Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
#2
Senior Member
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
What kind of warranty did you get? A 12month 12000 mile warranty?
I would take it back and show them all the problems.
I would take it back and show them all the problems.
#4
Senior Member
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
It sounds like they used cheap parts and didnt use assembly lube or didn't put it back together correctly. The throw out bearing sounds horrid and clearly is shot already.
#5
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
I'm especially interested in opinions on what the tweeting sound you hear starting at 2:00 into the video is, and what the squealing sound that starts at 5:05 are.
The tweeting sound starts whenever the clutch pedal is released, whether it is in gear, or not. It goes away at the slightest touch on the clutch pedal.
The squealing only happens in 5th gear, on uphills at low rpm.
The tweeting sound starts whenever the clutch pedal is released, whether it is in gear, or not. It goes away at the slightest touch on the clutch pedal.
The squealing only happens in 5th gear, on uphills at low rpm.
#7
Supreme Member
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
I bet they put on the 5th gear cluster backwards I have seen that a few times on T5s
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#11
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Car: 1986 Camaro SC
Engine: 305 TPI Procharged D1SC
Transmission: Tremec TKO-600
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 Bolt 3.73 posi
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
now that i'm not at work and watched the video.... they had to provide you with a warranty if they did all the work... why wont they fix it? did you see the old clutch after they took it out?
#12
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
So, the guys at the shop are crooks and creeps. They're not going to fix it. My only option at this point is to take them to small claims court. In order to do that, I have to get the transmission repaired, and have a written opinion from whomever repairs it to submit to the court.
There's just no upside to discussing the behavior of the guys who rebuilt my transmission. What's done, is done, and the only way to get any of my money back from them is to get my transmission fixed, then take them to see the judge.
What I really need now here is:
a) Opinions on what the tweeting sound you hear starting at 2:00 into the video is, and what the squealing sound that starts at 5:05 are.
b) Opinions on where to have the transmission rebuilt. I know there are members here on TGO that do it, and I'd sure rather spend my money with a TGO member then with another stranger. We all see how that worked out.
I can get a rebuilt T5 for around $1,100. I had a conversation last year with a guy in Atlanta who rebuilds Mustang T5s. Seems like he was around 1,300, including upgrades.
My 305 L03 makes a whopping 170 hp, and aside from putting a lumpy, lumpy-assed cam in it and a set of burned-out Cherry Bombs on it, that's about all I'm gonna do with it. A T5 will be fine for my needs.
There's just no upside to discussing the behavior of the guys who rebuilt my transmission. What's done, is done, and the only way to get any of my money back from them is to get my transmission fixed, then take them to see the judge.
What I really need now here is:
a) Opinions on what the tweeting sound you hear starting at 2:00 into the video is, and what the squealing sound that starts at 5:05 are.
b) Opinions on where to have the transmission rebuilt. I know there are members here on TGO that do it, and I'd sure rather spend my money with a TGO member then with another stranger. We all see how that worked out.
I can get a rebuilt T5 for around $1,100. I had a conversation last year with a guy in Atlanta who rebuilds Mustang T5s. Seems like he was around 1,300, including upgrades.
My 305 L03 makes a whopping 170 hp, and aside from putting a lumpy, lumpy-assed cam in it and a set of burned-out Cherry Bombs on it, that's about all I'm gonna do with it. A T5 will be fine for my needs.
#13
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, 355" LT1, LT1
Transmission: T5, Zf6, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, Dana44 3.45, 3.23
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
The input shaft is sticking on the pilot bushing. That's one problem.
I'm not sure about the 5th cluster, you would have to take the transmission apart.
I also suspect your release fork is bent.
I'd remove the transmission, replace the release fork and bearing. Remove the bushing and install a timken roller bearing in the crank pilot.
-- Joe
I'm not sure about the 5th cluster, you would have to take the transmission apart.
I also suspect your release fork is bent.
I'd remove the transmission, replace the release fork and bearing. Remove the bushing and install a timken roller bearing in the crank pilot.
-- Joe
#14
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
I rebuilt mine myself, never having done a trans rebuild before. I bought the parts, tools required, and a rebuild video from Hanlon Motorsports. I put an old TV in my garage and literally play/pause/play/pause ALL the way through the process. They show you everything.
All in all I had about $500 in the job, plus I gained knowledge, piece of mind and now own the tools! Even the $180 harbor freight shop press which i have never used since, was FAR cheaper than paying for the work.
All in all I had about $500 in the job, plus I gained knowledge, piece of mind and now own the tools! Even the $180 harbor freight shop press which i have never used since, was FAR cheaper than paying for the work.
#15
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
The input shaft is sticking on the pilot bushing. That's one problem.
I'm not sure about the 5th cluster, you would have to take the transmission apart.
I also suspect your release fork is bent.
I'd remove the transmission, replace the release fork and bearing. Remove the bushing and install a timken roller bearing in the crank pilot.
-- Joe
I'm not sure about the 5th cluster, you would have to take the transmission apart.
I also suspect your release fork is bent.
I'd remove the transmission, replace the release fork and bearing. Remove the bushing and install a timken roller bearing in the crank pilot.
-- Joe
Which of the (many) noises indicates the input shaft is sticking on the pilot bushing?
Should I replace the release fork with a stock unit, or is there an upgrade?
#16
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
I rebuilt mine myself, never having done a trans rebuild before. I bought the parts, tools required, and a rebuild video from Hanlon Motorsports. I put an old TV in my garage and literally play/pause/play/pause ALL the way through the process. They show you everything.
All in all I had about $500 in the job, plus I gained knowledge, piece of mind and now own the tools! Even the $180 harbor freight shop press which i have never used since, was FAR cheaper than paying for the work.
All in all I had about $500 in the job, plus I gained knowledge, piece of mind and now own the tools! Even the $180 harbor freight shop press which i have never used since, was FAR cheaper than paying for the work.
#17
Supreme Member
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
I can't recommend a pilot bearing over a bushing in any small block application they seem to destroy the input shaft when they fail
#18
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Car: 1987 Formula (original owner)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt/3.45
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
Mine used to make that exact tweeting sound, and it appeared and disappeared under the exact circumstances you described: when the pedal had no pressure on it, the sound was present, but when you put the slightest pressure on the pedal, the sound went away. Turned out to be something extremely simple: vibration at the contact point between the clutch fork and the ball on the end of the slave cylinder's plunger.
The ball has a nylon cap over it when new. That cap is part of the strapping system that's designed to retain the plunger in the slave cylinder until the slave is installed, at which time you cut the straps, and the plunger pops out and meets the fork. Necessary for operation or not, by design, removing the cap prior to installation isn't feasible, then once installed, it's not removable, so the cap "insulates" the metal-to-metal contact between the ball and the fork. But over time, the ball wears through the tip of the cap, and the remaining portion of the cap keeps the now-exposed tip of the ball from making solid contact into the indentation in the fork, allowing for vibration between the ball and the fork, until the slightest amount of pressure is applied to the pedal.
I never investigated the sound, but when my slave cylinder eventually blew, and I replaced it, the tweeting noise was gone, making me wonder... So I compared the old with the new, and that was the only difference, which made sense.
The ball has a nylon cap over it when new. That cap is part of the strapping system that's designed to retain the plunger in the slave cylinder until the slave is installed, at which time you cut the straps, and the plunger pops out and meets the fork. Necessary for operation or not, by design, removing the cap prior to installation isn't feasible, then once installed, it's not removable, so the cap "insulates" the metal-to-metal contact between the ball and the fork. But over time, the ball wears through the tip of the cap, and the remaining portion of the cap keeps the now-exposed tip of the ball from making solid contact into the indentation in the fork, allowing for vibration between the ball and the fork, until the slightest amount of pressure is applied to the pedal.
I never investigated the sound, but when my slave cylinder eventually blew, and I replaced it, the tweeting noise was gone, making me wonder... So I compared the old with the new, and that was the only difference, which made sense.
#19
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
Mine used to make that exact tweeting sound, and it appeared and disappeared under the exact circumstances you described: when the pedal had no pressure on it, the sound was present, but when you put the slightest pressure on the pedal, the sound went away. Turned out to be something extremely simple: vibration at the contact point between the clutch fork and the ball on the end of the slave cylinder's plunger.
The ball has a nylon cap over it when new. That cap is part of the strapping system that's designed to retain the plunger in the slave cylinder until the slave is installed, at which time you cut the straps, and the plunger pops out and meets the fork. Necessary for operation or not, by design, removing the cap prior to installation isn't feasible, then once installed, it's not removable, so the cap "insulates" the metal-to-metal contact between the ball and the fork. But over time, the ball wears through the tip of the cap, and the remaining portion of the cap keeps the now-exposed tip of the ball from making solid contact into the indentation in the fork, allowing for vibration between the ball and the fork, until the slightest amount of pressure is applied to the pedal.
I never investigated the sound, but when my slave cylinder eventually blew, and I replaced it, the tweeting noise was gone, making me wonder... So I compared the old with the new, and that was the only difference, which made sense.
The ball has a nylon cap over it when new. That cap is part of the strapping system that's designed to retain the plunger in the slave cylinder until the slave is installed, at which time you cut the straps, and the plunger pops out and meets the fork. Necessary for operation or not, by design, removing the cap prior to installation isn't feasible, then once installed, it's not removable, so the cap "insulates" the metal-to-metal contact between the ball and the fork. But over time, the ball wears through the tip of the cap, and the remaining portion of the cap keeps the now-exposed tip of the ball from making solid contact into the indentation in the fork, allowing for vibration between the ball and the fork, until the slightest amount of pressure is applied to the pedal.
I never investigated the sound, but when my slave cylinder eventually blew, and I replaced it, the tweeting noise was gone, making me wonder... So I compared the old with the new, and that was the only difference, which made sense.
My car has had the slave cylinder replaced. It tweeted before, and after. I'll definitely take a look, though!
#20
Senior Member
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
Call your local Better business bureau. Once you open a case with them this company has to make it right or will be shut down
#21
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
As I said before, they are not going to fix the transmission. I have to get the car fixed, then sue them in small claims court. Once that small claims court is resolved (whether for me, or against me), you can bet I'll be filing a complaint with the BBB, and giving them accurate reviews on every reviewing site I can find, but nothing happens until I get the car fixed
#22
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
As a shop owner and master tech myself - that sounds horrible. I have rebuilt many transmissions and that sounds like a cheap clutch kit, and bearing issues inside the trans.
A lot of the problems seem clutch related - pilot bushing/bearing can create drag on the input shaft which will cause hard shifts and grinding, the release bearing is clearly hosed, and you have a high pedal. Which means either hydraulic issue, bent fork, etc.
I bet they used the absolute cheapest parts they could get.
I just finished a clutch job this morning due to a failed pilot (needle) bearing causing input shaft drag. Similar symptoms. Trans was fine. Perfect, quiet operation on my test drive. Exedy clutch and proper installation.... this pilot failed due to 182k on it. Original clutch from 2001.
GD
A lot of the problems seem clutch related - pilot bushing/bearing can create drag on the input shaft which will cause hard shifts and grinding, the release bearing is clearly hosed, and you have a high pedal. Which means either hydraulic issue, bent fork, etc.
I bet they used the absolute cheapest parts they could get.
I just finished a clutch job this morning due to a failed pilot (needle) bearing causing input shaft drag. Similar symptoms. Trans was fine. Perfect, quiet operation on my test drive. Exedy clutch and proper installation.... this pilot failed due to 182k on it. Original clutch from 2001.
GD
#23
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
As a shop owner and master tech myself - that sounds horrible. I have rebuilt many transmissions and that sounds like a cheap clutch kit, and bearing issues inside the trans.
A lot of the problems seem clutch related - pilot bushing/bearing can create drag on the input shaft which will cause hard shifts and grinding, the release bearing is clearly hosed, and you have a high pedal. Which means either hydraulic issue, bent fork, etc.
I bet they used the absolute cheapest parts they could get.
I just finished a clutch job this morning due to a failed pilot (needle) bearing causing input shaft drag. Similar symptoms. Trans was fine. Perfect, quiet operation on my test drive. Exedy clutch and proper installation.... this pilot failed due to 182k on it. Original clutch from 2001.
GD
A lot of the problems seem clutch related - pilot bushing/bearing can create drag on the input shaft which will cause hard shifts and grinding, the release bearing is clearly hosed, and you have a high pedal. Which means either hydraulic issue, bent fork, etc.
I bet they used the absolute cheapest parts they could get.
I just finished a clutch job this morning due to a failed pilot (needle) bearing causing input shaft drag. Similar symptoms. Trans was fine. Perfect, quiet operation on my test drive. Exedy clutch and proper installation.... this pilot failed due to 182k on it. Original clutch from 2001.
GD
Thanks for taking the time to look at my video.
So, the transmission problems got worse and worse, to the point that it was scraping into 3rd, 4th and 5th and grinding like crazy. Much worse than on the video.
There was this crazy deal struck where another shop would pull the transmission, take it to the creeps, they'd fix it, then the other shop would reinstall it.
When the new shop put the car on the rack, they found the four bolts holding the transmission to the belhousing were loose, and the transmission had backed out 1-2 inches.
When the transmission was pulled, we found the pilot bearing was wallowed out, so we replaced it.
We also learned the creeps hadn't had the flywheel resurfaced when they'd replaced the clutch.
After chasing the second shop for months to get them to finish it, I just made them put my car back together. With the transmission now bolted all the way in, it was better, but not right. The video shows the way the car is now, after the pilot bearing was replaced, and the transmission was bolted all the way in.
What I found strange was, I'd always thought the clutch engaged so high on the pedal because they hadn't shimmed the flywheel after it had been resurfaced. Since they never resurfaced it, I don't know why the clutch is coming in so high.
#24
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
1-2 INCHES ??!!
Holy oh f**k man!
I would say that much weight dingle-dangling by the input shaft may have cause collateral damage inside the trans.
Generally speaking resurfacing the flywheel does not require shimming it. We're only talking a few thousandths and most vehicles they don't sell shims for anyway. You have a tolerance and if you have to cut it deeper than that, you just get a new one. Like a brake rotor. In any case the flywheel being resurfaced would actually cause it to release closer to the floor.
Clutch height could be pedal assembly related possibly. Maybe not enough pedal free-play at the top....
I would say the backed out mounting bolts probably caused the trans issues from improper input shaft to pilot alignment. Probably wrecked input bearings in the trans.
GD
Holy oh f**k man!
I would say that much weight dingle-dangling by the input shaft may have cause collateral damage inside the trans.
Generally speaking resurfacing the flywheel does not require shimming it. We're only talking a few thousandths and most vehicles they don't sell shims for anyway. You have a tolerance and if you have to cut it deeper than that, you just get a new one. Like a brake rotor. In any case the flywheel being resurfaced would actually cause it to release closer to the floor.
Clutch height could be pedal assembly related possibly. Maybe not enough pedal free-play at the top....
I would say the backed out mounting bolts probably caused the trans issues from improper input shaft to pilot alignment. Probably wrecked input bearings in the trans.
GD
#25
Re: Problems With T5 Rebuild (Video)
1-2 INCHES ??!!
Holy oh f**k man!
I would say that much weight dingle-dangling by the input shaft may have cause collateral damage inside the trans.
Generally speaking resurfacing the flywheel does not require shimming it. We're only talking a few thousandths and most vehicles they don't sell shims for anyway. You have a tolerance and if you have to cut it deeper than that, you just get a new one. Like a brake rotor. In any case the flywheel being resurfaced would actually cause it to release closer to the floor.
Clutch height could be pedal assembly related possibly. Maybe not enough pedal free-play at the top....
I would say the backed out mounting bolts probably caused the trans issues from improper input shaft to pilot alignment. Probably wrecked input bearings in the trans.
GD
Holy oh f**k man!
I would say that much weight dingle-dangling by the input shaft may have cause collateral damage inside the trans.
Generally speaking resurfacing the flywheel does not require shimming it. We're only talking a few thousandths and most vehicles they don't sell shims for anyway. You have a tolerance and if you have to cut it deeper than that, you just get a new one. Like a brake rotor. In any case the flywheel being resurfaced would actually cause it to release closer to the floor.
Clutch height could be pedal assembly related possibly. Maybe not enough pedal free-play at the top....
I would say the backed out mounting bolts probably caused the trans issues from improper input shaft to pilot alignment. Probably wrecked input bearings in the trans.
GD