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So I see these 383 blocks (clearanced), etc... Says 1996 to 2000 Gen 1 (non LT1 Blocks)
Can these be used for my TPI ?
I see one is 4.004, 4.030, 4.040, 4.060, etc...
Why not? Sounds like a Vortec block. So might need different starter bolts? Might not have all the timing cover bolt holes, no mechanical fuel pump provisions, 1pc rms... Otherwise its still pretty much an oldschool chevy.
So, Vortec block...
A "vortec" block isn't really special, unless I had Vortec heads / intake, I can use NON Vortec stuff, right?
Different starter bolts, so should be able to use the starter I have...
I can get a new proper timing belt cover for it and be ok???
It does have mechanical fuel pump provisions... I assume there is a block off plate, since I'm sticking with TPI.
Will the "provision" hurt / block anything I need?
Pretty much. The question is why Summit lists them as 96-2000. The only reasons I can think of are above and not at all an issue. Probably ought to call Summit to find out why they list such a narrow year range.
You're better off with a 350 IMO. The 383's have a long stroke - they don't rev and they scuff pistons. Many people I've talked to say they don't last like the 350 does. Also the benefits are mostly low end torque, which really isn't that useful on the TPI setup that is already heavy on torque. Most people are trying to shed torque and gain HP. The 383 will gain very little in peak HP compared to a 355, etc. Less than 10 HP typically.
I'm not sure about these "cheap" stroker kits though. I'm sure you are right (as you usually are) about quality parts, but OP is talking about a summit branded block here. What kind of stroker kit do you have to buy that has proper rods and pistons for longevity?
In theory, at some point the 355 will pass up the 383 at higher RPM due to friction losses. That's why they make crazy torque at low RPM (more than is really street-able with a TPI setup), but fall off at high RPM. Piston speeds are high with that much stroke and so losses due to friction grow at a higher rate than with a shorter stroke.
I wouldnt worry about the block being summit but would rather see you find a local machine shop to do the machining, with your pistons and rods to verify best fitment and assembly.
I would talk to summit on the machining but its probably done ok and can be fine finished at a local shop, such as final hone job
i dont recommend rotating kits as much as just buying components individually. But most decent shelf 6” rods are good and shelf pistons are good stuff. I would go forged pistons. Thats just me. If all the clearances are set right and ring seal is good from good hone and break in you shouldnt experience any issues.
When I have looked into it, it just seemed overly expensive for what you would get out of it. Other than bragging rights, you have to buy all new internals, when it's fairly easy to get 400 HP and 400 Torque out of an L31 350 with stock crank, rods, and pistons. Seems like a lot of cost for not all that much of a gain. If I had to choose between 383 or roller cam, I would go with the roller cam.
My machinist was able to finish drilling block for fuel pump rod. gotta look at the block some take the plastic Vortec timing covers - others dont and accept conventional SBC timing covers
My machinist was able to finish drilling block for fuel pump rod. gotta look at the block some take the plastic Vortec timing covers - others dont and accept conventional SBC timing covers
They are interchangeable - at least they were on mine. I swapped the plastic vortec covers for standard SBC timing and oil pan, etc. Mine is a 98 block.
When I have looked into it, it just seemed overly expensive for what you would get out of it. Other than bragging rights, you have to buy all new internals, when it's fairly easy to get 400 HP and 400 Torque out of an L31 350 with stock crank, rods, and pistons. Seems like a lot of cost for not all that much of a gain. If I had to choose between 383 or roller cam, I would go with the roller cam.
GD
Can you explain whats required to get that much HP out of an L31 please? Although I am only after 350ish
I am debating an L31 or the 350 HO for replacing my 350 motor running a TPI System.
I just recently built a 383 with a 2000 Vortec 350 engine (GMC 3500). when you bring the engine to the machine shop they usually clearance everything you will need as far as that goes. For the rotating assembly, its got an Eagle setup (Ill look up part #'s later for you). slightly better than stock summit heads with ls6 valve springs with a comp cams 503 cam.
As for the mechanical fuel pump, GM just filled in the casting for it so its pretty much just 2 extra thread holes in the side of the block. If you wanna see some bits and clips of the engine, punch "Ratherbeboating10" into the youtube search>
I have a stroker kit for 305 to 334, I'm pretty sure it has the 5.7" rods... I would just need to get the right 350/383 stroker pistons to get the compression I want...
The 1996-2000 blocks are 880 blocks. Still a 350 block. They are slightly different. Mechanical fuel pump blocked off, Maybe a 4 bolt main and the starter bolt holes might be different. You can bolt on any Small Block Chevy Gen1 Heads.
I turned my 880 block to a 388ci with 6in rods. And I rev the engine to 6500rpms because I have a Miniram.
Disadvantage - it also puts the oil control rings through the wristpin bore. An additional support ring is needed to bridge the gap.
eh some might not call that a disadvantage. It works fine that way. Additional parts and assembly for this but still works fine
my boosted motor had oil ring supports and was fine in all areas that matter imo. Blowby was normal, oil consumption was non existent. 5000 miles or so. Now over the course of 30,000 miles i cant say lol. But who puts that many miles on a performance motor
12-02-2018, 02:45 PM
