Flywheel advice
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From: Northwest SC
Car: 91 RS
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LSD
Flywheel advice
I am doing a T56 swap on my car and I have noticed that steel LT1 flywheels aren't a whoel lot cheaper than aluminum ones. I was wondering if any one has an aluminum one, if there worth the extra money, and how well do they hold up over time?
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I was also wondering it i can use my T5 clutch hydraulics with a T56
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I was also wondering it i can use my T5 clutch hydraulics with a T56
Last edited by Mdenz3; Jan 7, 2007 at 01:39 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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When I put a T-56 in my car, I used the steel flywheel. It's REALLY REALLY HEAVY. Like, very noticeably so, in terms of engine RPM rate of change.
I kind of wish I'd tried an aluminum one. I don't suspect there'd be any real longevity problems; after all, the surface for the clutch is still steel.
If you do, let us know how it works out.
No the T-5 hydraulics will not work for a T-56. The line is most of a foot too short. Other than that, they might.
I kind of wish I'd tried an aluminum one. I don't suspect there'd be any real longevity problems; after all, the surface for the clutch is still steel.
If you do, let us know how it works out.
No the T-5 hydraulics will not work for a T-56. The line is most of a foot too short. Other than that, they might.
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From: Northwest SC
Car: 91 RS
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LSD
I've checked and the steel flywheels are around 33lbs the fidanza aluminum one is 12.5lbs. which seems to me to be enough difference to make a considerable differnce.
Joined: Sep 2005
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Car: Yes
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I'd be inclined to agree....
I took out the L69 one, at around 16 lbs; and put in the Centerforce 700107. The engine takes seemingly FOREVER both to speed up and to slow down. I don't really like it too much. It doesn't feel "snappy" like it did before.
I took out the L69 one, at around 16 lbs; and put in the Centerforce 700107. The engine takes seemingly FOREVER both to speed up and to slow down. I don't really like it too much. It doesn't feel "snappy" like it did before.
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Reno, NV
Car: 1982 Z28 & 1967 RR/SS 396
Engine: ZZ383 & 375hp 396
Transmission: T56 & factory TH400
Axle/Gears: 9" ford & 12 bolt 4.10
Well if your going to use an aluminum flywheel you better not have a stock motor. Yes when it is just sitting there and you free rev it it will be super snappy, but if your motor does not have a lot of power you will not have the inertia to get the car going. I have used both and they do have thier applications for each. Traditionally a very stout street motor or all out race motor will use an aluminum flywheel. Putting one on a stock motor usually means that your going to have to give it a bunch of gas and slip the clutch to get er going.
The purpose of an aluminum flywheel is to reduce tire spin off of the starting line or out of a turn in a road coarse car.
Several companies make lightened steel flywheels so that give you the best of both worlds. Im my 82Z which has a ZZ383 I used an aftermarket SFI steel flywheel which was lightned and it weighs in at about 18.5 lbs.
The purpose of an aluminum flywheel is to reduce tire spin off of the starting line or out of a turn in a road coarse car.
Several companies make lightened steel flywheels so that give you the best of both worlds. Im my 82Z which has a ZZ383 I used an aftermarket SFI steel flywheel which was lightned and it weighs in at about 18.5 lbs.
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From: Northwest SC
Car: 91 RS
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LSD
Thats a good point, i checked the stock flywheel i was going to use with the T5 and it weighs 22.5lbs, i'll have to look and see if i can find one between the stock steel and the Fidanza aluminum, unfortunately thiers not a lot of choices for the LT1 T56 w/ 1 piece main seal.
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From: Memphis, TN
Car: 1989 Camaro RS
Engine: LT1 from '96 Corvette
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 diff
On your hydraulics, the master will work but the slave will not. You'll need to get a new hydraulic line b/c the T5 is too short. Helpful tip is to save the fittings that go into your master and slave and just discard the plastic tubing. Then you can find some new tubing to slide over those fittings. But if you lose the fittings, you'll end up back at the dealer, and they will only sell you the entire unit (master + slave + line + reservior) for about $150-$200.
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From: Northwest SC
Car: 91 RS
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 LSD
ok thanks but hopefully it will be a non issue the T56 i'm looking at comes with the slave and master, and thats where i got my T5 hyrdualic setup which is why i was hoping to reuse it. LOL thanks for the help guys
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