Ok I really need u guys help I want to change my 350 tpi to a 383 stroker tpi. But dnt know where to start so please help me out. On what part to buy ect money is not a option. I just need a idea where to start.

 

Do you want a TQ motor or a Hi reving screamer what are you using for a track car a DD do you have pass smog and where.

Is a Auto or Manual trans what gears is run on pump gas or race gas.

You said dont worry about money LOL you see it cost I have over $5000.00 in mine and it a DD.

 

First, ask yourself what your goal is in terms of how much power you want to make, then realize that your 350 will get you there. There is no reason to stroke it, especially with TPI. Heads + cam + stall (if auto) + tune, and you will get where you want to go with your 350....

 

IMO stock tpi will choke a 350. That can be helped with some upgrades or intake swap to aftermarket one. At the very least you'll be looking at exhaust and probably new injectors (22 lb ones only good to a point). Like stated what are your plans for the car. Are you planning on forced induction, nitorus, or natural? All that affects the build.

I have over $400 in internal fasteners in mine. I think at one point I figured I had 3k+ in the heads and camshaft drivetrain. It still needs tuned and etc and it's just my weekend street play toy.

 

Yea im a DD and I live in CA so it have to pass the smog test or i can alway do it illegal. basically I just like power and the sound of the 383 with the TPI look.

It will be a auto trans with a 3.42 or 3.72 rearend on 91 octane pump gas.
but for a DD what would be the best way to go?

 

Forge is very nice but cost a lot for a DD that Revs 5500 to 5800 Ish every blue moon Hiper piston and cast crank will work for a Cam I using a LT4 Hot cam some will tell you it be undercamed but ti will pass smog.

I using flat top pistons and 62 cc head that works out ot be 10.7 to 1 compression I running pump gas 91 octain.

A good set of heads theres all diffrent price range my TF 195 work fine for me make sure you get heads that have valve springs that will ahndle the lift you want to run if you planning to use 1.6 rocker arms figure that in to you heads.

i also using Comp cams Ultra Magnum steel full roller rocker arm not cheep but I dont have to worry about them breaking on me once you button the motor up you dont have to worry about them again.

Aluminum ones are good but steel have less failure rate stamped steel works but to get the most power out the motor full roller is the way to go pluss less heat.

As for the block I now using a roller block for a cople reasons #1 I cam use a OEM type roller cam and lifter cost a lot less than a reto fit roller cam system.

Once again less heat you can run a more agressive cam and get away with it you dont have use oil addtive like you should for a flat tappet cam.

No break in needed for a roller cam if you want to ever change the cam out you can reuse the same liftters not with a flat tappet cam.


Bigger the motor is a big cam will act like a smaller cam thayts wht nice about the LT4 Hot cam it pass smog easy the LT$ OEM is cheep a custom cam can start costing some big bucks.

With the OEM type roller block and liftters you can use Comp cams stock harden push rods $30.000 for a set compaied $100.00 for custom lenght stuff.

Just because the cost more for a DD dont mean thats the best bang for the buck.

Rule of thumb longer the runner works more for high rpm type power.

My first motor was a mild built 355 with the same TF heads I wished I went with the 180 heads but the 383 pulls more air so I think the 195 work fine for I want the car to do.

You need to up grade the intake system and injectors, thats go for the exhaust I running full leinght headers it tricky to get by smog with them some shop will over look them I have all the smog injection hooked up.

I also running a 3 way single cat with Cat back system.
As for the rear rear I have 307 good for DD not reving to high at 70 MPH and good off the line grunt.

As fro the Trans a 700R4 built 2500 stall converter also what cam you going to use is a big deal what stall to use.

Dont forget the Computer chip if you going with long tube headers you mite run into problems getting pass smog but long tube headers where you going pick up some usable power.

If run long tube headres you need to use a heated O2 sender trust me on this one I had to wire the hot lead and ground in easy.


My Motor lets say $5500.00 trans $2000.00 Chip $250.00 custom, Headers set up $1500.00 just throwing a figure at you $8750.00 are you ready to spend that kind of money.

This if you do all the labor YOUR SELF.

The stock 220 H/P 330 TQ motor got the car point A to piont B it had 141000 miles on it, the 355 340 H/P 380TQ it was better it was OK The motor went bad after 3500 Miles the 383 for me is the way to go 435 H/P 485 Tq.

I get 25 MPG on the HWY at 70 MPH and 13 City but if you put you foot in it is gallons per Mile LOL.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/sout...-dyno-day.html

you're local so if you have a chance stop by and check out what these guys are doing. You might just change your mind out of a 383.

 

The opposite
Long runner = bottom end torque ( and no revs )
Short runner = top end Hp ( and high revs )

A edumacation
Read
http://xtremecarzone.com.au/index.php?showtopic=386

 

This month of car craft has a budget 355 (3k dollar or so) build for tpi (just shy of 300 hp @ motor that's why its a budget build). That might get some ideas going too. Either way tpi is restrictive there is a reason these were torque monsters back in the day and dead after 5k rpms, the 22 lb injectors are said to only support 300hp or so, and stock manifolds design/flow horrible. In that same issue they said inner diameter was only 1.55" at the flange.

 

Would it be to much to ask if you can provide me a list of parts you brought to make your 383 stroker, it will be much easier for me and the project im doing. im going to replace everything from botton to top.
I did found a 383 Stroker TPI online Here the link:
http://www.enginefactory.com/383_350tpi.htm

Do you think its a good Price and I did hear that Edelbrock 60cc Chambercylinder heads are not that great and to achieve 400 horse I have to spend around 9,400.

 

Is yours a TPI or carb?

 

Currently its a 950 carb setup on victor jr (still needs tuned as it ran like crap last year). There wouldn't be a point in me running 210 cc heads and solid roller setup on a stock tpi. My 350 with tpi is still on a stand in my garage (Needs freshened up with gaskets and etc since it has 100k miles on it). It made 211 rwhp and 300+ rwtq on the dyno about 10 years back or so with plain bolt ons.

 

Thats pricey are you going to use your old short block.

 

I would stay clear of there.
They are charging $550 for a 58mm TB you can buy for $330 elsewhere
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BBK-1544/

How much mark up are they putting on other parts?

There are far better deals to be had
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...Q5fAccessories

Totally wrong setup for emissions but example of engine with better quality parts ( AFR heads ,forged pistons and crank ; not cast like in engine you link )
The 2K price difference would allow you to buy intake of choice and still be ahead

 

Build your own this way you can pass smog and you know what in the motor.

Not what some place what to throw it it as you know you have to play the Ca games build it for your needs.

I did lot looking around you dont need a 58mm TB for what we are going to use the car for save your money put it somewere else or give to me I will send you my Pay Pal account Info.

I very hapy with my setup.