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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
picking up a 350 vortec tomorrow. 1997 and was TBI from my understanding. need to be rebuilt as it smokes a little when it runs, oil blow by or valve guides i think. anyways i am going to order a stock rebuild kit for it with new bearings and rings and gaskets. a dual plane vortec square bore intake. I have already order stainless headers. I am wondering what is the max lift cam i can run on this thing being stock? hydrolic roller i think is stock style. and if anyone has any suggestions on one. I am also going to order an hei dist. with vacuum advance. i would like a decent bump in performance, but still have decent street manners.
trans is a 700r4 with a B&M street shift kit in it and stock converter. if i need to get a higher stall than i will do it as well sense now will be the time. rear is the stock 2.73 posi 10 bolt. replacing shocks and struts and all rubber under the car as well.
Unmodified Vortec heads are good for .460 lift. You can get beehive springs to increase this to .550 easily. The LS6 beehives will drop in with comp 787 retainers. Though I went with the PAC 1218 springs for more seat pressure and they fit better as the LS6 springs were tight around the valve guide boss for me. There are many cams to choose from - the XR276HR is a nice choice for a Vortec.
Go with at least a 2200 stall converter (S10). And something lower in the back. 3.42 or 3.73, etc.
i was thinking about reusing my 305 heads and TPI, that way i could tune it better and have fuel injection, but then i thought about compression 101, i might get a big boost in compression, but that will not do me a whole lot of good sense the tpi and heads would limit the rpm's due to air flow. so i decided on a dual plane intake and maybe a 600-650cfm square bore carb.
Look into scoggin dickeys vortec base.
If your wanting to stick with stock springs/lift
GM 94666492
Same cam as a Crane 2032 with a much cheaper price tag.
270/276 @ 0.004
214/220 @ .050
.452/.465" LIFT
112 LSA, 108 ICL
You will have to double check your clearance but I think stock is .470 max lift.
Keep the TPI and get the Vortec base for it. Definitely do use the Vortec heads as they are much superior to your existing heads. In fact they are arguably the best part of the Vortec engine. Check retainer to seal clearance with any cam you use but the one Tuned Port suggested should work ok with stock springs, etc.
The LS6 springs are pretty cheap and good insurance IMO. I would at least do those to avoid any issues. And that opens up the cam choice considerably.
On tpi the fpr is on the fuel rail. On tbi it’s in the tbi . The only other things you need are a cam plate, spider web and roller lifters and dog bones if your missing these parts.
okay, well i pick up the motor tomarrow afternoon, then i got to figure out how to get it out of my van. lol. i will tare it down as much as i can and see what i need. from what i have been told is it is complete from top to bottom except for a carb. i am trying to do this kind of cheap, but make it last at the same time. i am waiting on so much stuff right now, all the mail carriers are going to hate me. lmao. i have a stand coming, cherry picker, paint guns, paint, all kinds of stuff. i also bought new shocks and struts but i am waiting till next payday to order the master bushing kit.
thank you for the links as well Tuned. i hate second gessing my self and i am always worried i will order the wrong stuff. been a while sense i have rebuilt a car motor. give me watercraft, side by sides, or an atv and i can do it with my eyes closed all day at work.
You can't measure pushrods with a mic or even with a caliper. They aren't measured end-to-end. They are measured as if the ends were spherical.... which they aren't because of the holes in the tips. You are best off buying the checker rod and the plastic rocker geometry checker. They are cheap tools.
FWIW, the stock Vortec pushrods are 7.200, but after decking the block, decking the heads, using the .015" shim gasket, and with the Comp cam, and Comp lifters, and Scorpion narrow body rockers I ended up needing 7.000 pushrods. You'll need to check.
once i get this motor done with the cam, new intake for the TPI, and maybe some porting to the tpi to open it up, what do you guys think it will roughly be pushing HP and TQ wise?
okay i ordered the intake, rebuild kit, push rod checker, adjustable pushrod tool, camshaft, intake bolts. i have not orderd the spider stuff yet as he says it should have it still, but i have it saved encase it dont.
well that didnt go so well. drove 2 hrs picked up motor. looked at it and seen the heads and thought ok. we loaded it and home i went. started to pull the intake and i see something on the back.. hit it with a wire brush. its a 5.0 not a 5.7.. told they guy, he has one more in his field of cars, gonna pull it and pick up next weekend..
LoL. Yeah that's not a "real" Vortec. That's an L30 "Vortec" and the heads are *ok*.... for a 305. They aren't real Vortec's in that they don't have the chamber and intake design of the L31 head. They do share the Vortec intake bolt pattern, etc. They just don't have the flow characteristics. Unfortunately it's pretty much a boat anchor.
The emissions sticker under the hood of these "trucks" will list the engine size.
General that would be ok if the other was not in a early 80s truck. someone was doing a swap into it but never finished before he got the truck. he says it is a 5.7 vortec. so i will bring my brush to check the stamp on the back of the block this time. if its not then i will ask for a refund and find one else ware. just kind of sucks because i ordered all these parts already in prep for it. lol. at least he seem's honest with me, and is working with me to make things right.
Tuned i hope so as well. oh. i bought an adal cable today, a chip burner, and 2 chips. want to help teach a brother?
2 x C2 SST 27SF512 Chip (C2)
1 x 'ALDU1 and CABL1' (ALDU1_CABL1)
1 x 'BURN2 Chip Programmer' (BURN2)
did you get a g1 ?
If not no biggie, I could help you with a starter tune and solder in a dip socket.
If you got a hdr1 that helps so you can just reprogram the chip while it’s socketed into the memcal. I like to solder in the d2 in the memcal and burn directly.
Last edited by Tuned Performance; 03-11-2019 at 10:49 PM.
no i didn't think i would need it so i didn't order it. i did not want to order one and not use it. my parts list of stuff i am waiting on so far.
2 x C2 SST 27SF512 Chip (C2)
1 x 'ALDU1 and CABL1' (ALDU1_CABL1)
1 x 'BURN2 Chip Programmer' (BURN2)
Item: SDPC SD12550027 - Vortec Intake 12 Point Bolt Kit (SD12550027)
Item: SDPC SD3816 - TPI Vortec Lower Intake Baseplate (SD3816)
Chevy SBC 350 1982 - 1992 Camaro Firebird Stainless Steel Exhaust Headers
1982-1990 CAMARO Digital Dash Panel Gauges Blue LEDs LS SWAP REA...
PRO-66789 Pushrod Length Checker, Mockup Rocker Arm Only
TFS-9000 Pushrod Length Checker, Adjustment Range
94666492 Camshaft
FEM-205-6504M000 Engine Re-Ring, Moly
CLO-C-3017 Timing Chain and Gear Set, Single Roller, Iron/Steel Sprockets, Chevy, OE Roller Cam, V8, Set
TMK-9845 Timing Cover Seal,
KYB 236001 Strut
KYB KG5562 Shock Absorber
MONROE DX154 Brake Pad
MONROE BX514R Brake Shoe
this is all i can do till payday now. lol. at my budget for the moment.
LoL. Yeah that's not a "real" Vortec. That's an L30 "Vortec" and the heads are *ok*.... for a 305. They aren't real Vortec's in that they don't have the chamber and intake design of the L31 head. They do share the Vortec intake bolt pattern, etc. They just don't have the flow characteristics. Unfortunately it's pretty much a boat anchor.
The emissions sticker under the hood of these "trucks" will list the engine size.
GD
Canadian cast 059 L30 Marine Vortec heads outflow the Hecho en Mexico garbage 062s GM made in 2006 that came off the goodwrench crate 350 in my Express van.
Just trying to let you know you might need to get them magnafluxed.
yeah. i planed on it anyways when it goes to the shop to get it checked out and vatted before i start putting it back together. so today my tires came in, then this stuff!!! Intake Base. Intake Base Bolts.
@Fast355 , Isn’t there a vortec head that’s prone to cracking ?
I have seen many cracked 062 and 906 heads. One mild overheat cracked BOTH of my 062 Hecho en Mexico crate motor heads in my Express van. I had a radiator drain plug snap in half and leaked all the coolant out on the highway. Never even hit the red mark on the temperature gauge and it still ended up with 2 cracked heads. Those Hecho en Mexico 062s were also simply HORRIBLE in terms of flow and performance. Flow bench never even hit 220 cfm intake flow.
Dang it Tuned. caught me with my pants down.. i forgot to get that egr block off and the 9th injector one as well. thank you for the link. more parts came in today but i can not post yet. got to get my computer reformatted so i can use tuneing and burning programs.
Thank You. everyone hear has been helping me with this build and questions and issues so far. I finally had the ability to get some stuff so i figure why not, lets do it. lol love me some Thirdgen. lol
It will work, and Cloyes makes a quality product. It's just not what Summit is describing it as. You definitely have a case for returning it free of shipping charges as you did not get what was advertised. Call them they will take care of it.
so i just found out that i can get flat top pistons and moly rings for 120$ plus shipping. that should bring my compression to around 9.75 i think. would it be worth it? i know i have to have the motor re balanced if i change pistons so i dont know how much more it will cost me vs performance gains.
You can get the same effect from decking the block and heads then using a .015" metal shim gasket. And honestly you should do that anyway to get a good surface finish. Then you can use the stock pistons, not have to press them off the rods, and not have to balance the assembly.
You can get the same effect from decking the block and heads then using a .015" metal shim gasket. And honestly you should do that anyway to get a good surface finish. Then you can use the stock pistons, not have to press them off the rods, and not have to balance the assembly.
GD
Your are negating the quench benifits of the flat top piston doing that. Why GM chose that horrible dish design especially in the Vortecs I will never understand. A D'shape dish would have worked much better. A flat top would have worked even better especially with a slightly larger chamber. The LQ9 6.0L I built actually had the pistons (true flat top with no valve reliefs) sticking out of the deck 0.003" and searching around that was intended from the factory. GM used a 71cc chamber and 0.050" thick head gasket. Even at 10:1 those engines do not have detonation issues. I put 5.3 heads on the one I put together and have 11:1 compression. With the small cam I am running it has a DCR of about 9.2:1. Runs all day long on 93. I would balance the rotating assembly anyway. The factpry production one usually leaves alot to be desired in terms of balance. Bearing loads will be lower and the engine will run noticeably smoother if it is correctly balanced.
well crap.. new motor update.. it is a 5.7l, it is bored .040 over. has new rings and acl race bearings in it that are 30 over as well. heads are 141102193's... too me they look like vortec, but after running the numbers they are not. they are the tbi heads just before the vortec's came out and have the swirl port intake ports.. grrr. now i am at a loss. i need a new motor to go in before long. my 305 smokes when i first start it, and i think it has over 100k on it. runs decent though.. so as it stands right now i have parts i dont think i can use. new motor is a flat tappet and the mounts are not drilled out for the roller cam stuff i already have. i do not know if my new tpi intake will work with thease heads. the block and pistons are nice and clean, still has cross hatch's in the cylinders and the pistons are clean, lightly used but clean so i dont think the motor was ran long after someone rebuilt it. thinking of leaving it alone for now. it has a stock cam in it though but i will want to at least change it out to a bigger one.
03-10-2019, 12:12 PM
