Trouble Code 44???
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Blackwood,NJ USA
Trouble Code 44???
wow i been so busy working i just now noticed all the changes to the sight,and i have to say it looks great.
Now the car trouble im having.My cars been running like sh@t and the idles all messed up it seems and sometimes it clears up but the SES lighjt comes on the the car runs real rough and almost stalls.Sometimes the car didnt wanna start too and i replaced the Fuel pump relay cause i was getting a code 54 and code 44,so that eliminated the starting problem.But it still runs like sh@t and i have the idle problem and stalling problem,and still the code 44.I checked and found no vacuum leaks at all.The oxygen sensor is pretty new,but its not the best from what i know so maybe its already shot.Im wondering if anyone has any ideas what can be causing my code 44 and car problem.All i know is the code stands for lean exhaust or oxygen sensor lean.Can i test my 02 sensor somehow or does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks guys,Al in NJ
Now the car trouble im having.My cars been running like sh@t and the idles all messed up it seems and sometimes it clears up but the SES lighjt comes on the the car runs real rough and almost stalls.Sometimes the car didnt wanna start too and i replaced the Fuel pump relay cause i was getting a code 54 and code 44,so that eliminated the starting problem.But it still runs like sh@t and i have the idle problem and stalling problem,and still the code 44.I checked and found no vacuum leaks at all.The oxygen sensor is pretty new,but its not the best from what i know so maybe its already shot.Im wondering if anyone has any ideas what can be causing my code 44 and car problem.All i know is the code stands for lean exhaust or oxygen sensor lean.Can i test my 02 sensor somehow or does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks guys,Al in NJ 
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 52
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From: Ocala/Gainesville FL
Don't know if this would help. But I had the same thing Code 44 in a Maro of mine. After going through the gamut of things ended up being the Fuel Pump being bad. After replacing that it was all good. Hate to be the bearer of news like that. But it might be the Fuel Pump causing the 44 Lean Exhaust. Mine was running lean as hell wanting to stall bucking like a bronco and just generally sh$tty running.
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86,
If you haven't replaced the O2 sensor in the last 30,000 miles or so, you should probably consider it. The "44" may not be cured by it, but it's an easy way to assure the sensor is signalling the ECM correctly. The typical failure mode of an oxygen sensor is that the signal weakens, indicating to the ECM that the exhaust is lean.
You can test the output voltage of the sensor with a DMM. Connect your meter in parallel with the ECM connection, and expect to see between 200mV to 800mV with the engine running and hot. Another relatively easy "go/no-go" test can be done if you want to remove the sensor. connect your voltmeter leads to the sensor lead and ground (sensor case), then expose the sensor tip to the flame of a propane torch. Propane burns fairly cleanly, and should produce a good signal at the sensor. The voltage should rise to at least 800mV within about thirty seconds, then quickly return to less than 100mV when the flame is removed. Remember, use propane, not accetylene.
The lean error code may also be due to low fuel pressure, and the easiest way to verify that is to test the pressure at the Schrader valve on the right fuel rail. If fuel pressure is low, start checking the pump and regulator. If pressure is correct, look at the AIR system diverter valve, inspect everything for vacuum leaks again (don't forget the brake booster and PCV system), make sure the MAF and intake ductwork is not leaking (including the plastic air resonator box on the radiator), verift the correct TPS voltage, and finally test or inspect the injectors.
After the oxygen sensor, the fuel pressure is probably the next thing to test, since that will give you the information you'll need to proceed.
If you haven't replaced the O2 sensor in the last 30,000 miles or so, you should probably consider it. The "44" may not be cured by it, but it's an easy way to assure the sensor is signalling the ECM correctly. The typical failure mode of an oxygen sensor is that the signal weakens, indicating to the ECM that the exhaust is lean.
You can test the output voltage of the sensor with a DMM. Connect your meter in parallel with the ECM connection, and expect to see between 200mV to 800mV with the engine running and hot. Another relatively easy "go/no-go" test can be done if you want to remove the sensor. connect your voltmeter leads to the sensor lead and ground (sensor case), then expose the sensor tip to the flame of a propane torch. Propane burns fairly cleanly, and should produce a good signal at the sensor. The voltage should rise to at least 800mV within about thirty seconds, then quickly return to less than 100mV when the flame is removed. Remember, use propane, not accetylene.
The lean error code may also be due to low fuel pressure, and the easiest way to verify that is to test the pressure at the Schrader valve on the right fuel rail. If fuel pressure is low, start checking the pump and regulator. If pressure is correct, look at the AIR system diverter valve, inspect everything for vacuum leaks again (don't forget the brake booster and PCV system), make sure the MAF and intake ductwork is not leaking (including the plastic air resonator box on the radiator), verift the correct TPS voltage, and finally test or inspect the injectors.
After the oxygen sensor, the fuel pressure is probably the next thing to test, since that will give you the information you'll need to proceed.
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