Finally got my new to me car running last night.
It runs, but it runs like crap and it rattled pretty bad. But I think the rattle is in the Valvetrain.
My questions is the best way to adjust the valves.
I know that you have to know what type of lifter the cam uses Hyd or Solid. I doubt this car has a solid but I am assuming the only correct way for me to know is to pull the intake and check a lifter?
I know that the adjusting the valves is different on Hyd vs solid so I am thinking I don't have a choice but to pull the intake. Was hoping not to but if I do i will. Planned to swap to the new Dist I already have anyway.

The other thing I am curious on is this car has Roller rockers on it. I am not sure of brand. But I think I understand how they adjust.by turning the nut on the polylock to adjust then turn the setscrew to tighten. But once that is done I have also seen some say to turn the not itself 1/4 turn more with out the Allen wrench on the setscrew to lock them down solid. Is this the right way to do it?

The next question is the sequence of adjusting the valves.
Its been a long long time since I have done this. and I know there are a lot of different ways to do it. With the car running and without running etc.
But If I remember right the way I used to do it was
Bring it to TDC on #1
Adjust Exhaust on 1,3,4,8 Intake on 1,2,5,7
Rotate 360 degrees to bring it to TDC on #6
Adjust Exhaust 2,5,6,7 Intake on 3,4,6,8

Anyone have any thoughts or help they could give if I am heading in the right direction.

 

That stuuuuupid Chilton's method of "adjusting" the rockers is pitiful. Don't even. It barely works well enough for a flat-rater in a hurry to make book time on a car with the weeniest possible stock cam; ANY kind of aftermarket cam, and it's HOPELESS. Way too many valves will be partially open at all times, and you'll NEVER get it to shut up.

Best way to get them close, is to observe the valves as you turn the engine by hand. Find one that is reaching peak opening as you turn it. When that one is at peak open, the same valve 4 cyls away in the firing order (18436572), is ready to be adjusted. So for example if you see the #6 intake fully open, then you can adjust the #1 intake. Once you find one valve that way, turn the engine in exact 90° increments, and adjust the next cyl in the firing order, then another 90°, and so on, until you have all 8 of that kind of valve set. Then look for a valve of the other kind, and do all 8 of those the same way. Adjust each one until you just barely can't jigle the push rod loosely up and down, then add your desired preload. DO NOT use the "twist the push rod" non-method; you'll get them too tight EVERY TIME. All you want to do is take up the free play in the push rod. I'd suggest about a half-turn of preload to start with, until you get real good at doing it; after you've done 20 or 30 full engine adjustments and learned how to get it RIGHT the FIRST TIME EVERY TIME, you might be ready to use a little more finesse on it. Meanwhile, don't outsmart yourself; just make sure you're doing it RIGHT, as that's MUCH more important than splitting hairs over how much preload to use.

With Polylocks, tighten the Allen with a ratchet and Allen bit, holding the nut in the right spot with a 5/8" box wrench on the nut; then tighten the nut and Allen together SLIGHTLY to lock it in place. BE CAREFUL, as it's easy to split the Polylock in half by tightening it too much that way. Don't tighten them more than about 1/32 of a turn like that, otherwise you'll get them SO tight that you'll DESTROY stuff.

Best way to adjust them by far though, is to do it with the engine running. Loosen each one until the valve starts to clatter, then tighten it until it just barely shuts up; only tighten the Allen to hold it while you go through all 16 like that. Do it as quickly as possible because it'll make a mess. Then turn the engine off, add preload to each, and tighten them as described; and drive to the quarter car wash to clean up all the oil.

 

FIRST YOU NEED TO KNOW IF IT'S HYDRAULIC OR SOLID, don't guess.
I haven't adjusted valves with the engine running in decades. EOIC method is best, look at any camshaft manufacturers site and it will explain it all. Don't try skipping around, use a remote starter switch and do 1 cylinder at a time down each bank so you know they are right.

 

EOIC is the next best method to the one I posted. It means, you adjust a cyl's int valve when the exh is just beginning to open (exh opening, EO) and adjust the exh when the int is just reaching fully closed (int closing, IC). It doesn't put the lobe absolutely dead on ***** accurate perfect at zero lift like the method I gave you butt it's PLENTY close enough 99.999% of the time or more. Either that, or the one I gave, takes about the same effort; each requires running the engine through at least 4 full rotations of the crank by hand; and either can be done in 90° increments of crank rotation following the firing order, for each type of valve. (all 8 int or exh, then all 8 of the other)

Odds of the cam being a solid are probably pretty low. Not that it can't be, just, not likely at all. Try adjusting it like it's a hydraulic, first; if the engine then won't run, it's a solid, and will require a bit more effort.

 

I agree that the odds of it being a solid are low but adjust a solid like a hydraulic with preload and you'll possibly be bending valves.

 

Highly unlikely you have a solid cam in a third gen unless a previous owner did a cam swap.

When adjusting rockers, the EOIC method is best. Hydraulic lifters always have a preload on them. To set the preload, back off the rocker on the closed valve. Wait about 30 seconds for the lifter to reset. Adjust the rocker until it just makes slight contact with the pushrod and the valve, The rocker should not wiggle once it makes contact. You are now at zero lash. Tighten the rocker nut 1/2 turn more and tighten the polylock. That sets the lifter at around 0.030" of prelash. It doesn't need to be exact. plus or minus about 0.010" is normal and won't affect how a hydraulic lifter works but the closer to 0.030" is best. Don't worry if you can still rotate the pushrod after that point. The lifter preload will bleed off since the engine is not running to pump it back up. DO NOT tighten the rocker any more! Proceed to adjust all the other rockers until all 16 are done. Once all are adjusted, there should be roughly the same amount or adjustment on the rockers by looking at how much rocker stud is sticking up past the nut. Your valves are now adjusted for a hydraulic lifter engine. If it still makes noise, you have other issues.

 

Here is a chart for you: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ml#post6163605