Ok, take the camaro out for dinner. I don't ride in it alot, usually just the mrs driving it.

It has this "dead spot" on take off, and at lights idles really high. I asked how long its been that way, and shes like huh, what??


Anyway, get to spot, throw the key in the adal terminal. Spits out code 35. TPS or IAC. We replaced the IAC less then month ago, its not bad.
Get home, throw in a TPS we have laying around. Idles better, rev it up, CEL, ARGH. Code 22. Tryed 3 other TPS including the one off my s10. All did the same. Went and exchanged the IAC, did nothing for the car.
Put old TPS back in, idles like ***, but no CEL.

So may I ask WTF is up with this car???? PLEASE, ANY IDEAS

 

Dale....on the ThirdGen FAQ, it lists code 35 as: "Idle speed can not be set to desired RPM"

?

Did you clear the ECM between swapping the TPS's? Sounds weird but if I replace a sensor, my car has a hard time adjusting to the new sensor without replacing the TPS. It starts to throw codes that don't make sense. When I swapped my oxygen sensor, the car ran like sh*t and gave me a faulty IAT sensor code until I reset the ECM...then car ran perfect and no codes. I always do that by killing the battery for 30 secs...all the other ECM reset methods don't work for me.. Plus when you do that, when you fire it up, the IAC valve tweaks to re-learn its open and close positions, which stalls the car out.....so, hey, ya never know. Do what I do...keep messing with stuff until something works.

 

Yes, I pulled the ECM out, unplug it, and leave it on the floor while I swap parts. The meathod for me is easiest and has always worked. And that way I don't have to re-set the over complicated radio info.

Will have her take it for a spin today and see if **** smooths out.
I am about ready to say to AUTOZONE parts. Seems I am always getting faulty electrical parts from them.

 

There's an easier way than pulling the ECM and you wont lose your radio settings.

In the passenger side front fender, there is a fuse mounted on the inside with a little cover on it. This is the ECM B+ fuse. By pulling this fuse for 10 seconds, the ECM is cleared.

 

Ok, I put stock TPS back on it, new IAC, new EGR.

It stumbles on start up. And when you gas it off a lite it stumbles.


now this seems like a fuel problem to me however....

I tested fuel pressure and its at 45 on "key on" and goes to 44 with engine running. I left guage on for 30 min for leak down. It went down 2 lbs. That should be no biggie??


So any ideas on whats wrong??

 

Wonder how your fuel injectors are firing...maybe they need a cleaning and are not firing properly which will cause bog/lurch when you give it gas until the injector clears itself enough to fire some more..then a sudden kick up.. Oh btw Cali...I looked for that, I don't have it. :\ My car makes me very suspicious sometimes. Such as...pulling the ECM fuse in the fuse box does NOT clear the ECM...try making sense of that one... Dale, 45-44 between key on and started...I think the started fuel pressure is actually higher than normal if I'm not mistaken..normally I think there's like a 5 psi loss between key on and start, but I could be wrong.

 

It should be right in front of the coolant overflow bottle...anywhere in that area. Every thirdgen i've worked on had it.

 

In front of overflow tank? Let me look.

 

Is it a big, bulky weatherpak connector mounted to the side?

 

Yeah, you can't see the actual fuse unless you pull it out of the shield mounted on the fender.

 

2 red wires running into it? MAAAAN, I've been disconnecting my battery to reset my ECM for ages now..and all I had to do is this? DAMN my freaking Haynes manual. It told me my ECM fuse is a SINGLE WIRE PIGTAIL running on the DRIVER'S SIDE linked with the BATTERY. Argh..........

 

I was under hood of mine for 4 hours today. I do see what your talking about. Next time I need to reset the ecm, I will try to rem that thingie. Thanks