crazeinc

I'm gonna have to run out and buy it since I don't have anything that comes even close...
What's the torque rating on that nut too?

I've noticed that the yoke does has some play in it and I'm hoping if I just tighten up this nut, it might solve my problem. Of course it won't, but it's worth a shot I guess.


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1990 GTA
-355 carb'd, nicely reworked '64 vette heads, 2500 stall, 4.10's, other small things.
-Alston SFC's, Eibach Pro-kit, Koni's all around
-100+ nitrous shot
-Cruising in style with leather and nice stereo.

OLDYELLR

I have a 1-1/4" socket I once bought for doing a pinion seal, but totalled that car before I got around to it. In that case. I would have just marked the nut and put it back like it was. To do it "right", you need the rear end apart with the carrier out and tighten it per the manual to the proper preload to get 8 to 12 in.lb. drag (or do it the way RB83L69 suggested in https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/003714.html If you can't do that and the nut is has actually loosened, you could tighten it by trial and error to see if the play goes away. I'd be afraid that the pinion bearings are on the way out and that won't fix it.

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1985 Yellow IROC-Z 5.0 HO, T-5 3.73 Torsen, 4 wheel disks
PFCM pads, GTA wheels, Koni yellows, B&M Ripper, Dynomax

ede

i think 1 1/4" but not sure, it's bee na year since i did one. you can't check preload with the carrier in either. if it were mine i'd be taking it all apart for an inspection before you really break something.

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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM