first off, i did a search and didnt find what i was lookin for so.... question here is.. dry kit or wet kit in my 89 iroc. And with a dry kit would it be a bolt on kit or would i need to modify my injectors and comuter to make up for the added nitrous? Or a wet kit? I can get a dry kit for cheap and would i put this in front or after the MAF? thanks guys

 

do a wet kit it is almost a direct bolt on. Depending in your accessory brackets the only thing you will need to modify will be enough clearance for the tps sensor. Drilling mounting holes is the hardest part. a dry will make lean conditions that really do hurt an engine wet is generally a little safer. I know you are posting in this section because you wanted knowledge directly for tpi, but you'll still find all of that info in the power adder section. Hope I helped. Post your decisions and what you do. I fyou talked about it on this web site you need to do it, or something equally as good. Don't tease us.

 

With a stock 89 TPI calibration putting a 40*F reading on the CTS should give you more than enough added fuel to cover a 100hp dry shot. I have instructions on how to make the CTS tricker on my website if you're interested.

 

Go with the dry kit and be sure to inject the NO2 before the MAF. You have a MAF car, so when the MAF sees nitrious, the MAF sees a cooler charge coming in and then the ECM adds fuel.

Another point, install an AFPR. Adjust the AFPR for WOT runs with nitrious on. It would be best to get on a chassis dyno to tune in the best fuel pressure.

Dry kits are less expensive and much easier to install. I'm running a dry kit on my '99 Camaro SS, it works great, I can feel it kick in.

 

Doc, my husband likes dry systems as well, but you are running an LS1 which handles the fueling via the MAF quite differently than his 165 ECM does. Once ibwsjerry's ECM reaches the limit of MAF table six it will be using the PE vs RPM for fueling.
Upping the fuel pressure enough will compensate but the BLMs may bottom out trying to correct for it because it's a full-time change.
Your LS1 is much easier for a dry system because the MAF table range is so large.
I'm just saying the ECM/PCMs work differently, but you have given him another option to consider.

I've seen some of the older TPI dry systems apply bottle pressure to the FPR to spike the pressure up, but I don't think I'd want to do it that way.

 

Yea, I know the two car's MAFs work differently,,, I am "burning" Eproms for my '87 and flashing new programs onto the '99 PCM.

You are correct in everthing that you said above except about the BLMs. The BLMs at WOT are set to 128 in a 3rd gen MAF car. So you will never get any fuel correction stuff going on. Also, any well modified 3rd gem MAF car will overwelm (sp) the MAF. These MAFs will read a max of 255 gms/sec,,, alot of us are above that value at WOT.

I bought the same kit that I have on my '99 for my '87. I like the way it works. For the proper AFR at WOT, I can either figure out a new fuel pressure for NO2, or I can get more fuel via the Eprom. I will be using my scanner to determine this. I think that I will simply figure out the proper increase in fuel pressure that I will need when running NO2.

 

well guys, i think im ordering the wet plate kit from NOS for it. Now when i run the 150 shot, should my fuel system be enough for it or do i need to run bigger injectors / fuel pump / colder plugs? Or my buddy has a dry Cold Fussion kit on his '02 ta that hes gonna sell for $300. Should i save the $100 and get his kit or spend the extra $100 and get the wet plate for it?? Thats for the info, real interesting.

 

With either a fuel pump is a better choice, colder plugs is up to you first check and see how they are, and injectors will not be needed on the wet. Wet hinting towards the addditional added fuel.