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Long cranking time when car is hot, Fuel pump dying?

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Old Sep 12, 2001 | 10:50 PM
  #1  
IROC315's Avatar
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From: Hurricane, WV
Car: 01 Z28 and 89 Iroc
Engine: ls1 fti 3600,S60 w/3:73 gears
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3:23
Long cranking time when car is hot, Fuel pump dying?

When my car is warm and I turn it off and try to restart, it takes about 4 or 5 cranks and a little gas pedal to get it started. I know I have some leaking injectors but would a worn pump do this? I am planning on getting new injectors soon. I get good pressure and it starts fine when cold. It has new plugs,wires and a new coil. The car has 113k so I figure its time to replace the pump even if it is not fully dead.
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Old Sep 12, 2001 | 11:07 PM
  #2  
IROCET's Avatar
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From: Columbus, Ohio, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z (Sold)
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 700R4
Mine does the same thing, but I replced my pump not too long ago so I don't know what it is. Actually, it has always done that and like I tell my friends, it may sound bad, but it always starts! It wouldn't hurt to check into the pump though.

Matt

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88 IROC-Z -- 350 L-98, 700R4, Flowmaster, Edelbrock Headers, Catco Cat, K&N, MAF Sceens Removed, Airfoil, March Pullies, Comp Cams Magnum 1.6 Roller Rockers, Bosch Platinum Plugs, Accel 8.8 mm Wires, MSD 6AL, Hypertech Cap & Coil, Hypertech Chip, Hotchkis Strut Tower Brace
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Old Sep 12, 2001 | 11:20 PM
  #3  
88 IROC BOB's Avatar
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From: Essex, Ontario, Canada
I can only offer 3 words of advice---Get New Injectors.
I had the same problem for years and after putting in new injectors it starts right up every time.
Your leaking injector is the reason it doesn't start because it is flooding the engine.

Bob

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350 TPI, 700R4(rebuilt), K&N's, MSD 6AL, Headers, Flowmaster, 160* stat, airfoil, MAF screens cut out. 13.88 @ 101.18 mph
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Old Sep 13, 2001 | 02:47 AM
  #4  
long&low
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If you have leaking injectors they are flooding it and giving it part throttle puts it into clear flood mode to stop dumping fuel, same as a flooded engine with a carb.
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Old Sep 13, 2001 | 06:02 AM
  #5  
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From: Fort Wayne, Indiana, U.S.A.
Car: CTS-V & 89 Z28 vortech charged
Engine: LS6 & 383 charged stroker
Transmission: 6-speed & 5 speed
My Iroc had a no start problem when hot but I had just replaced the fuel injectors w/accell 24lb inj. when hot the inj requires more electrical power than was being provided, cold was no problem due to less resistance. You might want to Ohm check your injectors before pulling them and also check them when hot to compare should be around 12 ohms I think. The new Accells read 14.4 ohms. To cure my problem I had to run a new power source from batt for injs. When you pull injs you can also do plenum mods. You will want to get injectors cleaned if one or two check bad and replace those. Look in phone book for a diesel inj service company we have on in town here and it cost me 20 to have them look them over. Good Luck.
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Old Sep 13, 2001 | 05:18 PM
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From: Hurricane, WV
Car: 01 Z28 and 89 Iroc
Engine: ls1 fti 3600,S60 w/3:73 gears
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3:23
The leaking injectors would also explain the sudden drop in fuel economy also. A lot of gas is being dumped on the motor raw and not being used. A few weeks back, I got the dreaded code 32. My EGR is messed up. It was idling rough in gear. That's what mislead me to think it was the fuel pump also. I'll have to decide on replacing all the injectors or just the faulty ones. The way I see it, it would only be a matter of time before the other ones went bad also. I will fix the EGR while I have it apart. I have a spare off a TBI engine that I hope will work.
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Old Sep 13, 2001 | 06:11 PM
  #7  
Rob P's Avatar
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From: Key West, Florida!
Car: 89RSconvtZZ4TPI
Engine: ZZ4TPI
Transmission: 700R4 TRIPP TRANNY
I ran into a hot no start condition. Turns out one of the injectors was going to ground and stealing voltage from the other 7 injectors, causing a no start. I'd check the injectors, probably your culprit.

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