How is every one tonight...i have had better days..any way is it hard too change a fuel regulator, for a 306 tpi..i mean liek what all is invalved on it..do i have too take the tpi apart too do this or what....

 

the fuel press regulator is located under the plenum, you have to remove the plenum to replace the regulator. once you can see the top of it, you can remove those 6 "security" torx screws and replace it with a new one.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...46141_-1_11175

that one comes with the plenum gaskets, adjustable regulator, and "securtiy" torx tool to remove the old one.

 

okay so shoul di get new gaskits for the plenum or juss reuse the one son it cause juss replaced then well this march will be a year so i replaced them about 6-7 mons. ago so they should be okay right....

 

ya they will...i gave that link as a referral because the kit has everything you need...including the most important part; the special tool!
if you have a way of getting the old regulator off already and if you have a replacement regulator, then you dont need that kit. but i havent found an adjustable regulator that doesnt come with the gaskets.

 

has anyone used this style regulator
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
do you have to have the tool it comes with to remove it

 

Yes, you need the special tool bit to remove the factory fuel pressure regulator. You will reuse the small screws when installing the new AFPR.

The BBK unit is fine. I used the Crane unit for awhile, now I am using the Holley. The Holley unit is great because fuel pressure changes are very easy to make, just turn the wheel, no tools required to adjust the fuel pressure.

Of course, you must buy a fuel pressure gauge.

 

Hey! Did someone call my name?

Actually, you can get the security Torx bits at almost any decent hardware store any more. Even Sears sells a set including the T-10 security bit.

 

holy **** really?...honestly ive looked everywhere, i couldnt find it. but i live in canada, i guess the stuff they sell is different.

 

Simpson-Sears may have a different part numbering series (9-47486), but in the lower 48 you can find it here:

Craftsman Bit Set

Vermont/American, Wiha, S-K (and all the Danaher companies), and by now, probably even Snap-On, all have similar sets.

 

You can buy the security torx screw bits at Canadian Tire.

 

my question is, is that when you do the regulator, do you take the runners off from the manifold and leave it all as an assembly, is that where the new gaskets go, between the manifold and the runners, not between the runners and the middle section right

 

yes, what you do is loosen the passenger side runner, then remove the plenum. replace the plenum gaskets and thats it. the reason you loosen your runner is because its a tight fit to get the plenum off and it needs a little wiggle room.

 

so ilaberate on this some more, bolts hold the runners down on the manifold, and bolts connect the runners to the plenum, which is the center section in between the runners, when you loosen it, what end are u loosening on the runner, manifold or the upper end, what will be left there, will the driver side runner still be bolted up, and where do the gaskets go, pictures would help out a lot since i am not near my car this week

 

im sry i cant help you with pics because i dont have a camera, but ill do my best to explain. start by loosening the bolts that bolt the right runners to the intake manifold, you can see all the screws except one, its behind the runner and bolted from the manifold to the runners. after you loosen those, remove all the bolts for the plenum, there are 6 per side, remove those 12 bolts. then you can disconnect your vacuum lines and PCV hose to the throddle body. now you can lift up the plenum a bit and remove the wire for the MAT sensor (under the plenum at the back). then you can lift it up a bit put it to the side or get something to prop it up so it stays out of your way. then replace the regulator and when you re-install the plenum, those gaskets will replace the old ones, they have little clips so they stay in the plenum so theres no alignment issues.

 

so you are removing the six bolts on each side, leaving the runners bolted up to the manifold at the bottom, and then you are just removing the plenum(the center section that the throttle body bolts up to) and then change the reg. and then the gaskets go in between the middle section,plenum, and the runners on each side.

 

You'll want to get it to look like this:



Except you won't need to remove the fuel rails. The left (driver side) runner set can remain in place. The right side runner set needs to be loosened at least to allow the plenum to be removed, and more importantly, properly positioned for assembly with the new, uncompressed gaskets.

DON'T use a cheapo Torx bit to remove the runner bolts, or you'll be among the group of everyone else who has posted a thread like "Stupid ******$&%^&¿¥ Torx Bolts are Stripped!" Get a good quality Torx Plus bit and you should have no problems. Also get a small jar or tube of antiseize compound, and a can of penetrating oil (not WD-40) and soak the bolts a few days before you begin.

 

haha Vader those bolts aint cheap either, i payd 16 buks for 2 new ones because i didnt use anti-sieze. ill never make that mistake again.

 

well if it only comes with two gaskets, where do they do, is there no gaskets between where the runners bolt up against the manifold