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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
22 years ago I had a '85 coup de ville that sporadically cut out the same way my formula is. Except temperature wasn't the trigger, it happened at low rpm accelerating from a stop. Clicking noise inside the passenger dashboard. It was the fuel pump relay. Very similar almost exactly what it feels like, except its not a bad relay.
I forgot to say I had a new flowmaster put on last week. I'll get the cat looked at tomorrow for sure, man.
I suspect you may be dealing with multiple problems i.e. The blue smoke and the running hot cutout. However the backed up exhaust that zed-028 mentioned could contribute to blue smoke if it is also after startup. Excessive backpressure might be able to cause excessive blowby which goes out the PCV and fed back into the intake. I never saw it that bad but if your rings are worn I'm thinking it could. That could help foul the plugs and cause missfires.
But I agree that your keen observation that the cutout is temperature related may be key here. Typically ICM/ignition or ECM related. Fuel related second. Maybe blocked exhaust third. IMO.
Blue smoke is likely something else altogether as mentioned previously.
Where is Sofa. I'd love to hear what he thinks
Hope that helps, my $0.02 FWIW,
Tim
Last edited by TAbracadabra; 03-11-2019 at 12:48 PM.
Reason: Typo
It was really warm and sunny out yesterday I drove a 30 miles out and then lots of city driving, about $20 in gas.
The day before I put my fan on a ground switch and bought a new pcv valve.
What i know now, it does not matter where the coolant temp sits at! It seems as long as whatever in that engine bay gets hot enough, it happens.
All the way back to my house, fan on. When i got home it was still really warm out and I parked and let it sit for 45 minutes and it still acted up. Obviously something didn't get to cool down enough.
The embarrassment at an intersection when the light turns green sucks.
I started on making a ALDL cable but fck that, ill buy one. There are a few obd1 scan tools with live data, maybe I can find something while its acting up?
I do have a new fuel pressure regulator (kit) and TBI gasket if it's worth the changing out?
I havent left out the idea of fuel pressure test, i just have to get one and do it.
7l
There is an older obd Snap-on mtg2500 graphing scanner complete with all the cartridges and cables for 175$. As far as I know that will show alot of live data. Please correct me if I'm wrong!
My mechanic has a Snap-on modis edge obd2 but i don't have the obd1 adapter and im not sure any aftermarket brand will work on it. I've heard they've put chips in them to detect generic brands. ??
I don't mind making my own cable I'm just confused between all the different tutorials, which one to use for my car. I've got all the resistors and transistors..
One of the tuts even mention using a PNP type transistors and then another tut said to use a NPN one. Well which one is it? Anyone know of which tutorial I need to use for my ECM, I prefer the Serial to > USB type cable .
Tell me I need to order a ALDL cable from moats! But I hate waiting for delivery thats why I never order online=(
There is an older obd Snap-on mtg2500 graphing scanner complete with all the cartridges and cables for 175$. As far as I know that will show alot of live data. Please correct me if I'm wrong!<br /><img src="https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thirdgen.org-vbulletin/720x1280/screenshot_20190318_135542_7825a1e7879f3217d35d639ba467feba303d2c40.png"/><br />My mechanic has a Snap-on modis edge obd2 but i don't have the obd1 adapter and im not sure any aftermarket brand will work on it. I've heard they've put chips in them to detect generic brands. ??<br /><img src="https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.thirdgen.org-vbulletin/2000x1163/snap_onmodisedge01_full_2b2c00a895c12b803543e0301378ca2071197477.jpg"/><br />I don't mind making my own cable I'm just confused between all the different tutorials, which one to use for my car. I've got all the resistors and transistors..<br />One of the tuts even mention using a PNP type transistors and then another tut said to use a NPN one. Well which one is it? Anyone know of which tutorial I need to use for my ECM, I prefer the Serial to > USB type cable .<br /><br />Tell me I need to order a ALDL cable from moats! But I hate waiting for delivery thats why I never order online=(
I can`t speak regarding the Snap-on scanner. Maybe someone else could chime in on that.
I did provide links to the OBDI cable and real time software in post #41. You might want to look/Review.
Also, did you happen to address those wires to the distributor? I mentioned that in post #25.
Just wondering. Sorry if I missed your updates regarding them.
Tim
Last edited by TAbracadabra; 03-18-2019 at 11:01 PM.
Reason: Fix Typo and HTML visible code in reply
Aviator857 and Tealman - both injectors ohm tested and matched. Tested while hot but NOT WHILE ACTING UP.
I captured some data with an old snap-on mtg2500 'brick'. Not much to look at.. I had to drive around a bit to get it to act up. The cooler weather only allowed for minimal symptoms but very noticeable as i was recording, like loss of power / hesitation but not cutting out too bad like on a really warm day.
The hotter it is outside the deeper it cuts out.
Here is what I saw and the video below shows each frame:
ESC_COUNTER , KNOCK and ASYNCH PULSE lit up. Maybe that is normal due to EST adjusting due to my advance timing? i don't know.
**Please note, i did advance the timing just a tad bit yesterday.and unplugged the timing wire harness near firewall.
At the same time I unplugged the AIR TEMP SENSOR at the air cleaner activating codes 23 - MANIFOLD AIR TEMP TOO LOW and, 42 - EST.
Not sure why i have code 33 - MAP SENSOR OR CIRCUIT TOO HIGH
**Before starting the engine and departing for the test this morning I plugged the AIR TEMP SENSOR back in. I plugged the timing wire harness back in just beofbefore recording the data
Was looking for my rpo label that now i can't find. I found the old proof of insurance card from the 2nd owner inside the trunk compartment and was able to track him down. Knowing when the problem started is good idea.
Don't worry..
I'll get you fixed long before summer!
Was looking for my rpo label that now i can't find. I found the old proof of insurance card from the 2nd owner inside the trunk compartment and was able to track him down. Knowing when the problem started is good idea
Don't worry
I'll get you fixed long before summer!
My label is inside the center console storage compartment on the right side. On other cars I've seen them in the glove box and also on the hatch door/cover to the spare tire.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by TAbracadabra; 03-23-2019 at 02:53 AM.
Reason: Fix Typo
Thank you! Im certainly in love it. My dad worked at general motors in Van Nuys after the Navy, we had new 89 camaros and learning about that last day iroc z build was.. . I'm lost for words.. =(
Thank you! Im certainly in love it. My dad worked at general motors in Van Nuys after the Navy, we had new 89 camaros and learning about that last day iroc z build was.. . I'm lost for words.. =(
Wow, that is so awesome. I cherish every moment my Son and I get to work on our cars together.
Hope we can help you get yours back in top shape asap.
Heres my TBI. Who thinks the injectors look new? Are they original? even the TBI gasket looks new.
More at bottom of pics...
I put the TBI right back on. The TPS plug is different the one I'm switching in, too.
The 3 bolts holding down my TBI, all 3 were loose. 1 was kinda right but the other 2 bolts were really loose!
I am driving the car now and what a major difference after tightening the TBI bolts up! No more idle hunting but will do the ultimate shut engine off then start up to make sure. And the idle does not drop lower then idle rpm and its running cleaner. I'm still testing to see if it will cutout...
Vacuum leakes under the throttle body confuse the ECU. And that was a massive leak
Looks like someone had it off at some point.
It's still cutting out.
I couldn't put yours on because the tps sensor wire harness is different and those injectors look new in mine. I'm trying to find out if those injectors are oem.
Vacuum leakes under the throttle body confuse the ECU. And that was a massive leak
Looks like someone had it off at some point.
Okay, heres what I did I swapped the upper half of the throttle body, the top housing the injectors and regulator, keeping my bottom half.
On first startup the spray pattern was there but looked like some stragglers spitting droplets on the outside of the spray pattern but, couldn't be sure if it wasn't a problem because it idled very smooth.
I went for a test drive and I wow what an extra improvement on top of tightening the 3 loose big tbi bolts earlier today. I think I am now experiencing what a fully stock 305 feels like to drive.
It's more responsive and quicker i had a hard time staying off the gas pedal and giving this t5 a fun work out haha.
Oh and the small bolts that hold the top half of tbi, 1 or two of them were loose too!
Maybe the 275's ( or larger) are available in a sligtly larger profile like 40 or 45's.
That might look killer! Just a thought.
Ahh man why didn't I think of that! I will ask the tire shop what they can do its only been a few days but I'm probably stuck with them (paid 200$). That would be one helluva twist on the 'dragster race car' style! ...on 22" rims =)lol omg
I'd have to do more searching for info on 22" rims.
I do suspect you might need to decide if you want tall rims or wide tires if you want to keep the stock body. Of course if you go for custom wheel well tubs and if needed notch the subframe and body you could do much more.
Some great info in those threads.
Hope it gives some good food for thought.
Last edited by TAbracadabra; 04-05-2019 at 01:49 AM.
Reason: Add info
03-11-2019, 12:01 PM
...on 22" rims =)lol omg 