If you go on youtube and type in chubbylovedumpster and click my channel, one of my vids are maf readings.. Can anyone tell me if the maf is bad? Im using an iphone so i cant post a link.

 

I'm interested to know, how did you hook up the voltmeter to the MAF. Meaning, which wires did you probed...?

 

I hooked up one to a ground and then hooked up the other to the 5 volt wire (which i believe is the signal wire) it looks green.

 

THanks man....I think the harness in my car has been changed, so all the wires are white.....Do you know to which pin that green wire leeds to on the MAF connection..?

By the way, how do you probe the wires? Do you just poke them with the Vmeter probes or you use different kind of method...?

 

The second pin on the left tward the front bumper. Stab pins with key in the on position to find the 5v reference wire.. I think its green

 

I used volt meter probes

 

Thanks man, I will try messing with this on the weekend, are you still having problems with the readings?

 

My issue is that i dont know if those reading are in spec or not.did you get the same results?

 

I will only have time to mess with it in the weekend, but as far as I remember, the readings should be around 0.5v at idle and 4.5v at WOT, so I guess when you play with the throttle, anything in between would be fine. Did you notice any issues with the car that led you to test the maf sensor, or you just wanted to do a routine check...?

 

My car is impossible to drive when cold.. It hunts and pops if you try to drive it until warm.. Then when you drive it and push the clutch in to coast to a light, it drops to 5-400 rpm and its horrible on gas

 

I have similar issues acompanied by a code 34. it starts fine when cold, but when I start driving it even after I let it warm for couple minutes, I would make a turn when the clutch is pressed and the idle would drop to 500-400 immidetly and would die unless I press the gas. Once it dies, I get code 34. It happened to me before, but ever since I descreened it, I did not have that issue for a while, but it started to come back recently. I noticed the idle drops mostly and wants to die when I play with the steereing wheel.

 

Me too but i dont have a cel.. Mine runs for 5 seconds, then starts to hunt

 

Did you try running the car with the MAF disconnected?? I will try it in the weekend. If the cars runs better, then either the MAF is bad, or the electrical connections are bad.

 

It runs smoother BUT i cant drive it more then 1/3 throttle. Doesnt hunt. Even when warm i cant drive it more then 1/3 throttle.. Thats with the maf disconnected.

 

So you think the MAF is bad? cause even if you get readings within specs, the sensor might still be bad or on its way down...I would tell you to try a different MAF, but those things are expensive, unless you can get one from an auto parts store and return it after couple of days if you still have the same issues. A year ago when I had the same issues, I order a maf from advanced auto parts, it was the kind with curcuit board not the hot wire. When I put it on, I had all bunch of other issues caused by this maf, so I ended up retuning it and got full refund, but I haven't tried another sensor ever since.

 

Well i replaced the tps and iac.. Idk what other sensors could be a possible cause.. I dont think i have a vac leak big enough to cause this. Also replaced the coolsnt sensor for the ecu.

 

I guess the only thing left to do is replacing the MAF....You can try replacing the MAF relays, but I dought they are the problem.

 

Where are they located?

 

on the firewall, there will be 3 relays, 1 for the fuel pump and the 2 others are for the maf...It is on the driver side next to the brake booster.

 

Okay, thanks. How can i tell if they are bad?

 

Well, one is the burnoff relay, and one is a relay that supplies current to the MAF. You can check the burnoff operation by running the car, and turning it off, then quickly look inside the MAF, you will see the wire glows, if it does, the relay is good, if it doesn't it might be bad or poor electrical connection. The second relay supplies current to the MAF, since you already tested the MAF for readings, I think it safe to say that this relay is good, if you wouldn't see any current while testing the maf it would mean that the relay is bad.

 

Thx man, were getting pelted with snow and getting through sandy has taken a toll on my ability to work on my car lol. Hopefully tomorrow i can look. My burnoff is probably bad.. But i cleaned the sensor n it still ran bad. So i dont think that relay would really matter

 

Yea, thats why I said unlikely when I mentioned the relays.
By the way, my sympathies on what you guys are going through in NJ, I have 2 uncles that live in different parts of NJ, so I know what you are going through....I'm surprised you still have your mind set working on the car with all this mess..)

 

My third gen is the only thing i have that makes me happy. Aside from my girl so i want it to be running great. Ive been cleaning up and working so much that i just need to do something for me ya know? And thank you.

 

Yea, I'm with you on this one, sometimes I would mess around with mine just to get a break from stuff.

 

Yeah thats exactly what i do.. This hunting thing makes me want to rip hairs out though. Couple months ago i installed a pro 5.0.. And now i took out the center console and passenger seat because i need new ones lol. Got any spare parts? Lol

 

I have some stuff, but not something you would need probably, I got a pair od arm rest thats about it for interiror....By the way, how's the pro 5.0, I've been thinking about getting one myself...?

 

It feels like a more firmer shift but i tried fiddling with the bump stops and i cant hit the sweet spot so i have that lose. Other then that i wedged rubber in between the male and female parts where they meet and the thing is beautiful.. Highly recommended..

 

I heard there is a lot of vibration unless you use some kind of gasket...Where did you got it by the way?

 

I went on ebay. The seller was supposedly hawks.. I dont hear a vibration with it. You hear gear wind and in 4th from 1600-2000 rpm you feel a bad vibration, but its nothing.

 

Yea, thats what most people say, though there is a gasket that is being sold that claims to eliminate that vibration...

 

Thats cool, ive never heard of it. The vibration is so faint that it doesnt bother me much. Your runnin the stock shifter im guessing?

 

yes, and it was getting pretty annoying missing 3rd gear at the track, no serious damage done though

 

Pro5.0 has a no miss 3rd

 

I know, thats one of the main reason people are getting it as a replacement