V6 Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.

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Old Sep 27, 2002 | 09:57 PM
  #1  
Project: 85 2.8 bird's Avatar
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
Engine pics









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Old Sep 27, 2002 | 11:26 PM
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Looks good.

Might I suggest pulling off the coolant plate on the bottom of the throttle body? If you are doing the coolant bypass alteration then you don't need it.

Also, I noticed your belt routing? are you still running a tensioner? and it looks as if your waterpump will be turning the wrong direction with the way you have it .

Last edited by AFrikanGoodTime; Sep 27, 2002 at 11:33 PM.
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Old Sep 27, 2002 | 11:33 PM
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Project: 85 2.8 bird's Avatar
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
maybe I'll put those blue cobra eye things in them so when I pop the hood at night it'll look funky
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Old Sep 27, 2002 | 11:48 PM
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From: Orange, Ca.
Originally posted by AFrikanGoodTime


Also, I noticed your belt routing? are you still running a tensioner? and it looks as if your waterpump will be turning the wrong direction with the way you have it .
I added this part, wanted to make sure you see it.
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Old Sep 28, 2002 | 07:44 AM
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Joe_L's Avatar
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From: Halifax, NS,Canada
Car: 1995 Z28
Engine: LT1
Transmission: Built 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23's - Limited Slip
Soo shinney *eyes hurting*
That looks really good.
How long did it take you to swap in. Or did you sort of just take your time and putter at it for a couple of weekends?
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Old Sep 28, 2002 | 08:07 AM
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Project: 85 2.8 bird's Avatar
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
I've been working on this thing for over a year. not sure exactly on the engine swap, will have to look up other posts, because I did a lot of other stuff to it as well. Basically, I averaged about 2-3 hrs a week. that takes a long time
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Old Sep 28, 2002 | 09:41 AM
  #7  
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From: Baton Rouge ,Louisiana ,USA
I LOVE the blue !!!!!!!!!! ....you can come over and start on mine next !
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Old Sep 28, 2002 | 04:44 PM
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Posted twice before but I'm still not certain you saw it so I'll ask again:

It appears in the pics that your have tried to alter your belt routing. The way you have it will cause your waterpump to turn the wrong direction and overheat the block -- make sure and double check that.
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Old Sep 29, 2002 | 05:16 PM
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Project: 85 2.8 bird's Avatar
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
I don't see a problem, only diff between the 2.8 & the 3.4 radiator is the sides the hoses go to. on the 2.8, the manifold goes to the upper pass side, on the 3.4, the manifold goes to the upper driver side. same goes for the lower hose. The belt routing is still the same for other 3.4s, I just the a/c delte and got a belt that will still allow everything to rotate the correct direction.
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Old Sep 29, 2002 | 09:04 PM
  #10  
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From: Orange, Ca.
Originally posted by Project: 85 2.8 bird
I don't see a problem, only diff between the 2.8 & the 3.4 radiator is the sides the hoses go to. on the 2.8, the manifold goes to the upper pass side, on the 3.4, the manifold goes to the upper driver side. same goes for the lower hose. The belt routing is still the same for other 3.4s, I just the a/c delte and got a belt that will still allow everything to rotate the correct direction.
I'm not concerned at all about your radiator. My concern is only on the rotation direction of your waterpump. Are you certain they spin the opposite direction of the 2.8 motors? Water pumps are not designed to work backwards/ this is why they sell reverse rotation waterpumps for most Chevy RWD cars running sepentine belt systems.
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Old Sep 29, 2002 | 11:40 PM
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Project: 85 2.8 bird's Avatar
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
Are you certain they spin the opposite direction of the 2.8 motors?
yes. the 3.4 is designed to have the belt run underneath the pulley. This is the reason why when running the 2.8 accessories & front engine cover, you use the 2.8/3.1 wp. the belt is routed on top of the pulley. I'ts all good. if not, after a slew of cuss words, I'll guess I'll be doing one of these (but I don't think so )
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Old Sep 30, 2002 | 12:48 AM
  #12  
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From: Orange, Ca.
Originally posted by Project: 85 2.8 bird
yes. the 3.4 is designed to have the belt run underneath the pulley. This is the reason why when running the 2.8 accessories & front engine cover, you use the 2.8/3.1 wp. the belt is routed on top of the pulley. I'ts all good. if not, after a slew of cuss words, I'll guess I'll be doing one of these (but I don't think so )
Hope you don't mind me looking out for you. I guess I was wrong on that, but on the bright side, I learned something new.
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Old Sep 30, 2002 | 07:21 AM
  #13  
Project: 85 2.8 bird's Avatar
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
nope, not at all, here's a pic of the 3.4 before the conversion. if you look, you can see the belt routing.

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Old Sep 30, 2002 | 09:53 AM
  #14  
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Totally bitchin! What kind of paint did you use on the plenum and the TB and accessory brackets? It looks anodized. Hey you guys see the anodized wheel paint from Eastwood company? It's meant for wheels, but I imagine it could be used on other things...

Ever think of getting chrome fasteners? Or the gold anodized valve cover spreaders (under the valve cover bolts)? Summit even sells the bolt head caps. I used 'em on my rear axle a while ago to set off the chrome cover I have.
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Old Sep 30, 2002 | 10:35 AM
  #15  
Project: 85 2.8 bird's Avatar
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
Thanks TomP,
all paint is the 500* spray can type. the Dark blue may be the 1200* one, but caint remember now. I hit it w/some 500* clear cote & it came out shiny . A lot better looking than the flat finish in earler pics. The valve covers were done in aluminum & clearcote. the paint isn't all that thick as I scratched some off the drivers side putting in the metal fuel lines.
Edit: The fuel lines are shiny cause I weernt to town on them w/some 000 metal (brillo pad type material) I knew the name then forgot as I typed. hate that shyt
After all the dirt, grease & crud were removed, I sprayed some of the clearcote on them from "some" protection.

The light blue is PONTIAC blue, just happens to be metallic in nature. didn't use clearcote on it, just forgot to really

If you can, I would recommend having the manifolds & valve covers powedercoated & baked for a more durable finish. Maybe even the tb too. that permatex metal filler does a good job for filling in those indentations in the tb ,nudge nudge, wink wink

might do some chrome bolt caps later though.
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