hey how would i go about fixing this problem, from what i see from the codes its my MAF so i tried some electric cleeaner on the maf and codes 32,33 and 36 went away but code 34 remains(maf sensor-signal voltage or frequency is low during engine cruise) is there a way to fix this, all help will be appriciated thanks!

 

Wow! You hit the ECM jackpot! The TPI Trifecta. You should play the lottery.

Can the engine idle four minutes or more after it is warmed up without setting the error code?

If you have a voltmeter, you can measure the MAF output voltage directly at the MAF with the engine idling. Expect about 700mV with a 305, 850-900mV with a 350. If the voltage is significantly lower than that, you may have an intake tract leak, including the EGR, brake power booster, CCV system, or cracks in the intake ductwork between the MAF and throttle body.

 

hey thanks Vader ill check for the output on the Maf where do i attach the multi-meter and ill also go over the upper sectopn of the block and check everything for leaks. I cleaned up all the connections on the throttle body and the inside of the maf with electric spray and 3 codes did go away 34 is the only 1 that still shows up, i have my MAF unplugged right now but thanks for the help i appriciate it

 

Backprobe the MAF connector at the 'C' and either 'A' or 'B' terminals as a ground. The 'C' terminal should have a dark green wire.

Run the engine and read the voltage:

 

I halvent checked the voltage yet but i did find a vacume leak there was a hole in 1 of the lines under the pleneum. i fixed that and my problem still exists , other than checking what you said is there any other possibilities as to why code 34 keeps showing up. Also the car is idleing like sh*t jumps up and down . it runs ok when i give it gas but its very rich to the point i can see fuel sprays on the ground as its on. i really need help with this, its my daily driver and i really need this car running 100%

 

what function on the multi-meter tests mv?

 

Hey i got a multi meter, i wasn't sure which setting to put it at so i tested it with all of them, right now i have the positive connected to the green wire and the negative connected to what i think is terminal A. either i am getting very low numbers because from what i have, to what the numbers should be that were posted by Vader are extremely different. which is the proper setting for the multi-meter and if i was doing it right and the numbers were low, what do i need in order to fix my problem. I would appreciate all the help i can get thanks.

 

i think i found my problem i have an intake tract leak at the bottom of my intake runners did a little test on them by spraying intake cleaner around the connections and each time i did the car revved up high and 6 of the 8 runners, i did figure out the volt meter and at almost WOT i read 950 on the meter

 

That is a really low number. 950mV is about normal at idle RPM. The MAF is only reading a small percentage of intake air in that case. That sounds like a fairly significant leak.

 

i did have a big leak, i was leaking on 6 of the 8 runners, so i changed the gaskets now no leak, but now i pulled code 32, 33 and 34 again so im really confused, at 1 point i would start the car it would take few tries then it would fire up and shoot to 1500 or so rpm then die, now its just idleing between 450 and 1000rpm and i hear this pinging sound aswell every 5 or so seconds, but when i give it gas its ok but still reads low on the multi meter at about half throttle it reads what it should at idle? what should i do?!?!?!?

 

i had all those problems and then some (33,34,36). your cleaning of the MAF was a good call. clean the connector too, and use some electrically conductive grease (don't go crazy, just ensure a good connection). then replace your burnoff relay. on your firewall on the drivers side there will be 3 relays. if yours is still factory like mine, it will be the middle one. its $13 at advanced autoparts. hell, replace them all they are cheap and do wear with age. your code 33,34 and 36 will (99%sure) go away with the replacement of this relay.

its been 3 weeks and i have yet to see another engine code.. and she's runnin like a champ.


ps, change your coolant temp sensor too. $12 at advanced and if its messed up will really screw with your startup and a/f mix

 

hey thanks for the post, i have pulled my relays out and all 3 appear to have pins on them that look as if their burned, i did have a problem with 1 of these relays once before with my camaro but only 1 needed to be changed, im just gonna change all 3, i dont get engine codes anymore but still runs like **** and does the same thing it did even when the codes were there, i had to order the relays but ill have them tommorow ill post back with the resualts

 

if they are that bad, be sure to clean the connectors well, and use a little of that conductive grease on them too for good contact. running like crap could be the coolant temp sensor, and possibly the iac servo... if that thing gets cranky it makes your idle do all sorts of crazy stuff. what i have done in the past is just yank the whole throttle body off, clean the hell out of it, clean and lube the iac, bypass the tb coolant channel, re do all your seals and at least you will be starting from a fresh slate. don't forget to re do your iac and tps calibrations after that.

 

whenever i remove the trottle body do i have to re-do the calibrations, i have never heard of thisi have had the throttle body off quite few times since this problem has been happening, would adjusting the Iac and TPS do the car good and maybe, just maybe make the car idle properly, would this explain it running rich as well or is that the maf.

 

yes, that would definitely help, especially if you have had them completely apart a few times. look for the instructions in the thirdgen.org tech articles. running rich could be attributed to the coolant temperature sensor, located in the front of the engine, above the waterpump. mine was running rich, and giving me trouble starting... had to turn it over a bunch before it would kick in... replaced that sensor and i was good to go.

basically, the maf very rarely goes bad... very typically its either a connection issue (old dirty connector) or a relay issue. the running rich is controlled by the computer, which runs off a few sensors to make its air/fuel mix decisions... and the most common one to fail (that causes a rich condition) is the coolant temp sensor. the throttle position sensor is another one, and if not calibrated sends an incorrect signal to the computer, also confusing it. the relays and sensor i have mentioned all run under 15 dollars a piece and should be quick for ya to test.

i am a fan of fix it right, cheap, the first time. the maf is about 200, and if you replaced it, i can almost guarantee nothing will change.

Let me know how it goes, i hate seein folks frustrated with their cars and love to help. i love these damn machines... i have fun figuring all this crap out. hell, just yesterday i found out on my GTA that if you disconnect the battery and the stereo security locks, to unlock it you need to hit the mute button on the steering wheel.

 

hey thanks for the fast reply, im going to be making trips to the parts store tommorow so i may just ask what it costs for a new coolent temp sensor, i have a repair manual and it even says in here that if its bad it can affect the way the entire fuel injection system works which may be causing these problems aswell. im just wondering should i replace the burnoff relay only or replace all of them or try the coolent sensor first, the onld relays do have some metal prongs that look yellow/ golden colour to then and 2 reg steel, all 3 have this is this a normal thing cuz if it is i wont get the relays. i jsut dont want to buy things unless i need them, ill pull out this temp sensor tonite and see how much a new one is in the mornng thx again, once i can get the car to idle ok, then ill adjust the tps and iac, out of curiosity tho could this expalin why my maf signal voltage is low or is that like a relay, vacume leak it still sounds like i have a supercharger and the loudest point is at my air filter

 

the coolant sensor cost me 12 dollars last week, and the relay cost me 13. both at advanced auto parts (partsamerica.com). if you are only going to buy one or two things, do the burnoff relay and the coolant sensor. then be sure to at least calibrate your tps.