Do I need my EGR valve? The car is a 1990 GTA with the 5.7 tpi, air pump is removed, it has long tube headers (non EGR), and no cat. I am getting ready to replace the intake manifold gasket and wanted to know so that I could get a new one or block off the hole. Is it even functioning without the rest of the AIR stuff on there? BTW no emission testing here.

 

You can remove the EGR, reprogram the ECM, and you should have no operational problems. However, you may notice a slight loss of fuel mileage and power due to the increased incidence of detonation at cruise, generally hotter heads and chambers, and higher exhaust oxygen. Then again, if you are reprogramming, you might be able to compensate for some of that.

The EGR works independently of the air injection system. One doesn't require the other.

 

this puzzles me i was always told that i would gain power if i removed the EGR??? you said it would make you lose power? what are to +'s and -'s of removing it?

 

As vader said the EGR helps mileage (went up 3-4 miles a gallon after putting it off for a year and a half) need that with gas hitting $2.15 for 87 octane here. It also helps with controlling detonation under part / moderate throttle during cruise (during WOT operation the ECM does not command EGR to allow for maximum performance). Also in my vehicle (82 Elcamino) it lowered the cruising water temp abouot 5º F due to the lower chamber temps.

 

I don't really want to remove it, especially if I would have to reprogram the computer. I was just not sure if it was functioning with non EGR headers.

Thanks

 

Your stock headers are non-EGR. The EGR system should be working properly.

If it's a street car don't change it.

 

That is a fairly common misconception, most likely propagated by those with little or no experience in engine control systems. The same can apply to removing the air injection systems, PCV, evaporative emissions controls, catalytic converters, installing cold thermostats, underdrive sheaves, and numerous other “performance improvements” that are frequently touted as being effective.

Years of making mistakes by listening to such hearsay, acting accordingly, and being disappointed by the results can be avoided by a little education and research. “Back in the day”, we didn’t have such an internet. Our “internet” was the group that hung around the speed shops, tracks, pits, and swap meets. The people that hung around the drive-ins and cruises and spoke of “3/4 race cams” and “fuelie heads” were suspected as being little more than casual chatters (or as RB would say, “Monkey-Spankers”). Just like today, one needed to be cautious about which advice to believe, and which to dismiss. You who might be just beginning are very fortunate to have information so easily accessible.

As Eric and Garcia indicated, for a street vehicle, you will want to keep it for best overall operation. If you are only driving the vehicle 1,320 feet at a time on weekends, you don't need it, and like Eric said, it isn't functional at WOT anyway (good call).

That is, unless you are using that "3/4 race cam" and are only opening the throttles the appropriate 75% to match the valve train setup.