rotted pretty bad. Check the frame to for rust and make sure its not bent may have been in an accident.
Thanks for all the great advice! I'm still going to look at it, but this one looks like it'll be a pass. Also are we talking about the same t5 that they put in s10's? I didn't realize they used them for anything bigger than the 2.8/3.1. Is there a different trans commonly swapped in for higher hp builds?
Without knowing interior I have no idea if its worth it.
X2 on the double check for rust EVERYWHERE.
Also, 70k miles how is that being proven?
The doors worst case can be replaced easily.
If it's not drivable and they aren't willing to make it so prior to buying then the car is worth $1500 at best.
Here is the only interior picture i got. I would say its far from pristine.
with doors that rotted out, there is bound to be more rot. check areas like the rear bottom quarters and floor pans very well especially along the pinch weld up front.
I'd expect that trans to be close to death since its the factory t5 put behind a cammed 350. those transmissions can't handle any more torque than what the 305's put out unless grandma driven. I don't think someone with a cammed 350 babied the car for 50,000 miles.
I agree that the 3550 is a nice transmission, but you still have questionable rust, AND.....the car still isn't drive able. IMHO, there are way too many others out there for that price. Sure, ya never know everything, but I wouldn't bother with it.
Here's how you play this ; You go look at the car and while noting the things that are good , you make specific mention of the things that are not , like the exhaust and the fact that it won't run . Offer $1500 while repeatedly stressing that if it could be driven it would be worth closer to his $2600 rather than the $1500 your offering* and if he balks be prepared to walk . While leaving give him your phone number and tell him to call you when it sits long enough for him to accept your $1500 offer , and if you haven't yet found one you'll come get it for the $1500 . I'll bet he calls you back within a day or two at most .....
* Contingent on , of course , there being no "death rot" or "oil milkshake" or any other major flaws/defects .
Here's how you play this ; You go look at the car and while noting the things that are good , you make specific mention of the things that are not , like the exhaust and the fact that it won't run . Offer $1500 while repeatedly stressing that if it could be driven it would be worth closer to his $2600 rather than the $1500 your offering* and if he balks be prepared to walk . While leaving give him your phone number and tell him to call you when it sits long enough for him to accept your $1500 offer , and if you haven't yet found one you'll come get it for the $1500 . I'll bet he calls you back within a day or two at most .....
* Contingent on , of course , there being no "death rot" or "oil milkshake" or any other major flaws/defects .
agreed, $1500 is what I'd be comfortable paying for a questionable car that doesn't run, and that's only if there's no further rot than the doors.
I paid $1100 for my 86T/A and feel like I shouldn't have paid more than $800 due to the rot I found.
I'm looking to buy my first trans am tomorrow. The car I'm considering is a 84 with a swapped 350 and the original 5 speed. The car has 70000 on it and 50000 on the motor (with the paperwork to prove it). Minor things have been done to the engine (cam, intake, carb) all of it was done by a reputable machine shop. It has fairy new paint and the body is free of noticeable dents. The biggest thing is there's rust starting at the bottom of the doors. Is that common? He has a new set to go with it, they just need paint so I'm not too worried. Also the slave cylinder is leaking so the clutch depresserized.
My biggest concerns are:
1. Should I be worried about the rust on the bottoms of the doors? What other places should I check for rust?
2. Are the slave cylinders hard to replace on these cars? I did one on a subaru once and it took about half an hour tops. I picked one up today just in case I get the car. I'll return it if I dont.
3. What's the biggest things to look out for when buying a 3rd gen?
4. Hes asking $2600 I'm hoping to get it for a couple hundred less. Does that seem like a fair deal?
Check closely at floor pans. Cargo pan spare tire pan. If those are rotted its a parts car. Doors if thats all is no problem. But id say with that much door rot id be amazed if the floor pans are not gone also.
rust is an iceberg, its not what you see that is gonna hurt, it is what's hiding underneath that will sink your boat. Be thorough and look it over carefully, especially behind that remaining lower body trim on the rear quarter.
Took another look at the pictures, looks like the rot continues onto the rear quarters behind the ground effect as well as a little on the fenders. wondering what the inner door jam looks like.
Took another look at the pictures, looks like the rot continues onto the rear quarters behind the ground effect as well as a little on the fenders. wondering what the inner door jam looks like.
Yep , Good eye Tyler , it does look to extend under the plastic .
Oh , and to the OP , if this car still ends up under consideration don't forget to mention the four missing center caps for the wheels while your rattling off the list of why it's WAY closer to a $1500 car than a $2600 one ....
So any updates? Is it coming home with you or are you continuing your search.
I PASSED on this one. Alot of rust mostly hidden it was a nice looking car from 15ft. I found a one owner 82 t/a I'm picking up tomorrow! It was garaged every winter. Even the orginal exhaust looks new. Paint is also immaculate. It test drove good. And they accepted my offer of 2200 for
it.
02-21-2017, 04:42 PM
With doors that rusty I'd be going over every inch of the underneath of that car looking for rust/rot before I committed to any sort of price . With the fubar clutch slave you can't really test drive it , major drop in the offering price as far as I'm concerned . Looking at that "everything but the kitchen sink" plumbing job on the exhaust would be knocking a few more pennies off and ditto for any other obviously jury rigged running gear that will appear once the hood is open . 
PS , DO NOT install that slave cylinder you've got into that car till the title is signed over to you and you've paid the money you and the seller agree on . Trust me on this , things can get real ugly when the seller now thinks his drivable car is worth $1000 more cause you just fixed it for him ..... 
Here's how you play this ; You go look at the car and while noting the things that are good , you make specific mention of the things that are not , like the exhaust and the fact that it won't run . Offer $1500 while repeatedly stressing that if it could be driven it would be worth closer to his $2600 rather than the $1500 your offering* and if he balks be prepared to walk . While leaving give him your phone number and tell him to call you when it sits long enough for him to accept your $1500 offer , and if you haven't yet found one you'll come get it for the $1500 . I'll bet he calls you back within a day or two at most .....
Oh , and to the OP , if this car still ends up under consideration don't forget to mention the four missing center caps for the wheels while your rattling off the list of why it's WAY closer to a $1500 car than a $2600 one .... 
