Pablo

iTrader: (1)

My car is not fast (see sig) yet, the rear has given me nothing but problems.

I installed a powertrax and soon after I broke my first axle shaft (due to wheelhop no doubt which seems to be no better after purchasing every single part a person can to rid themselves of it- I think the powertrax has something to do with the wheelhop)
then the rear started whining some
then I put a few more passes on it and I broke another axle shaft.

Last time at the track I dumped the clutch in the burnout box and heard an extremely loud BOOM from the rear. I thought I broke another axle but twas not the case.
Since then the powertrax had been majorly acting up.
Fast forward to last saturday, I take a buddy for a spin at WOT and i nail second gear. Loud bang, and all of the sudden i hear this awful grinding sound from the rear and the rpms are rising like its in neutral.

I barely make it home as it goes in and out of this neutral and grinding state to normal drive.

When it comes down to it I dont trust this rear at all. I especially dont dig the part where the axle and wheel comes out of the rear housing and the car falls on the track minus said wheel. Not a very safe thing. Why am I extremely nervous when I pull up to the line and am getting ready to dump the clutch... like im walking the plank on a pirate ship nervous

I wonder what I am doing wrong, i seem to see alot of cars in the 11s with 10 bolt 7.5s

The only major thing is this wheelhop bastard that I cant seem to shake.

Another thing i notice is that all those cars are autos. Is it pretty much impossible to have a 10 bolt survive with a stick?

yet another thing, this rear has 26 spline axles.

I run drag radials too

So I was all set on buying a posi unit, some 4.10s, some moser alloy 28 spline axles and a girdle. The price is pretty crappy though, looks like im gonna be spending near a grand once every last bit is accounted for.

Then I started reading past posts and it looks like im headed for certain doom yet again with this setup

Is anyone out there running a stick car with a rear end setup like this with drag radials or better?

I plan on making the car faster of course like any gearhead would. I will be leaving soon to far away lands and i dont know for how long. Lets just say awhile. I dont think ill be running faster than low 12s in the next three months. I need a quick fix.

Is it time for me to just suck it up and get raped by one of the ford 9" thieves.. i mean.. vendors?

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Clutch dumps with sticky tires are breaking that thing easy. Have you done anything to the suspension such as lower control arms and the LCA relocation brackets? That might help out with the wheel hop. Autos are easier on parts off the line since it's not a huge shock to everything like dumping a clutch.

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

i have done everything to the rear suspension possible using the stock configuration. You name it, I have it. With the exception of some really fancy race parts of course.

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

btw how do you like the "no slip" locker?

I have the old school "performance locker"

i remember the no slip version was just coming out and supposed to be very smooth. The one i have is/was a real bitch and made the car *** to drive

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

I actually broke it last month I think not going to bother replacing it. Saving up for a 9 inch to swap in which I'm hoping will happen this month or early next. Before it broke it was pretty nice. None of the clunking around corners, just released and locked back when you got going straight again unless you were under power. Really sucks having an open rear again

F-BIRD'88

What ever rear end you end up with you might want to look into a AirLift air bag kit.

Allows you to preload the right side and take the slack out of the suspension. Also dampens the springs tendency to osulate (like a shock absorber) lessens or eliminates wheel hop.

Have used this on a few cars with coil spring rear suspensions and it really works well.

Wheel hop is really hard on rear end components, much more than smooth applyed power with bite.

The kit for a F body car is not expensive. allow full adjustment of rear ride height, spring rate, lower control arm geometry, and some adjustment of pinion angle and
torque arm angle in the driveline by adjusting the air pressure. try different pressures and right left bias and you'll soon see what the car likes.

88Camaro350

I would get a 12 bolt or 9'' if I could afford one.

However I feel sorry for the poor t5...it will be next.

Riley's35089rs+

adjustable torque arm???

SSC

I have the no slip unit in my car. Ive not had any problems with a couple years of abuse, Ive ran slicks quite a few times with no problems. If I raced more I'd be looking for somthing a tad bit stronger then a nine bolt or ten bolt.

Joshua

I had the same problem with a powertrax + 7.5. This was behind a S10/SB350 automatic. I had a lot of wheel hop so I set up a steering stabilzer mounted on the axle to the connecting to the frame. That took care of that but when I switched from shorty headers to long tube headers that's when axles started to snap.

Never once was the powertrax unit itself ever hurt but EVERYTHING around it broke at one time or another. If I had just used a regular posi I don't think I would have has near as many problems. Instead of spending money on that I just built up an 8.5 with an eaton posi.

The posi hooks up just as well as the powertrax ever did. The only major difference is that with the posi the truck sometimes gets sideways. With the powertrax it always went straight.

Fast-Tony

Thimk? dumping the clutch what are you doing wrong? let the clutch off at the lowest rpm you need to get the car off the line 3500 -4000? whatever the max rpm with the least wheel spin, have you ever heard of traction control? this gets the vehicle off the starting line with the least traction loss and saved parts, next check out your rpm at the end of the race track or run is it your optimum in drive? (1 to 1) if not lowering your rear gear set so it matches your tach red line at the end of the track will help greatly? Your rear axle was designed for passerger vehicle use so a few upgrades are in line, Aluminum girdle rear axle cover, "C" clip eliminator kit, synthetic lube, and most importantly maybe some taction bars, this should take the performance you are looking for and keep the axles in the housing, at this point the rear axle parts should stay in place and now the next weak link will show up? clutch? trans? drive shaft" backing off a little can go a long way, wheel hop can break the best of parts, try it and post your results?

fast-tony

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

this is an old post I have since installed a 9" with 3.89 gears

Im almost done with the install actually, should be on the road tomorrow ill let you know how things go. Turns out the powertrax died, i didnt even bother with an autopsy.

The 9" is so much beefier I wonder why i didnt save up for one sooner.

If you have a manual tranny I highly suggest going with a 9 inch like the one i bought from quickperformance, 1800 to my door.

Pablo

iTrader: (1)

btw i have every mod for the rear suspension possible including the airbag kit

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

I've bought a 9 inch too since my last post in here lol. Going to start putting it in tomorrow since it's been raining off and on last couple days. Little over 1500 to the door minus the center section which I got from a friend cheap.