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TPI module problems? Need Help

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Old May 29, 2004 | 05:27 PM
  #1  
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From: Phoenix
Car: 1985 K5 Blazer
Engine: 350 crate w/TPI MAF
Transmission: 700R4/NP208
TPI module problems? Need Help

I am having a problem with no starts. I swapped in TPI and had it since January. Within the last 3 months I have been having problems with my ignition parts.

First I blew a pickup coil.
Then I blew out the module.

Since the first module went out I have been having the problems. The first module was a Delco. The replacements have been Borg Warner parts.

About once every 3 weeks (or less) my truck won't start. If I change the module it starts up just fine. The wierd part is if I leave the truck alone for a few hours and don't change the module it usually starts. WTF?

Today I tired changing the EST and the ECM before I replaced the module. Niether worked. Thanks


I am running '88 MAF TPI in my 85 GMC Jimmy. Its ignition is stock. MSD 8.5 wires, MSD cap & rotor, painless wiring harness.

Harley
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Old May 29, 2004 | 11:59 PM
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From: houston
Car: 83 POS monte carlo 2015 chevy P/U
Engine: 92 5.7 tpi 5.3
Transmission: 700r4 6L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.42 too high
did you replace the ignition coil when you replaced the module?
when you put the module in, do you clean the distributor where the module sits & then use that little plastic container of grease
that should always come with it?

i have had too many problems with aftermarket ignition parts
on customer's cars, with the ignition,.. if it isn't delco, then it doesn't go on.

Last edited by DENN_SHAH; May 30, 2004 at 12:02 AM.
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Old May 30, 2004 | 12:31 AM
  #3  
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From: Phoenix
Car: 1985 K5 Blazer
Engine: 350 crate w/TPI MAF
Transmission: 700R4/NP208
I used the dielectric grease supplied, and I cleaned the old stuff off. I am thinking about buying Delco but the warranty on the Borg Warner stuff is getting abused.

I don't want to spend the money on a Delco module, because if that isn't the problem I will be out that money since I don't think it will have a warranty. I want to make sure I get the problem solved (if it isn't the module) first.

Harley
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Old May 30, 2004 | 04:24 PM
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jmd
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From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Check with the place you buy AC Delco stuff and ask what the warranty is. I don't believe it's "zero."

PS, where ya at in Phx? Pavillions was nice last night.

-Matthew
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Old May 30, 2004 | 05:03 PM
  #5  
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From: Phoenix
Car: 1985 K5 Blazer
Engine: 350 crate w/TPI MAF
Transmission: 700R4/NP208
I think the only place I can get Delco ignition parts is GM Dealers directly. I live at 7st & McDowell road roughly. So central phoenix. I might make my roomate cruise his 66 chevy pickup out to the Pavillions next weekend.

Harley
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Old Jun 1, 2004 | 08:24 PM
  #6  
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From: Phoenix
Car: 1985 K5 Blazer
Engine: 350 crate w/TPI MAF
Transmission: 700R4/NP208
TTT?
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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 09:43 PM
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From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
With the "few hours" thing, I'd say you're dealing with heat. I know on my cars, the removal of the cowl seal that goes against the hood helps them run cooler. Dunno on your vehicle though.

Pavillions in 2 weekends; see SouthWest forum.
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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 10:52 PM
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From: Phoenix
Car: 1985 K5 Blazer
Engine: 350 crate w/TPI MAF
Transmission: 700R4/NP208
The thing is it has done it when the truck hasn't been run yet that day and is still cold. About 2 weeks ago I went out to go somewhere about 12 noon. It wouldn't start. I got home later that day (used another car) and it started up at around 5pm.

It also does it more often after it has had time to cool off somewhat. Like an hour or two.
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 12:27 AM
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From: houston
Car: 83 POS monte carlo 2015 chevy P/U
Engine: 92 5.7 tpi 5.3
Transmission: 700r4 6L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.42 too high
this is something i remember seeing only once & it was along time ago. it may not apply, but it seems like it fits your problem.
the distributor housing wasn't grounding to the block as it should have & i think was causing a feed back which would kill the module.
try this, both with it running & when it won't start with the key on. with a dvm set to read DC voltage, put the negative lead of the dvm to the negative post on the battery, then put the positive lead of the dvm to the distributor housing, it should read 0.5 or less, if it reads more, move the positive lead of the dvm to the engine & see what you get, if it's much lower than what you got from the distributor, say you read around 0.3 on the motor, then i would run a ground wire from the distributor housing to the engine. 0.3 is the maximum voltage drop i accept on a running motor with the head lights turned on from battery negative to the block.
also check from the battery negative to the motor while cranking & see what kind of voltage drop you get.
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