Cooling temp sensor
Cooling temp sensor
Say I was wondering and I hope this is not a dumb question but if you have a bad cooling temp sensor can that cause the car to run poorly like in poor acceleration I have a 92 Z28 TPI 5.7.
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Re: Cooling temp sensor
Not dumb. Yes it can.
The engine's fuel, and to some extent ignition timing, requirements vary according to its temp. Therefore if the ECM is being told that the coolant is at -47° or 278° or some other wacked thing, it can act very ... wacked.
Eeeeeezy and cheeeeeeep enough to just replace it. Although I'm not normally a "just swap it out" kinda guy, in this case, it belongs in the category of "when in doubt swap it out". Not really worth "troubleshooting" since that's harder and more time-consuming, and then after going through all that, you're still at about 95% odds that you'll STILL need to replace it. Might as well skip all that and jump straight to the meat of the matter. Might even want to replace the pigtail at the same time if it looks AT ALL impaired; if so, solder & heat shrink it, NOT just a crimp butt splice.
The engine's fuel, and to some extent ignition timing, requirements vary according to its temp. Therefore if the ECM is being told that the coolant is at -47° or 278° or some other wacked thing, it can act very ... wacked.
Eeeeeezy and cheeeeeeep enough to just replace it. Although I'm not normally a "just swap it out" kinda guy, in this case, it belongs in the category of "when in doubt swap it out". Not really worth "troubleshooting" since that's harder and more time-consuming, and then after going through all that, you're still at about 95% odds that you'll STILL need to replace it. Might as well skip all that and jump straight to the meat of the matter. Might even want to replace the pigtail at the same time if it looks AT ALL impaired; if so, solder & heat shrink it, NOT just a crimp butt splice.
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Car: 1987 iroc
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Re: Cooling temp sensor
Just curious, is the check engine light on? Or has it been on? Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,591
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From: WI.
Car: 1987 iroc
Engine: 383 TPIS intake, Dyno Don headers
Transmission: 700R4 w/Pro-built Auto/transgo 2-3
Axle/Gears: 3.27/3.70 borg warner 9 bolt
Re: Cooling temp sensor
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From: Mile High Country !!!
Car: 1967 Camaro, 91 z28
Engine: Lb9
Transmission: M20
Axle/Gears: J65 pbr on stock posi 10bolt
Re: Cooling temp sensor
Incase you need directions
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bu...trieval-method
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bu...trieval-method
Re: Cooling temp sensor
Well I just replaced the cooling temp sensor . I'm not sure if the old was working or not but when I took it out the plastic housing around the two pins broke and the wire plug to the sensor looks alright . But we'll see how it go's . Anyways thanks guys for all the info.
Joined: Sep 2005
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Cooling temp sensor
Pulling the codes is always a good idea, if the light is on. But not all problems will set a code. The sensor has to be telling the ECM something that it can be programmed to know, is blatantly impossible. For example: RPM low, TPS says wide open, vacuum is high (MAP low). It's physically impossible for those 3 things to happen at the same time. Faced with that, the ECM just has to make a guess which one doesn't fit the others. In the case of the coolant temp, if the ECM doesn't see the temp reach some reasonable value (120° or some such) within about 5 minutes of running, it knows something is wrong. Even if it's -30° out, the engine should warm up. If it doesn't see that, that is if the sensor continues to report a cold condition, it can reasonably infer that the sensor is lying. It's much tougher if the sensor reports a warm condition; the ECM has no way to know that that's a lie.
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