Engine pics
Looks good.
Might I suggest pulling off the coolant plate on the bottom of the throttle body? If you are doing the coolant bypass alteration then you don't need it.
Also, I noticed your belt routing? are you still running a tensioner? and it looks as if your waterpump will be turning the wrong direction with the way you have it .
Might I suggest pulling off the coolant plate on the bottom of the throttle body? If you are doing the coolant bypass alteration then you don't need it.
Also, I noticed your belt routing? are you still running a tensioner? and it looks as if your waterpump will be turning the wrong direction with the way you have it .
Last edited by AFrikanGoodTime; Sep 27, 2002 at 11:33 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,461
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
maybe I'll put those blue cobra eye things in them so when I pop the hood at night it'll look funky
Originally posted by AFrikanGoodTime
Also, I noticed your belt routing? are you still running a tensioner? and it looks as if your waterpump will be turning the wrong direction with the way you have it .
Also, I noticed your belt routing? are you still running a tensioner? and it looks as if your waterpump will be turning the wrong direction with the way you have it .
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From: Halifax, NS,Canada
Car: 1995 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23's - Limited Slip
Soo shinney *eyes hurting*
That looks really good.
How long did it take you to swap in. Or did you sort of just take your time and putter at it for a couple of weekends?
That looks really good.
How long did it take you to swap in. Or did you sort of just take your time and putter at it for a couple of weekends?
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,461
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
I've been working on this thing for over a year. not sure exactly on the engine swap, will have to look up other posts, because I did a lot of other stuff to it as well. Basically, I averaged about 2-3 hrs a week. that takes a long time
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Posted twice before but I'm still not certain you saw it so I'll ask again:
It appears in the pics that your have tried to alter your belt routing. The way you have it will cause your waterpump to turn the wrong direction and overheat the block -- make sure and double check that.
It appears in the pics that your have tried to alter your belt routing. The way you have it will cause your waterpump to turn the wrong direction and overheat the block -- make sure and double check that.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
I don't see a problem, only diff between the 2.8 & the 3.4 radiator is the sides the hoses go to. on the 2.8, the manifold goes to the upper pass side, on the 3.4, the manifold goes to the upper driver side. same goes for the lower hose. The belt routing is still the same for other 3.4s, I just the a/c delte and got a belt that will still allow everything to rotate the correct direction.
Originally posted by Project: 85 2.8 bird
I don't see a problem, only diff between the 2.8 & the 3.4 radiator is the sides the hoses go to. on the 2.8, the manifold goes to the upper pass side, on the 3.4, the manifold goes to the upper driver side. same goes for the lower hose. The belt routing is still the same for other 3.4s, I just the a/c delte and got a belt that will still allow everything to rotate the correct direction.
I don't see a problem, only diff between the 2.8 & the 3.4 radiator is the sides the hoses go to. on the 2.8, the manifold goes to the upper pass side, on the 3.4, the manifold goes to the upper driver side. same goes for the lower hose. The belt routing is still the same for other 3.4s, I just the a/c delte and got a belt that will still allow everything to rotate the correct direction.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
Are you certain they spin the opposite direction of the 2.8 motors?
(but I don't think so
) Originally posted by Project: 85 2.8 bird
yes. the 3.4 is designed to have the belt run underneath the pulley. This is the reason why when running the 2.8 accessories & front engine cover, you use the 2.8/3.1 wp. the belt is routed on top of the pulley. I'ts all good. if not, after a slew of cuss words, I'll guess I'll be doing one of these
(but I don't think so
)
yes. the 3.4 is designed to have the belt run underneath the pulley. This is the reason why when running the 2.8 accessories & front engine cover, you use the 2.8/3.1 wp. the belt is routed on top of the pulley. I'ts all good. if not, after a slew of cuss words, I'll guess I'll be doing one of these
(but I don't think so
)
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
nope, not at all, here's a pic of the 3.4 before the conversion. if you look, you can see the belt routing.
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Totally bitchin! What kind of paint did you use on the plenum and the TB and accessory brackets? It looks anodized. Hey you guys see the anodized wheel paint from Eastwood company? It's meant for wheels, but I imagine it could be used on other things...
Ever think of getting chrome fasteners? Or the gold anodized valve cover spreaders (under the valve cover bolts)? Summit even sells the bolt head caps. I used 'em on my rear axle a while ago to set off the chrome cover I have.
Ever think of getting chrome fasteners? Or the gold anodized valve cover spreaders (under the valve cover bolts)? Summit even sells the bolt head caps. I used 'em on my rear axle a while ago to set off the chrome cover I have.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,461
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
Thanks TomP,
all paint is the 500* spray can type. the Dark blue may be the 1200* one, but caint remember now. I hit it w/some 500* clear cote & it came out shiny
. A lot better looking than the flat finish in earler pics. The valve covers were done in aluminum & clearcote. the paint isn't all that thick as I scratched some off the drivers side putting in the metal fuel lines.
Edit: The fuel lines are shiny cause I weernt to town on them w/some 000 metal (brillo pad type material) I knew the name then forgot as I typed. hate that shyt

After all the dirt, grease & crud were removed, I sprayed some of the clearcote on them from "some" protection.
The light blue is PONTIAC blue, just happens to be metallic in nature. didn't use clearcote on it, just forgot to really
If you can, I would recommend having the manifolds & valve covers powedercoated & baked for a more durable finish. Maybe even the tb too. that permatex metal filler does a good job for filling in those indentations in the tb
,nudge nudge, wink wink
might do some chrome bolt caps later though.
all paint is the 500* spray can type. the Dark blue may be the 1200* one, but caint remember now. I hit it w/some 500* clear cote & it came out shiny
. A lot better looking than the flat finish in earler pics. The valve covers were done in aluminum & clearcote. the paint isn't all that thick as I scratched some off the drivers side putting in the metal fuel lines.Edit: The fuel lines are shiny cause I weernt to town on them w/some 000 metal (brillo pad type material) I knew the name then forgot as I typed. hate that shyt

After all the dirt, grease & crud were removed, I sprayed some of the clearcote on them from "some" protection.
The light blue is PONTIAC blue, just happens to be metallic in nature. didn't use clearcote on it, just forgot to really
If you can, I would recommend having the manifolds & valve covers powedercoated & baked for a more durable finish. Maybe even the tb too. that permatex metal filler does a good job for filling in those indentations in the tb
,nudge nudge, wink winkmight do some chrome bolt caps later though.
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