online170

I have a 71-Abody thats slated to recieve a T56 sometime pending finances. I wouldnt bother with the conversion speedo stuff, id just get an aftermarket electronic speedo.

You can even find them used. Even if the pulses are different from trans to speedo, the dakota box could correct that. Again if you find both items used, you could have it done for around $150 id imagine.

cuisinartvette

Thanks..got the original speedo wanna keep the dash looking stock. Youll love the 6 speed btw good luck.

honesly, I know how fast Im going by what gear/rpm Im just one of those weirdos that likes everything to work wether I use it or not even the glovebox light lol.

online170

Youre stuck with the option you originally listed then and the $300 price tag unfortunately.

The programmable speedos are about $200, the regular ones are about $150.

IROCUDREW

iTrader: (6)

I have 4th gen pedals . To install them i have to cut the gas pedal bracket off correct right? And drill holes according to fitment. I would keep the 3rd gen gas pedal untouched correct?

cuisinartvette

If youre going to stick some rpm to your motor might wanna consider one of these


https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...950-post1.html

86blackiroc

iTrader: (12)

Correct. Slot the holes to match your brake booster, install the pedals to it and the firewall, then mark the firewall for drilling. It should line up with dimples in the firewall.

Stonehenge

iTrader: (3)

Gary, Do you have an email address or a way to contact you. I too am about to do a T56 swap in my 87 IROC with 5.7 Needs a tranny so I figured this be a good time to do the swap (plus my girlfriend can't drive stick so maybe NOW she'll stop asking me to use my car on casual Fridays to go to work!!!) I tried clicking on your name, didn't work.. Stone (Culpeper, VA)

L695speed

I know I posted up a couple months back regarding a swap, but at that point it was only in the design stage. However, I've got my hands on a T56 now. So its going in.
I want to keep my third gen pedals, (i found the mod somewhere on how to make it work). But the question is, should I go straight for a Tickmaster clutch MC or can I use the stock T56 MC? If I can use the stock one easily then I'll go ahead and put that on the car now.

I'll need a speedo gear conversion, I know Allon (sp?) does them but does he require the trans to be shipped to him? Another idea I had was maybe Hanlon Motorsports in PA might do it for me. I don't know if they do or not.
I will also need to do something for the R switch I believe and the skip shift and R lockout. The T56 came out of a 97 Z28 with 91K miles on it.

The last question I can think off of the top of my head at the moment is, do I need to cut the hole for the shifter two inches longer, if so what about the stock five speed shift trim plate? My car is a bare shell so cutting and etc now is easily done.

I will be back with more questions that I can't think of right now. Thanks guys.

vbMike

iTrader: (2)

You can keep your thirdgen pedals and use the stock T56 master/slave cylinder. I believe there is a plastic or rubber bushing in the stock master cylinder linkage that needs to be removed in order for it to fit on the thirdgen pedals. No big deal though.

You can wire the reverse switch into the factory harness and the lockout into the break pedal. If you don't have the plug for the switch on the tranny you can order the pigtail from GM. I probably have the part number around here somewhere. The skip shift you can't utilize so you don't need to hook it up and it will be fine. I believe you need to cut the floor back 2" but I'm not sure since my car was an auto. You don't need to cut anything on the console though.

L695speed

Thanks, I'm searching, finding answers scattered everywhere. But I'm posting questions in one place. I guess the biggest question is do I want to shell out for Alloy to send me a modded tailhousing. I will need to get a clutch fork, shifter etc. The biggest thing I'm finding is most people are swapping autos for the T56. Not as many mentions of T5 to T56 details. I know people complain about the clutch engaging high with the third gen pedals, but in my experience you are not supposed to ride the clutch. My foot comes completely off the clutch pedal with every shift, no matter what I'm driving. So the high engagement might not bother me.

6speedIROC

iTrader: (3)

I ran the 3rd gen pedals for about 10 years and just switched to the 4th gen ones. It does make a noticeable difference with engagement (lower now) and also the control-ability of the clutch engagement.
You get a longer engagement zone with the 4th gen stuff, and you don't have to change the length of the actuator rod...
I also hacked off the 4th gen gas pedal and left the 3rd gen one in there.
I also measured the clutch pedal pivot location and pedal height between the 3rd and 4th gen stuff. There is surprisingly little geometry difference, but it does matter.

vbMike

iTrader: (2)

I'd say spend the money to get the tail housing modified. I originally was using the electrical to mechanical converter box but wasn't happy with it. The clutch pedal does engauge a bit on the high side but I don't think its a problem. I actually kind of like it that way. However, the pedal presure is a bit stiff but not that big of a deal.

If you want to build your own hydraulic setup this should eliminate the high/stiff pedal.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ic-clutch.html

vbMike

iTrader: (2)

I originally tried to install the 4th gen pedal set. However, the rod for the master cylinder did not line up with the stud on the clutch pedal. The rod was bent way over to the side and seemed like it was binding up. I installed the 3rd gen pedal set and everything lined up fine. I know plenty of people have used the 4th gen set without a problem so maybe it had something to do with the location of the hole I drilled for the master cylinder.

L695speed

Mike, I saw the pics of the bent rods with the fourth gen pedals, hence thinking if it all lines up good with the 3rd gen ones why not use em. I have the pedal set for the fourth gen but I didn't want to start drilling holes or messing around with the metal on the firewall to make it work. People have reported cracked firewalls after a while using the fourth gen pedals, another thing I want to avoid.

I did see that thread about using the cavailer slave cylinder, but I was iffy about doing that. But if it works no problem, I'll consider it. He says he used a 94 Z28 Clutch MC, I have one out of a 97. If the 97 is the same as the 94 then all I will need is the Cavailer slave cylinder. Doesn't seem too hard to do either. I'm working with a round file on the bushing in the MC filing it down til it slips onto the third gen clutch pedal. It didn't seem like popping out the bushing will do it, if you pop out the bushing the hole becomes too big.

The other reason for using the stock pedals....I want this thing to pass as bone stock. Meaning everything except the shifter and the speedo will be factory stock in the interior.

vbMike

iTrader: (2)

A 94 and 97 MC should be the same. I removed the bushing completly from my MC. Like you said, then it is too big. There is a plastic bushing that fits onto the 3rd gen clutch pedal stud and then the 4th gen MC will fit perfectly over that. Not sure where I got the plastic bushing though. I think it may have been on the pedal set when I bought it. You might be able to find the bushing in the self help section at Advanced Auto. I know I was missing the E clip that goes on the end of the stud to keep the MC rod from falling off. I picked up an E clip at the local hardware store for a few pennies. I may have got it from Advanced Auto though.

You can keep the stock speedo if you get the tail housing machined. I went with a hurst black handle shifter which accepts the stock black ball shift **** so my car still looks stock.

L695speed

Ok so I should just get the bushing thats in there now out completely. That will save me the time of filing it til it fits...still not a bad way to go about it. Also I will probably get the cavailer slave cylinder.

I'm keeping the stock speedo, just customizing it. I'll have it refaced and etc for 160 mph. The setup I'm putting in is more than capable of breaking 150. Always on the track of course.

Anyway, other than cutting two inches out of the floor, is there anything else I will need to do as far as modding what is there?

vbMike

iTrader: (2)

Well that's what I did. Your method should work too.

How exactly are you modifying the stock speedo to go to 160. I'd like to know more about that.

Other than cutting the floor it sounds like you have it figgured out.

L695speed

I noticed one thing about cutting the floor when I was out there taking preliminary measurements...you are dangerously close to taking out the support where the console bolts in completely. Two inches goes well into where that support is welded in. What did you guys do about that?

EDIT*** feel free to disregard that question I have got an answer.

(GYTR)-YAMI_SR

I am attempting to do the same project and install a vortec in the process. What did you do to wire up the reverse, and the nuetral saftey switch?

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Answers here.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...questions.html

falconman

so did you need a new driveshaft? I'm starting a 88 IROC 305 swap from a 700r4 and am not sure if I need a new driveshaft?

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

Nope same drive shaft works fine.

falconman

will the stock starter from a 700r4 work with the t56?

falconman

quick questions

so does the gasket on the master cylinder need to be perfect? it doesent seem like it cause it doesnt have anything going through it, and mine isn't in too gret of shape.

Also, what does the top switch on the clutch pedal go to? the white one that is cylindrical.

maddwg1982

OK i am going to be doing a swap here shortley on my 92 the motor going is is a 350 with 2 peice rear main seal and the t56 is out of a 95 z28 will i be able to use the flywheel off that motor that the tranny is coming out of instead of getting the centerforce flywheel? the guy is going to give me the fly will with buying the transmission from him

falconman

what is this connector for and what does it get wired to?

falconman

and with that... look what i just finished...





that was supposed to be the hardest part, right..?

MoJoe

iTrader: (5)

The black switch is the starter safety... Once you push down the clutch, turn the key and the engine will start. If you haven't already, extend the (big) wires (yellow and/or purple) from the auto shifter to this one.

The white switch is to disengage the cruise control. I haven't looked up the wiring lately, but I would expect it to run to one of the brake pedal switches too... Press either pedal, and the cruise will disengage.

-Joe

falconman

so I don't need to wire the white connector for it to run correctly?

MoJoe

iTrader: (5)

"Run correctly"... no.
"Automatically disengage your your cruise control, so you don't over-rev your engine"... yes.

falconman

so no cruise control for me until I figure out the wiring...gotcha

MoJoe

iTrader: (5)

That is the safer, fool proof choice. Or, you just have to manually disengage your CC before shifting gears... After all, how often will you be shifting with CC on?

Sutton

ok i have my t-56 ready to install next week. Do I need the SGI-5 boxs to make my speedo work in a 1982 trans am. I don't have an ECU. Just not sure if you only use the SGI-5 boxs on 85 and newer cars. I really don't know what I will need to make my speedo work.
My speedo cable use to go down to the cruise box and them from that to transsmission. I removed the cruise set up.

jreyes916

man im thinking of doing the same but to my 89 camaro

Sutton

ok just found this box. For $352.00
I called them they said this will work in my car. Does anyone know if these are any good?

http://www.abbott-tach.com/Cable%20X.html

AnotherfastIROC

I just contacted them about that box, and purchased it. It's a great box. If you do a search you'll see some complaints about them jumping and being sluggish, however that is the older model that they have discontinued. From what i understand having spoken to them about this unit is the older units used a 8 slot encoder ring, so it was not very good at encoding slow speeds or at responding quickly and sccurately. The Current units they are selling are now utilizing a 30 slot encoder ring, which reacts Dramatically faster and is more accurate. I am very pleased with it over all. it keeps pace on my car with no problems. I am running a 355, 8.5:1 CR with 441 Ported, pocketed and oversized valves, a stage 2 Blower cam from Com Cams and a 168 Camden Supercharger, so it's a pretty quick car. Just my .02.

Sutton

Wow thats great. Good to hear some feedback on it. I think this is what I am going to try as well.
Where did you mount the box?

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Thank you for doing this thread, Online 170. I'm going to read it all, since I am putting a T56 into my car, with my LT1 swap!

Can't wait to relax and read this whole thread.

3rdGenMess

NEW USER ALERT!!! HELP NEEDED when you did the swap did you have vibration issues???...I completed the swap bolted everything up, turned the car over and the "shake rattle and roll" started...figured it was my engine so i payed it no mind...took it around the corner and the vibs only got worse! i came back home dropped the transmission, started the car and the vibs are gone...now my mechanical fuel pump is shot! wanna say its from the Vibration but i highly doubt just a bad coincidence....somebody help me PLEEEEASE!!! PS... a transmission tech told me that even though my driveshaft from my automatic fits fine there could still be balancing issues...when i had my 700r in there was none of this!

camaro1185

I would check the driveshaft first.

92camaroz28ss

iTrader: (1)

what kind of speeds are we talking about for these vibrations? you had the vibration at idle sitting still? or only while moving? i had some vibration issues and am still chasing some of them. after the driveshaft look at your trans mount. if its anything other then a factory rubber mount, see if there is some spacer under, i bought an energy suspension mount that had a spacer under it that was causing vibrations.

by the way, any other info you can provide about the vibration and when it happens will be useful

3rdGenMess

It vibrates sitting still and worse when moving...I visually inspected the drive shaft to be sure the balance metal was still welded on...I can't really try anything else because the transmission is still at the shop...trying to see if im overlooking anything, thought it was the flywheel or clocking of the pressure plate but rotation with all of that is smoother then when I had my auto in...just connecting the transmission causes havok

3rdGenMess

Oh yea I used the factory mount that came from my 700r...do u think the crossmember itself can cause that type of issue...I bought the one from hawksthirdgen I believe and had a slight hassle bolting it up. It seemed as it wasnt at the right angle to mount to the subframe???

92camaroz28ss

iTrader: (1)

might think about starting a thread to not hijack this one - but the 700r4 mount is slightly shorter and could possibly cause a vibration. at one point i had a link to a thread comparing different mounts but i dont think i do anymore

porkyzilla

iTrader: (1)

totally unrelated and off topic but if you look close on that bolt head you can tell someone used the wrong size socket when they took it off or torqued it, i wouldnt reuse those, just saying

3rdGenMess

Got mine off ebay for 45 bucks minus shipping, bolted right up no problems...

1 DwnCam

Mcleod Has those LT-1 Pressure Plate Bolts in stock now. Part Number is 1502.

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

http://www.mcleodracing.com/products...mcl?rsku=17657
They're $65 dollars and an absolute waste of $60+!

They're grade 5 from the factory, but grade 8 hardware store bolts are a nice strength upgrade and SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper!

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...-overview.html

My solution is in that parts list:

Clutch PP bolts (Ace hardware, 2" long, 3/8", 16 threads per inch, grade 8) - 6 @ $.69 = $4.14

Been on my 355 SBC/T56/9" Camaro for 2 years now no problem:

robguitargod1

iTrader: (4)

There's nothing special about that bolt at all. Torque is 27-30 lbft. I went 30 with thread locker.

It's not like that un-threaded shaft part is oversized, the threaded part is just shorter than the 2" part store bolts I'm using and they DO NOT bottom out. Believe me, I checked many times/many ways.

91camarosRS

iTrader: (5)

ok so i read as much as i could. will my 4gen pedals that i have work for a swap?