Hey,

I wanted to throw out this question to the group and see what the consensus is.....

My 89 RS, 5 Speed, 305 TBI, with T-tops has been sitting on jack stands stored (inside) for about 2 years. I am getting the bug to get her back on the road and wanted to get your feebcak on the proper procedure to start her up, or preparing to start her up.

She has about 104K on the original engine. Thanks for your help!

 

1. Change all fluids... oil, coolant, diff... everything. Most fluids loose their good qualities, separate, or become less efficient when not used.

2. Dump the gas in the tank... you can remove the fuel line at the engine to dump into a bucket, and then run the pump untill there's about 1 gallon in the tank. Don't run it dry... you'll mess up the pump.

3. Check all flexible lines for cracks stiffness or other problems... this includes the plug wires.

The fuel filter should be replaced after about 100 miles... it'll be full of crap.

All the o-rings, gaskets etc... haven't been lubricated in 2 years. You need to look and listen for leaks when the engine is first started.

I'm sure there are some other people with ideas... I've probably forgotten something.

 

Imbalance,

Welcome aboard!

It's very good that you asked instead of just starting and driving the vehicle.

Sleeper covered the basics pretty well. There are a few things you should do before even starting it. Get some supplies on hand before you start, like oil and a filter, a grease gun, some fresh fuel, and whatever other fluids you may need.


1. Keep it on the stands for now. Rotate the front and rear wheels by hand several revolutions. The front and rear wheel bearings haven't been moved (and lubriucated) for a couple of years, and it would be good to distribute some grease with no load on them before you hit the streets. don't be surprised if you get some noise from rusty brake rotors and drums;

2. Charge the battery fully. Undervoltage from cranking is not only hard on the starter, but may complicate the tasks of the ECM and ignition systems;

3. Top off all fluids - don't bother changing them just yet;

4. Lightly work the brakes for several strokes, gradually increasing the pressure applied. You don't want to blow any caliper or cylinder seals;

5. Remove the spark plugs, or as many as you can easily. Inject a bit of clean engine oil in each cylinder, then turn the engine with the spark plugs removed. This should distribute some oil on the cylinder walls and help get the rings freed up a bit;

6. Install the plugs, make sure you have some fresh fuel on hand, then start the engine with the car still on the stands if possible;

7. Allow the engine to run a few minutes, then shut it off. You may have generated quite a bit of heat from lack of lubrication and any rust in the cylinders being scraped away by the rings. Check all fluids again and look for leaks. Inspect the hoses and belts;

8. Once everything is satisfactory, start the engine again. Allow it to reach a normal operating temperature while watching for leaks, overheating, and excessive smoking (there should be at least a little);

9. Once the coolant starts to get warm and the transmission oil begins to get some heat, run the transmission through the ranges, then release the clutch in 1st and allow the rear wheels to spin up slowly to distribute the gear oil. Drag the brakes a little to help clean off any rust on the drums/rotors. Stop the rear wheels and try reverse to redistribute the gear oil;

10. Stop the rear wheels, allow the engine to reach full operating temperature, then shut it off. Drain the hot engine oil and replace the oil and filter. Lubricate the steering and front suspension to drive out the old, dried grease. Operate the steering with the vehicle on the stands to distribute the fresh grease under zero load. Check again for any leaks.

11. Once everything is satisfactory, check the tire pressure and lower the vehicle. Move the vehicle out, and start driving very slowly and under as little load as possible. The clutch is likely to generate some heat as it cleans the rust off the flywheel, and the front brakes are likely to be noisy as they clean off the rortors. Try the brakes "early and often" (sound familiar?) to make sure they clean up and will stop the vehicle.

12. Drive to your favorite service station and top off the tank with fresh fuel. Gasohol would be great for this fill-up, and being in Chi-town you may not have a choice, anyway. Check the tire pressure and fill as necessary. Recheck the brake and clutch fluid levels. Drive around slowly and get the transmission and differential good and warm before you hit the Kennedy.

13. Take your ride home, check everything again for leaks, then resume normal driving and maintenance. Plan on changing the fuel filter soon, and don't be surprized if you generate a few error codes in the process. Some of those sensors haven't been moved or used for two years. Pay attention to the exhaust system, since the cat converter and muffler could have rotted out a bit while sitting.

Good luck - I'm sure you'll be back.

 

Hey thanks! I appreciate assistance.

 

brought her home last weekend! Running great, added Tayor 8mm wires, Accell Pugs (gapped @ .45), open Element, MSD Coil, Dist Cap & Rotor.

been fixing all those little things like map lights, cigarette lighter, armrests, new hood struts new hatch struts, turned the rotors, 180 thermostat.....

Next, I am preppring her for the paint shop. Next will be Eibach pro springs, KYb struts & Shocks and the PST front suspension rebuild kit....pics to come!

Thanks again for all the help!!!!