This was odd.....my tires were in need of replacing.I had 215/60 on my 8 inch outlaws.The tires were to bad for an inspection sticker.
I borrowed a set of 225/70 on a set of 14 inch rims.The first to second shift was far from a screamer.
I put a set of 225/60 on my 15's and the tires scream like hell when it shifts.
The 14 inche tires(225/70) are about the same size height wise as the 225/60 on the 15's but the 15's are wider.
Why wouldn't the 14's "chirp" when shifted when the 15(which are wider) will?

I know, sounds stupid...I was just looking for something "tech" to write since I haven't posted in a while.I had to let you guys know I was still around.

P.S. Anyone good with body work?Or maybe finding me a pass door(maroon in color)89 RS?

 

well actually the 14 in tire is a wider tire than the one that's on your bird normally...the 215....the first numbers are the tires width, i believe it's in mm. but not totally sure about that. the 225 would be 10mm wider than your 215, while the 235's i'm looking at are 20mm wider, 10 per side, and wil fit on my 15x7 rim. apparently though, on the factory camaros from the first gen, you could jam 255's on the 15x7 in rim. hmmmm, gotta see what i can work in the back, and how much will be enough sothey don't stand out of the well.

 

I'm good with body work, but ain't driving that far to do any! I was wondering if you still visited the boards!

Rim width doesn't really control tire width; you keep saying the 15's are wider; I think you mean the 15" rims are wider? Although, depending on how wide the tire is, squeezing a wide tire onto thin rims can cause the sidewall to bubble, resulting in a smaller contact patch. (If the P225/70's were that "squeezed" on the 14" rim, you'd hear more squeal).

Both are 9" wide tires, (225 divided by 25, technically, divided by 25.4, but I never get too silly with this)

As to height;
the tire/wheel package of the 14" is = 26.6
the tire/wheel package of the 15" = 25.8

Now, you said your 15" tires were worn down; this might've dropped the height of the tire. Your 15" tires might really be 25" tall. And you know the deal with a taller tire; it decreases your effective gear ratio, and lowers the 0-60 and 1/4 mile time. This might also have something to do with it.

Plus, how are the treadwear ratings of both tires? They're usually rated A, B, or C ... one of which (I forget, C?) is the "longest tread life", the other end (A?) is "shortest tread life". A tire with longer treadlife will have a harder rubber compound.

 

Well..I realized after I wrote this that the tires should be the same width.A 225 is a 225 on a 14 and a 15 inch rim.The 14's are a 70 series and the 15's are a 60 series.So I'm guessing that they are close to the same height.But this isn't important I just wanted something "tech" to write.

I was ready to trade my RS off for a truck.But after the new rubber and a few repairs...I can't see me letting my baby go.

My inspection sticker ran out at the end of May.Well...I needed tires,tie-rod ends and fix a hole in my tail light.Oh...and a clip to hold my brake linebehind the passenger front wheel.Someone had black electrical tape wrapped around it.

I changed the tie-rods myself.Not a hard job at all.I removed the lens from the taillight..the broken piece fell to the inside of the light..glued it back together and got the tires.I started on the door about 2 weeks ago.It looks as if someone has fixed this door before.Rust had taken over where the strip runs along the door.After removing the paint and rust,we found all kinds of spot welds.Probably where someone had used a dent puller.The putty damn near covers the whole door.
All we did was sand it down and apply primer and paint.Just to get me by until I can do it right.
So Tom,I'll meet you half way?????

 

LOL! So you stripped all the filler off the door? How thick was it? If it was a thin layer, the filler is perfectly fine. Poly filler got a bad rep when it first came out, because people layered it over rust and paint, in THICK blobs. And naturally, the filler would fall out. But done with proper prep, and layed down thin, filler is acceptable, and will work as intended.

Interestingly enough, I found out that lead had the same bad reputation when it came out. The resto-junkies all say to use lead, because that's the "right way"- but the same things originally happened to lead (piled up in large lumps + improper prep = falling out). When poly filler came out, and you didn't need a torch, and it was easier to work with, the guys that messed up the lead jobs were messing up the plastic filler jobs even worse- and since you don't need any special tools, the average guy started messing up filler. That's more than you ever cared to know about filler, eh?

I'm working on a buddy's car right now; he got hit by a deer. The damn thing ran right into the side of his pontiac 4-door. It hit the front driver's door slightly, and banged the hell out of the rear driver's door. The front door dents worked out beautifully with hammer & dolly work. The rear door was hell- the impact beam covered the whole area. I couldn't get a dolly in there, and if I managed, it was held with one finger- one blow of the hammer made the dolly fall into the door. So I had to pull out a slide hammer- 33 frickin' holes in the rear door. That was a complete btch to weld those holes shut. I never welded holes shut before, just messed around with joining metal together. The weld falls out thru the center of the hole. I couldn't find any copper lying around (we have a sheet, who knows where that went?), so I tried cutting up and unfolding and flattening a piece of copper water pipe to use as a backing for the holes. (Weld won't stick to copper, so you use it to back up the hole.) The pipe copper was too damn strong (unbendable) to work with easily, so I just flipped it to the side.

But now that I'm back doing sanding & bondo work, it all seems like "business as usual". Funny how I didn't forget how to work with the stuff; last time I worked with it was when I got my car back to normal condition, in August '97. Bummer is, the whole rear door is going to take filler. I managed to get the metal pretty good to straight again, but there's so many little dings and dents from the slide hammer & body hammer that the whole bottom of that door will have a thin coat of filler.

I use the "Ultimate Bondo", in a sky-blue can. It says that it sands easier and is more resistant to pinholes; don't know how true that is, but it's the only stuff I ever worked with. (Unless you count Auto Shop 1 in high school from '94, which I don't. )

Kevin, here's something you might want to know: Primer is NOT waterproof! Find a "sealer" or "primer/sealer" to spray over the primer, OR, paint the door with regular paint. If primer gets soaked (rain), it absorbs it, the body rusts underneath the primer, and you'll have a quarter panel like mine. For more devasting pics, including rust on the inner wheel well (or, should I say, the "missing" inner wheel well!), see this message on the Body/Interior board: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=108890

 

Hey I got such bad rust underneeth in the back, that my back peice of teh GFX fell off, and I had to glue it back on there.
Yep, glue.... casue its so badley wrotten underneeth the car there is no where to even screw it in.
Haha