articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

well all the newest hard parts are now getting installed...in the close ratio billet 700R4.hp.
billet pumps..billet drums billet shafts.Billet stator....cryo treated every thing..every aftermarket part sold/made...nothing more to buy..
yes even the 5 pinon and 6 pinon planets...(no more RPM drop from 1st to 2nd 2nd to 3rd)only used part..is a case and output shaft..cryoed!

yes even a trans brake.. full manual revers pattern valve body..full line pressure..no TV cable!!..I LOVE TO SHIFT IT!(non lock up)JUST Me...is why..

this pan is 1 1/2lbs lighter then the cast aluminum pan..and it matches the moroso aluminum oil pan..so why not...(UP DATE MOROSO PAN IS OUT OF SPEC..TO SHOLLOW..HITS VALVE BODY AND FILTER..MOROSO IS WORKING ON MAKING ME A PAN..Until then I went with Stef's pan.. see above pics how the pan will not seat...
picked up a 2nd pan to see if was just a goof...nope..this lot number is no good!


and a shifter to go with all the goodies

will it hold up? we will see...side note(a th400w/brake and over drive would have been cheaper..but everybody has done that!)
he ask..hope you like hard shifts...I told him my other 700 always kicked the tires over in all the gears..just putting along....
he's like....this is going to be a bit more then that..I replyed..lets put that carbon fiber drive line to the test!
I know everything beyond that is good!

red rock

iTrader: (2)

Are you building it, or having it built? That's some ching for all them goodies. What should it be able to handle for HP and Torque?

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

a buddy who has a trany shop has the small parts I don't have.. valve body bolts..case snap rings..beat up pan(pre install pan) I'm tossing him some cash to bolt it together..he ask me if I won the lottery.. when I was dropping the parts off...they have been sitting for a year..so its time to put it together...and get it in the car...
my other 700 is going on the shelf for a back up..and if I like the new one..ill add the same parts to it...

sonnax told me with the parts it should be right up with well put together 4L70 for hp and TQ.
TCI..it should be well over 600hp (my old 700 was doing that for years) 10.50s @130+ 3300lbs w/nos 11.70 foot brake
(could be 500hp it was the 90s)

no other 700r4 sold.. has all the hard parts made today...so it sould be.. what ever others are saying...claiming..and then some..

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

Nice. Mine has all Sonnax stuff too. Love it.

Claimed rating on mine is 750 HP. I'm nowhere near that. Just got a screaming deal on it so threw it in.

GD

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

did you do the 6 pinon planet as well...wanting to try the new gear ratio out..

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

As far as I know it's a 5 pinion in mine. I didn't have it built so some of it is a mystery. It was built about 5 years ago but only driven for a few months. Car blew an engine, owner bought a vette. Parted the car out. I got it from a friend that parted it for him and had this sitting in his shop. Said the transmission was "too violent" for anything he would ever want to build.

GD

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

most of the same parts in this video..i have a few more then they do...

then ya have billet pump gear
billet stater
cryo everything
98% new parts
only the case and output shafts are used a 2nd time..the output shaft like other parts have been cryo treated..just the make sure..there is not a history of any braking..in the 2 wheel drive setups..


tips

more hype

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

more hype..by buyn the parts and having it done I saved $900+
+its close ratio..
https://www.animalperformancetransmi...nt=16375787585

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

made a kick down filler...

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

its done...ill get some pics up..nice looking unit...
as this one in a full manual revers valve body W/trans brake..

and my other unit now a back up trans..but I like it so much.. its a manual auto valve body..im going to add all the same parts.. just keep the manual auto valve body..

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

new host for pics...so why not
the new TCI trans brake...on a close ratio 700R4...


no kick down cable..full line pressure at all time..

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

Tci can tell you pretty much anything to sell you parts. Best bet is to talk to the experts that actually build these and the 4l60Es and make them live behind alot of hp. I dont see a 700 holding 750 with stock shafts. The over run clutch is another area that gets destroyed on these. I was specifically told on mine to leave in drive and let the trans shift itself. Shifting it manually destroys the over run clutch on high hp.My builder has numerous heavy impalas deep in the 9s on 2500 dollar 4l60 builds. There was one guy in the whole country that made the shafts, he doesnt make them anymore for the 700. Dont know why. Who is building the trans and whats there exp? Just curious.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

TCIs parts
a Billet Pump gear
billet band anchor pin
a Billet stator
Valve Body with trans Brake
Governor cover.
TCIs parts go with trans brake...recommended ..but not a selling point..(TCI is the only one making a trans brake for the 700)
and if you want to get the best out of a converter..then ya need a trans brake...

Sonnax parts
every thing..made today for the 700r4 used in beat on mode..


GM parts
Case.. cryoed
GM 5 pinon planets.. also cryoed
output shaft..also cryod (it helps)
bolts..
there is not a lot of broken output shafts on the 2 wheel drives.. have some broke?
not like the 4x4s.. so there was no money in it. as mostt move to a 4L60 and up GM trans..

iv had 700r4s in the 10s and only lost a sprag.. when the pinon gear in the rear let go at 106mph...Blender Mode...(replaced with a 9" ford)
its always nice to hear of other guys running in the 10s and 9s with a 700.. ITS Been done. I did it in the 90s Before all the cool parts they have out today..

iv been playn with trans from 1984 to today.. I did not start with a core...I started with a case. and all the aftermarket parts...and took everything to a buddy's shop so he could put it together as I was missing the clips and small bolts that I did not have.. even a stock pan to move it around till install day...

after all this is not going into a car ya drive every day..

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

Thats good to know. I have just heard of full slick breakage. I think alot of the issues people were having is that they were using aftermarket planeteries. Seems the metal is subpar compared to gm ones. You know what Id like to know and I cant really find any info on it. The K cases. Are they thicker than the standard 2 wheel drive units? I ask because I used the K case from my 97 tahoe for the 4l60e. Its stamped with a K.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

I use Gm AC delco 5 pinon rear planets..(pics at top)..with the sonnax 6 pinon front planet for close Ratio.
this case is a pre 87. as I'm not using the tube from the pump to the back.and parts of this case are thicker..

before cryo treating the case it also Deberd 100%. this parts takes the longest.
but makes for a better case in the long run..and a plus.. when the color is added the finish feels glass smooth... this one is in a gun Grary gloss hammer tone..

also at this time..the lowest speedo gears I can did up are for the 4.10/4.11. gear sets..for My VSS. am looking for one for 4.56..or close.. with stock speedo setup..
some times I like to run diff gear sets.play around
ya can never have to many


Tv cable? don't need one...1/4 chunk of billet cut to plug hole..no leak..

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

well the stef's pan fits fine.with 1/4" clear on the filter and valve body.....will post some pics in a bit..

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

stef's pan..in place

the lines coming out are 6an the cooler with fan. takes 8an fittings and lines..thats adding another QT of fluid..the unit..
did not want a deep pan..the fabb pans weigh 2lb less the the cast pans...and even 3lbs less the a deep cast pan..

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

talked to Moroso(7-28-17) to do a check up on what they found...get this..
was told. the case thay have is a 4l60.. and would have to get a 700r4 case to check things out?...as to why the pans did not fit......don't think its going to get done anytime soon...lol

red rock

iTrader: (2)

That's getting to be pretty typical now days. It's hard to find knowledgeable help any more. By the way, what is the pressure rated for the Derale cooler. I'm running over 200 psi and most i find are rated for 150 psi. I wonder if there could be a possible blow out?

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

They are full of sh#t. My pan fit the 700r4 ok not great. It didnt fit my 4l60e without a hammer. Ill never buy another thing from them again. They waisted my time and lead me by the nose to think everything was within spec. Its not within the spec listed mine was .10 to shallow. Thats it. They didnt want to hear it. Oh we have a table we measure it on with lasers. Oh I guess my exp digital caliper is wrong. Whatever. When u get a different answer everytime you call you can be sure they dont know what the hell is going on.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

the last time I asked it was 250psi..i sent them a email 5 min ago asking..
I know the ones I have made by the swiss take 140psi..i know the AN fitting coolers take more PSI. just have to see what thay say...

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

that's the thing..the 700R4 and the 4L60 take the same pan...lol
my stef's pan fits like it was made by GM..moroso as a lot number of pans out of spec...they just don't get it...lol

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

the reply I got back was the operating pressure is 250 psi on the cooler I have.. so I'm good to go...juust to keep track I added another auto procomp gauge...

they tell me all there coolers are rated the same for the 250PSI

red rock

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for getting back on that. I'm just about to install an Auto meter temp gauge, but I'm guessing I'll need a cooler besides my radiator. I run about 170* in the radiator, but I'm not sure if it's cooling the trans enough. 250 psi will be close to borderline for me.

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

I think somone is not telling you the truth. The oil cooler circuit is tops maybe 30psi. When you buy a kit it comes with hose barbs and 5/16 or 3/8 lines with hose clamps. No trans cooler is 100psi let alone 150. No worries on any cooler you buy.

red rock

iTrader: (2)

I'm not running a stock transmission. Here's one tested to 250 psi, http://derale.com/products/fluid-coo...-thread-detail

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

for us guys running full line pressure...its a tad bit more then 30psi....

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Transmission Line Pressure Specifications.
The following charts provide the mainline pressure readings for all of the various TCI® transmission models. These readings can be obtained by attaching a 300 psi fluid pressue gauge to the appropriate pressure port on the transmission, and running the engine at 2000 rpm.
These pressure readings provide a valuable source of information when troubleshooting transmission problems or as a system check after rebuilding a transmission or installing a TCI® valve body.
Simply Click on the Transmission you are Interested in, Or Scroll Down to the Appropriate Line Pressure Chart
GENERAL MOTORS
FORD
CHRYSLER
Powerglide
TH350
TH400
2004R/700R4
C4
C6
AOD
Torqueflite A727/A904
Torqueflite A500/A518



GENERAL MOTORS
Powerglide Pressure Test
Forward
Shift Pattern
Park
Reverse
Neutral
2nd
1st
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
StreetFighter®
N/A
N/A


N/A
N/A
60-75
95-120
110-140
110-140
Full Manual
N/A
N/A
180-220
180-220
N/A
N/A
180-220
180-220
180-220
180-220
Circlematic
N/A
N/A
0
140-170
N/A
N/A
0
140-170
0
140-170
Trans-Brake
N/A
N/A
180-220
90-110
N/A
N/A
180-220
180-220
180-220
180-220

TH350 Pressure Test
Forward
Shift Pattern
Park
Reverse
Neutral
3rd
2nd
1st
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
StreetFighter®
55-70
170-200
80-150
235-270
55-70
170-200
60-90
120-175
75-110
120-175
75-110
120-175
Full Manual
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
Reverse
Shift Pattern
Park
Reverse
Neutral
1st
2nd
3rd
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Trans-Brake
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
Full Manual
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170
145-170

TH400 Pressure Test
Forward
Shift Pattern
Park
Reverse
Neutral
3rd
2nd
1st
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
StreetFighter®
55-70
150-175
95-150
235-260
55-70
150-175
70-90
135-165
135-165
135-165
135-165
135-165
Reverse
Shift Pattern
Park
Reverse
Neutral
1st
2nd
3rd
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Full Manual
180-200
180-200
180-200
180-200
180-200
180-200
180-200
180-200
180-200
180-200
180-200
180-200
Trans-Brake
180-200
180-200
180-200
180-200
180-200
180-200
180-200
180-200
180-200
180-200
180-200
180-200

2004R/700R4 Pressure Test
Forward
Shift Pattern
Park
Reverse
Neutral
4th
3rd
2nd
1st
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
StreetFighter®
90-110
190-230
95-120
200-300
90-110
190-230
90-110
190-230
90-110
190-230
185-230
185-230
185-230
185-230
Reverse
Shift Pattern
Park
Reverse
Neutral
1st
2nd
3rd
4th
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Full Manual
90-110
90-110
200-300
200-300
90-110
90-110
190-230
190-230
190-230
190-230
190-230
190-230
190-230
190-230

FORD
C4 Pressure Test
Forward
Shift Pattern
Park
Reverse
Neutral
3rd
2nd
1st
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
StreetFighter®
55-75
220-250
150-175
235-280
55-75
220-250
55-75
155-170
90-105
110-125
90-105
110-125
Reverse
Shift Pattern
Park
Reverse
Neutral
1st
2nd
3rd
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Full Manual
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
Trans-Brake
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160

C6 Pressure Test
Forward
Shift Pattern
Park
Reverse
Neutral
3rd
2nd
1st
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
StreetFighter®
55-95
160-190
75-135
240-310
55-95
160-190
55-95
160-190
55-95
160-190
55-95
160-190
Reverse
Shift Pattern
Park
Reverse
Neutral
3rd
2nd
1st
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Full Manual
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
Trans-Brake
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160
140-160

AOD Pressure Test
Forward
Shift Pattern
Park
Reverse
Neutral
Overdrive
Drive
Low
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
StreetFighter®
55-65
185-220
75-90
250-300
55-65
185-220
55-65
185-220
55-65
185-220
55-65
185-220

CHRYSLER
Torqueflite 727/904 Pressure Test
Forward
Shift Pattern
Park
Reverse
Neutral
3rd
2nd
1st
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
StreetFighter®
0
0
145-175
230-280
0
0
50-60
90-110
50-60
90-110
50-60
90-110
Reverse
Shift Pattern
Park
Reverse
Neutral
1st
2nd
3rd
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Full Manual
0
0
230-280
230-280
0
0
110-130
110-130
110-130
110-130
110-130
110-130
Trans-Brake
0
0


0
0
130-150
130-150
130-150
130-150
130-150
130-150

Torqueflite A500/518 Pressure Test
Forward
Shift Pattern
Park
Reverse
Neutral
3rd
2nd
1st
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
Min
Max
StreetFighter®
0
0
145-175
230-280
0
0
65-75
130-140
55-60
90-100
55-60
90-100

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red rock

iTrader: (2)

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

Pressure port is pressure inside the transmission. The cooler port is totally separate. It is 30 psi if not less. Tell me when you buy an over the counter cooler amd it comes with regular 5/16 or 3/8 hose and just hose clamps you really think that the trans is 150 or 200 psi? That hose isnt rated for that. I used to flush the trans at home using this method. You dump the cooler return line into a gallon jug and start the car or truck. Do this until you get about 2-3 gallons out. You shut down the car or truck as soon as you see bubbles in output line. I did this with clear cheap hose I bought from ace hardware. Its lucky if that hose is rated at 50 psi. It takes about half a min to fill a gallon more or less I dont remember. Trust me those pressures you are copy and pasting are internal pressures not the cooler line pressures.

red rock

iTrader: (2)

While what you say may be true, I know what my line pressure is running and I don't know what it is coming out to the coolant line. I rebuilt my own transmission (with a Pro-built Automatics Street/Strip kit) and I never ran across a pressure reducer while rebuilding it. I guess i should have called Dana and asked. So explain to me where in the transmission it gets reduced from line pressure to coolant pressure, and how much if a difference is there?

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

Call Dana and ask him. My tranny guy told me the same thing. Your beating yourself over the head with false info to find a cooler to hold 150 psi. Its not as complicated as you are making it. You buy a cooler, do AN or hose clamps and be done. I personally used Aeroquip push lock.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

when installing a cooler on a trans..you want to make sure its safe to run at all times.. be it 22psi or 300 psi.. the point is..we know they will hold up...(all Derale coolers are tested to 250 PSI) ya get what ya pay for..

some of us use AN fittings and lines that are good to 500psi+...when we don't need them... the cooler is good to 250psi with AN fitting good to 500psi+ so I will never have it blow out...

hose clamps are tacky in my book...with every thing in the market place today...

NOTE: it's at this time IROCZ1989. starts his troll...

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

I understand what you are saying in terms of an lines and such. But the point Im trying to make is your worrying about the psi rating of a trans or oil cooler. My point is you dont have to. Your basing this worry on internal trans pressures not the cooler line pressures. Most an lines are good to 250 psi. Overkill for most applications if your situation is fp or oil pressures. But all are rated like that. Oil coolers are rated say 150 psi. Some vehicles run 80+ psi on startup, still giving you alot of cushin to the 150psi. The whole point here is just buy a cooler and dont even give the psi rating a second thought. If you want to get the best cooler a setrab or mocal is the best hands down. But your going to pay through the nose for one. In all honesty the B&M style which is made by dana and is a tru cool unit is sufficent for about 90% of whats out there to cool. Ive used these alot and only have a mocal on the mustang because I needed a remote mount with fan in a tight space off the radiator.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

I get what I pay for...I have used the swiss coolers (setrab) are only rated to 10 bar...(145psi) for the same price..i get a better cooler and fan in one unit..

after all..when was the last time ya spent $2800+ in just hard parts for a trans...its how long ya want it to last..not cutting corners..

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

I wouldnt spend that much. Its not needed. A lot of $$$$ doesnt equal quality.I spent $2300 fully assembled by the best 4l60E/700r4 builder in the country. He has cars deep in the 9s with these builds, alot of them, running a racing weight of 4000+.I would trust someone who can back up what they are telling me vs a company just selling me stuff and telling me thats what I need because they say so. I mean what has TCI done? Or the guy whos putting your trans together done notable? The best hard parts are worthless if the builder doesnt assemble it correctly. For the simple reason I couldnt put billet shafts in a 700 I abandoned it to use a 4l60E. Just on that one point. Its an issue with high hp vehicles. Was advised not to go that route at my level. That shaft breaks you kiss your whole trans goodbye. Esp you being on a transbrake. That puts alot of stress on it during launch. This is just me relaying info. What convertor you have? A TCI as well?

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

its a 700R4...Because..I can...
its not how much you spend.. but what you spend it on....below is a fast price list..from what I recall.. forgive me if I leave something out...I could dig out my invoices...
I tried to covered ever thing made today for the 700R4 31 spine unit...anything left out is a short cut..im not taking...

so your running a full manual revers pattern Trans brake in your 4L60E? $450 (don't know if they make one for it)
and your trans in now a close ratio with 6 pinon front planet.. $650(no more RPM drom when shifting 1st to 2nd ..2nd to 3rd..)
your running a sonnex smart input drum (bolt together) with billet shaft..$550
sonnax billet servos $150 Kit another $200 steels/clutchs (could have been more I forget)
GM 5 pinon rear planets (GM MADE) $150
sonnex sun shell $60 (gess)forget what I paid
every thing sonnax makes to keep it alive $150 (sprags/rev Drums GM new)
Billet stater $75
billet pump gear $200..
then toss in new pump small parts ($50 $60 bucks)
Cryo treating every thing to make sure it stays alive $150
not a big hstory on 700R4 out put shafts braking..(on 2 wheel drive units) but its been Deep cryoed just to make sure..
as the trans brake needed the governor in place for lube purposes...(that's what I'm told by TCI) or yes I would have gone with a 4L60 output shaft....just sayn..

leaving out a few things like...
put together price $400 hes a nice guy...been doing tranys for 30+ years has a trans shop....takes time to mic things out..
billet TQ 9" $750
good cooler $165 16 pass with Fan. and switch
TCI outlaw shifter (black out) with 3 bottons $500 (got a deal from TCI)saved $150+
auto Meter pressure Gauge $80 Procomp...
Stef's trans pan $204..(picked up 2 Moroso pans $165 ea..same lot number.made wrong..did not fit..got money back..Summit!)
#6 an fittings $16
SS line $50
and a chrone dust cover..$25 (I like to keep it clean)
billet flexplate $250/280 (I forget)
Tubular cross member $100 I forget(think its BMR/UMI..I forget)
billet moly trans yoke $125


but if you got all this for $2300.. ya got a Fantastic deal!
but like I was sayn....I don't take short cuts...just me....

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

Ill tell your right now if you paid $150 for new GM planeteries. They are not real GM planetaries. They are fakes . Real ones are over $400. You dont need a manual reverse anything. The thing that kills these trans on high hp cars is manually shifting them. Another plus going with a 4l60e. You can program the shift points. Leaving it in drive.
Major weak area is input sprag. A one way clutch that has to hold when vehicle takes off. The harder, heavier or added weight all add stress to the sprag. Forward clutches hold 1st 2nd and 3rd and are splined to outside of front hub of imput sprag.
In stock or mildly modified trans the forward clutches are the only clutch applied when in drive or overdrive. Pulling to manual 2nd or manual 1st will apply the over run clutch . This clutch is made up of 2 small diameter clutches, but hold the over run hub on the input sprag. This takes the largest % of stress off the sprag because the whole assembly is turning as a unit instead of the one way clutch.
Here is where manually shifting comes into play. Manually shifting the car say into second presents other issues. First it means you have to make one manual upshift. Next issue is that the trans isnt designed to be manually upshifted at high rpms under heavy load. Next issue is when you make the 2-3 upshift you bring on the over run clutches as a timed engagement. Remember that "timed engagement".This is very hard on those 2 small diameter clutches. My trans was modified to apply the over run clutches in the D position. The over run clutches are applied in every gear and not a timed engagement. This protects the sprag. I set the shift points and let it do its job. This is my builders way to bullet proof these. Most builders just throw the most exspensive parts at it and hope for the best. The trans still has the inherent design flaw of the timed engagement of the over run clutches if not modified. These are not designed to be shifted manually. Even with the best parts. Its not designed to be shifted that way.A builders knowledge and exp pays for itself ten fold.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

sorry... but I get my GM parts from GM.when they had them.... and yes all my part 5 pinon planets are Gm...
and this is not my first 700R4...been drag racing the 700 for 25 years...this is the first one with all the new hard parts made today..I Have been drag racing C4s C6s th350s th400..for over 30 years...so its ok not my first rodeo...

stick with what you think you know...as you don't know the details of deals I run and get..
don't ASSUME anything....
if you take time to look at the pics posted you can see for your self..a real GM Made 5 pinon planet...anybody that knows GM planets can see what they are...and the box they came in...lol I would not use anything But a GM 5 pinon planet in the 700..and held off 5 years on the 6 pinon planet in the 700..to see how they did....

NOTE: GM made 5 pinon planet BELOW

anybody that knows GM parts.. can see the GM 5 pinon plants small and larg...front and rear...GM made baby!
ya got to know...how to run deals! just like when I sell parts...always the best Deal!! hands down!!
on a side not...I have gm made 5 pinon planets for sale...just the front one.drop in. with bearings....$100 shipped..is that to much?

whats nexed...the last 10.000rds of 5.56 855..is not real 5.56.855...as I only paid $1200 for it....
Below..pic.back in 1992 when my car came back from lingenfelters w/ stage 5 upgrade 383 with manul/auto 700R4 3500 stall
Ya..better let the guys at LPE Know.. they are doing it all wrong!! 11 sec 1/4 passes with just a foot brake..and stomp it...!in the 10's with the button..and fogger...

I wish I would have known..ya cant mod a trans..bet it would have been faster then 11.70s..them crazy Guys at LPE!!
I will forward your Advice....

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

You dont have to get all salty. Because you buy a car built by Lingenfelter your smarter than me or anyone one else? How does that work? Gm planetaries, fakes that is have been going around for a while. Im just giving you a heads up. If you paid that much its not genuine GM. No matter what kind of "deal" you get there isnt that much mark up on GM planetaries to pay 100 brand new. Only an exp trans guy can tell the difference. Im not telling you all the parts are fakes, just those. Posting pictures, old ones ,of a car you didnt build doesnt impress me. I dont know where that came from. So you went 11s? What is that supposed to mean? That somehow you are more intellegent than anyone else? You dont even know the simple fact the cooler line pressures are different than the internal pressures of the transmission. Or the fact there are real and fake gm planeteries. I dont think you can comprehend the simple fact they look exactly the same but are made of subpar metal. Maybe you didnt catch that. You just take things way to personal.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

POSTING old pictures. of my car from 25 years ago...lets see your from 25 years ago..
edit to add.. after all 25/30 years ago when the super ram was the new kid on the block..thats old tech even by today...lol

Trolling a post with what you think are facts..when you don't have a Fu&%$ clue to what deal was done makes you the fool...
(EXAMPLE..i paid $500 for a brand new accel supper ram top to bottom) back in 1992 as part of the stage 5 upgrade..
must have been a fake..they sell for over $900 now...
when I get a part from GM in GM boxes..(I WORKED for GM)..and my trans Guy knows GM parts..and verifys in fact thay are GM parts..before installing them...tell me..Again HOW you know More then we do...from a price I pay for parts 5 years ago...

edit to add
ya just don't get it....its like beating you head on a rock..it feels so go whan ya stop!

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

custom shop special...(Emphasis on the word... Special) you own that one!

(Salty) not me...just sayn...

so...tell me more about my parts and my car..I would love to know....LMAO..
I sold a full set of weld wheels 15x3,5/15x10 with 6.5 back space with new tires for $500 ..they must have been fake!! they sell for more than that..

sold a full sphon front end kit new in boxes K member/A arms/coil over setup shipped $750 ..must have been fake!! sells for more then that!!!

sold a set of sphon Billet camber plates..and tossed in a bran new $89 guage for $350 shipped must have been fake..they sell for more than that!!(paid $400 for the plates 2 days before)


all sold on this site!

do you under stand now??
don't assume you KNOW something... when you don't......and you don't!
yes fake off shore planets. don't seem to hold up...that's why I would never use them...or beat on a after market part to make it fit...


Nexed..

IROCZ1989

iTrader: (1)

I dont have to assume anything. You are so salty you have to post a novel to build yourself up to me. I could care less if God himself built your car. The point is it isnt your first rodeo is it? But your lost on cooler line pressures? Mmm. Sounds like its your debut night at the rodeo. Are you not the guy that bought that chinese made Wheeler block? You dont have to delve into your past to build yourself up. I know exactly what kind of person you are. Someone who equates the more you spend the better it must be. You have such a long history of performance building and a racing past that surpasses all us peasants and back wood bobs as you call it. But... you are lost on cooler line pressures. Thats actually very comical. You cannot take any critique, because as you put it, you know everything,but, simple cooler line pressures. Must have skipped that class. In your next response can you insult me more by calling me a hick and a wood booger like you previously hinted at here as to what you think of all the others owners of these cars on this forum ,except you. Nice to know you think this way of others here. I never insulted you or called you names. Nice finding out what kind of person you really are behind that screen name. I just tried to give you correct info on 2 parts and info on cooler line pressures and you go on an insulting spree. You are insane to say the least.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

Salty? you bring my reply with your assumption! and opinion. so enjoy...
I stated facts...not building my self up..sorry "YOU" feel that way...
I forgot your a speed god know it all...whos Sh$t don't stink.(and cant put a eng together)..you have fun with that...
don't forget your hammer...the tool ya use to fit parts....and we will all remember.. ya cant mod a auto trans. to manual shift. auto.and work....and ill remember you know more about my car part deals then I do.(lol)..Read your post.I did...
as you still don't seem to think you.. made a assumption..= price I paid for a part...must be a piece of junk....(I cant spell it out any better... take time to read it a few times...im sure your not that thick...(hoping)

no need for coolers that hold more then 50 PSI! ill pass that on the the Manufacturers..they have been making them way to strong!! ya can just buy the cheap plastic coolers..your secret is out!!

have fun...its not a pitty party unless you make it one....

..nobody likes a troll..
ill leave it at that...

EDIT TO ADD:
This site is used by a lot of guys/gals. to get info on that parts/fixes that are out there...so when you get a TROLL who post things...or Advice..to a point of being rude.(even when they don't know what thay are talking about).well.thats then net for you..in todays world you get what you pay for..they make parts to do a job..know what your paying for...and look for deals...they are out there.. expl..I paid $400 for a like new in box sig 226 9mm.. off the net..when it got to my dealer.. it was a made in 1988.still like NEW.and even marked.. Made in West Germany. it Was in the factory box with 2 15rd mags.test target and handbook...and all for $400..WAS IT A FAKE?? no it is not...lol DEALS they are out there...

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

its almost fri..and I
got a good deal on a forged chromoly Yoke $50 new in box...(must be a fake)AS ya Can't get them for less then $135 from summit.... its always nice to have back up parts....even with a good price...


for the 700R4 1350 U joints...see how the crafty devils even copyed the box and bag.... its got to be a fake!!after all. I only paid $50....

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

come to think about this post..I have to say..i must have got Fake fuel pumps also.. summit sells this fuel pump for over $800ea.. I only paid $175 to $200 ea shipped about a year apart NIB's.....must be fake fuel filters as well only paid $30 ea...silly me...

antoine

I dont think its any proof that 5 pinion planetary is better than 4 or stronger

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

the load is spread out over more pinons..its simple math/engineering...GM made them for a Reason..

TEDSgrad

iTrader: (4)

5 is stronger than 4!

Never been a fan of TCI, after using their products. To each his own.

Manual shifting is problematic, as is the 4--> 2 WOT kickdown (we all love so much):
"On a 4-2 or 3-2 downshift, the 3-4 clutches have to release, which means as they are trying to exhaust, so is the inner portion of the servos. You never get a clean release of 3-4s on a 3-2 downshift because there's too much volume to exhaust, and it has to time with the band. You get to "perfect" the upshift timing of the 2-4 band release, and the 3-4 clutch apply on the 2-3 upshift, but you don't get to perfect the downshift too. It's along for the ride. Whatever you do on the upshift calibration (feed hole and exhaust hole sizing, servo size, band size, 3-4 friction area, 3-4 clutch return springs, servo release capsule, servo spring) all has a play on the release too."

On an auto drag car, one can optimize the upshift knowing that downshifts won't be optimal. Application, application, application!

"It's more than just the clutches/bands.
You go from over-running the forward sprag in OD, to locking it on a 4-3 shift. You also go from the rev input drum and sun shell being static in 4th, to spinning up to engine speed (input shaft speed actually) in 3rd, almost instantaneously. This can cause the tangs on the sun shell to expand from centrifugal force, they get into the case, case gets sawed in half, explosion or something close occurs.

3-2, the opposite occurs. Rev input and sun shell go from spinning engine speed to slamming to a stop.

Automatic transmissions generally work on these principals but the 4L60E has some odd powerflow relatively."

Pro Built Automatics

The oem 4 pinion planetary is made from forged steel and heat treated for the pinion gears and nodular iron for the carrier. The oem 5 pinion is made from powdered iron for the pinions and the same for the carrier. Powdered iron pinions are not as strong as the steel pinions and therefore to get the strength back, they added the fifth pinion. It is much cheaper to make the powdered iron pieces than steel and nodular iron material. I talked to the engineers at GM about this in the early 2000's. The engineers told me this was a bottom line move (cost), and there had never been problems with the 4 pinion setup. I have not had or seen a 4 pinion setup break from all of my builds in the last 23 years, and no one has called me when using my kits as having a planet break on them. Stick with the 4 pinion setup as that is what you most likely have now and put the money toward something else here.

articwhiteZ

iTrader: (56)

like he states and the end.."always go with AC Delco parts"

powdered iron..side notes..so we know..
GM also makes rods from the same stuff...(strong?)

YES powdered rods are everybit as strong as forged ones (they are them selves forged), and as an added bennefit they weigh exactly the same and requires no ballancing, which is the real reason the rods are supperior. the initial tooling and equipment cost is however very high, and therefor we propably wont see aftermarket manufactures produceing powdered rods anytime soon.

The Powder Metal Process
How Powder Metal Parts are Made

The three basic steps for producing conventional density parts by the powder metallurgy process are mixing, compacting, and sintering. A brief explanation of each step follows:

Step One: Mixing
Elemental or prealloyed metal powders are first mixed with lubricants or other alloy additions to produce a homogeneous mixture of ingredients.

The initial mixing may be done by either the metal powder producer or the powder metal parts manufacturer.

Step Two: Compacting

A controlled amount of mixed powder is automatically gravity-fed into a precision die and is compacted, usually at room temperature. Normally, compacting pressures in the range of 30 to 50 tons per square inch are used.

Compacting the loose powder produces a "green compact" which, with conventional pressing techniques, has the size and shape of the finished part when ejected from the die, and sufficient strength for in-process handling and transport to a sintering furnace. Typical compacting techniques use rigid dies set into special mechanical or hydraulic presses.

Step Three: Sintering

In the typical sintering step, the green compact is placed on a wide-mesh belt and slowly moved through a controlled atmosphere furnace. The parts are heated to below the melting point of the base metal, held at the sintering temperature, and then cooled.

Basically a solid state process, sintering transforms compacted mechanical bonds between the powder particles to metallurgical bonds. This provides the powder metal part's primary functional properties.

Powder metal parts generally are ready for use after sintering. However, to provide special properties, the parts can be repressed, impregnated, machined, tumbled, plated, or heat treated.

GM has a tendency to move forward...not backwards..
gm puts them in Heavy duty units...

stick with your 4 pinon planets..ya don't need the HD stuff..its just Hyp put out by AC Delco and GM.
after all who wants to upgrade to all bearings..WHEN ya can use the cheap plastic bushings/thrust bushing..right..spend your money elsewhere.... no need to upgrade to the new stuff...even if the post is about..ALL THE NEW PARTS FOR THE 700R4...


why do they try to sell parts...when some shops use the same parts they have for 25+ years? you would think they are moving forward...why?

Edit to add
Moving on to the next part/Parts...