Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

reverse is grinding

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Old May 9, 2001 | 01:03 AM
  #1  
chrisandkristin's Avatar
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From: henderson NV USA
reverse is grinding

all the other gears are fine but rev everytime i go in to the gear it grinds right before i get in .,........what could be the cause of this .....any help would be great
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Old May 9, 2001 | 01:55 AM
  #2  
Stormshadow GTA's Avatar
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From: British Columbia,Canada
don't know problem but i have that problem,solve it by going into fifth first then reverse it.it lines up and goes in smooth.It works all the time for me


Not fifth then first then reverse.Fifth then reverse
------------------
1987 Trans AM GTA
305 5SPD
Hypertech airfoil
gutted maf
kn filter
High Flow Cat,
3"Walker pipe
Dynomax Super turbo Muffler
Custom Air Intake.

"Nothing To Fear all you see is my Rear".

[This message has been edited by Stormshadow GTA (edited May 08, 2001).]
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Old May 10, 2001 | 10:50 PM
  #3  
BigChevy342's Avatar
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From: Round Rock, Texas, U.S.A.
Yea thats what i do to, i dont know a whole lot about transmissions but I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the synchros.
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Old May 11, 2001 | 12:59 AM
  #4  
AntiVTEC's Avatar
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From: Union City, CA
Reason why it does that is because reverse doesnt have a syncro. Reverse is supposed to only be engaged while stopped. If you're rolling with the clutch down and do that 5th gear then reverse thing, u gotta do it fast otherwise the rolling motion of the car is gonna turn that reverse gear out of line again. Just experiment. What u also can do is just come to a stop, hold the clutch down for about 3 seconds to let the tranny stop and then pop that baby into reverse.

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85 2.8L Sport Coupe 5-speed.
Mods: Hpertech chip and powerstat, MSD 6A-L, Crane fireball coil, Dynomax hi-flow cat and catback system with a dynomax magnum race bullet muffler on the i-pipe, K&N filterchargers, Eibach and Tokiko springs/shocks setup, Global west sub frames, Suspension techniqs front and rear sway bars, and good ole 88 IROC wheels with Kumo Ecstas on em!
"I'm out to seek those pesky VTEC boys!" (don't get me wrong, I'm asian myself! hehe)

Wins: 2000 V6 Accord, 69 302 Mustang, 2000 Auto VR6 Jetta, 89 Toyota MR2, 90 Civic Si, 76 350 Camaro.
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Old May 11, 2001 | 02:38 PM
  #5  
gmanuel's Avatar
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From: Barrie On. Canada
I just replaced my clutch and now I have the same problem. I believe it is in the linkage. I am trying to figure out how to adjust it.
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Old May 14, 2001 | 10:53 PM
  #6  
Kingtal0n's Avatar
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From: Fl
Car: 5.3L turbo 2800lbs RWD
Engine: Prefer 3L Iron & 5.3L Aluminum
Transmission: 4l80e
Axle/Gears: 3.512
WHOA hold on there... I had the same damn problem and guess what.. my tranny blew up! yikes... now i have a Muncie 4-speed and it works fine, except when it warms up it wont go into gear or out of gear. The problem is when its hot the Clutch wont let go, and if the clutch doesnt disengage fully, the tranny wont stop the synchros so you can get it into gear. As for reverse Synchros, some trannys have em and some dont. My T-10 didnt, so i would stop it in 1st gear, then goto reverse (since first and reverse are the same gears, a little gear simply slides over it and reverse the spin) but my muncie HAS reverse synchros and they slip under the gear just fine to stop it from spinning. I tore the hell outa my super T-10 (BRAND NEW!) by running it with clutch / Pressure plate problems, if you guys have problems with ure trannys when they get hot or with the tranny walking forward even when the clutch is fully depressed BEWARE you have clutch or pressure plate problems, this can cause CLUSTER failure (you know, like $1300 problems) if you drive it like this for long! i found out the hard way!

------------------
1989 Camaro RS:
Shift Kit, Flowmaster AT, Gutted Cat, Man. Lockup, Foglights ;-)
15.4 @ 97 MPH
---------------------
1983 Iroc Z-28 Camaro:
355-CID (280 Duration; 225 @ .050; .466 Lift) 2.02/1.60 Valves In Aluminum Chevy Bowties(fully ported); 1.52:1 Ratio Roller Rocker arms; Forged Flat-tops w/ valve rel. Pistons;Performer RPM; 600 Double Pumper Holly w/ Jet extensions, Notched Floats, Titanium Needle & seat; Mallory Ignition; High torque mini starter; Carter 7 PSI race pump; MSD Billet Distributor; One peice stainless valves; 3.23 Borg Warner Posi; 4-speed Muncie M-22; etc....
I can go on for days.
12.4 @ 138 MPH
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Old Aug 12, 2003 | 08:15 PM
  #7  
ssullivan777's Avatar
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I got it too, after new clutch

Everything was great when I bought the car a couple of weeks ago.

It had a tiny bit of slippage if you doged it for a while, but other than that it was great.

I decided to put a clutch kit in and everything was ok but, after the install it would not shift at all.

So after many many questions, I was told to bleed the clutch, so I did.

All went to working but reverse. 1-5 are great but it will grind if you try to reverse. Turn off the motor, shift to reverse, start up everything is fine.


So, never the less, I have not Idea....
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Old Aug 12, 2003 | 08:45 PM
  #8  
TheGreatJ's Avatar
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
Your clutch is still dragging slightly. I'd be willing to bet the griding gets worse when it's been driven (i.e. backing into a parking space.) You may still have a little air in the hydros.
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Old Aug 13, 2003 | 01:04 AM
  #9  
Z town's Avatar
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From: P town, CA
MY CAR does that everytime i'm trying to reverse out from the parking lot and yes now i put in 5th before reverse,
man i though the last owner f*$ck it up
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Old Aug 13, 2003 | 01:06 AM
  #10  
25thanniversZ's Avatar
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From: Paris,Tx
as stated above reverse has no real syncro and putting it in 5th then back syncrizes it, because it grinds doesnt neccesserily mean its going out, if you notice driving other 5 speeds it is not at all that uncomon to have to pop it in 5th then reverse..might check out the pilot bearing
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Old Aug 13, 2003 | 07:32 AM
  #11  
ssullivan777's Avatar
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Update on my problem

I tried the 5th gear first the reverse this morning and it worked.

Also I noticed I had to floorboard the clutch to get a perfectly smooth shift, it goes in anyway but with a little oomf.

I think I need to bleed the hydros some more, there seems to a little air or something left.

I did bleed the hydros and it fixed my not shifting at all problem.

So,if you change your clutch, bleed the hydrolics!
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