i really do, so badly im trying to sell it, but i cant even get it to run good for someone to look at it. so here we go again, i gotta fix some of this stuff.
Code 45 (rich at o2) How do i fix this?
Rough idle before check engine light comes on (45) idles jumps between 500-1000. Ive replaced the IAC, TPS, coolent temp sensor, Air cleaner temp sensor, blocked off egr.
Next problem, stumbles, and doesnt want to acclerate, if i push the gas it doesnt do anything but bog, till about 3500 then it takes off like normal.
I was told when i bought the car it had a shift kit, verdict is still out, so here we go with this, shifts about 3500-4000 1-2-3 gear very hard out of 1st and 2nd.
And finally, i got my new tires and rims and since then the car has shook very badly at 60mph+ and when burning out.

Can someone help me with this stuff, i want to get some of it fixed tomorrow.

 

Code 45: You didn't mention replacing the oxygen sensor...

Tires/rims: They probably aren't balanced correctly. If a shop did the balancing, take the car back and have them rectify the situation.

 

Is tps adjusted correctley?

Did you get the car aligned after the new rims/tires were mounted?, and do you know if the rims themselves have been balanced?

Side note: what is condition of current a-arm bushings, as worn ones can wreak havoc too on alignment

 

humm forgot to add, o2 is new, the tires were balanced, and the shaking is from the driver side rear. How do i adjust the tps? shouldnt it be right already? thanks for the help guys keep it comming

 

check this: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...&highlight=tps

Also check your cat it might be clogged.

 

Could the fuel pressure be too high?

 

humm i havent been able to post all day.

i think the cat is clogged and might be causing most of my problems, im gonna go have that checked out tomorrow.

any ideas about the shaking and the tranny? 2 of the rims and tires are off another car, 1 is a old rim, and one is new with new back tires. i dont think they wouldnt be balanced, what would cause it to shake when i burn out?

 

how old are the shocks/struts?

 

stock probably, but remember it didnt do this till i got the new tires and rims on it

 

check the cat to see if it is like a cherry red especially after running thats a sure fire sign of a clog, the tranny could be ur TV cable (throttle valve)my trans did teh same thing, it tells the trans when to shift. i suggest picking up a haines( 17bucks) and fix what you can. lets the person u selling the car to have the book. about the shaking.. i wouldnt suggest burning out if you have such a bad problem, and it sounds like balance or shocks check to see if the weights on the tire were throw off.

personally id save the car dont sell it just work with it. it loves you you just dont know it

 

are there any other ways to check for a clogged/bad cat?

 

ive adjusted the tv cable a few times, the guys at the muffler shop said my cat is good, im gonna put a fuel filter on, if yall have done that refer to my other thread

 

as for the bad cat....i was just wondering...is it just false logic, or can you tell if its clogged by putting your hand by the tailpipe to feel the exhaust pressure coming out??

just wondering.

 

i changed the fuel filter, no progress, still problems, adjusted the tv cable again, still problems. Think i should adjust it and open the thorttle by using the gas pedal rather than the thorttle body? My new exhaust sounds sweet though

 

I'd go over the major tuneup list and take care of anything you might have missed: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=162251 I wonder how your timing is... I bet it's way off.

Have you pulled the spark plugs and read them, to see if any are funny-colored or caked in carbon or slogged up with oil or etc? If you find one plug that's way off from the others, pull the spark plug wire out and test it on a multimeter. Then, record the resistance, and one at a time, test (and label) the other plug wires. All the plug wires should have readings that are very close to each other.

Also, double-check the oxygen sensor wire- from the oxygen sensor itself, to the connector, all the way up to the engine harness. If the wire melts against the engine, it can short out, and throw a false code.

If after getting the new tires/rims the back tire has shook; I'd try going to a different place to get the tires balanced. Also- have you tried swapping that tire out for, say, one of the tires in the front? Do you have access to another car with the same bolt pattern rims (5x4.25), that you can put your friend's tires on, and see if the car still shakes?

I know you said you just got back from the exhaust shop but check your exhaust for leaks. A leaking exhaust near the motor will cause a "vacuum effect", drawing fresh air into the pipes, and confusing your oxygen sensor to think that you're running lean- uh, haha, never mind, you're getting the "rich" code. But check for leaks anyway, especially at the exhaust manifolds.

 

im not sure how to set timing and i dont have a light, but im thinking its off, or has the chance to be. They fixed the 1 leak i had and all my pipes from the cat back are new. Can someone tell me how to set timing? Tomorrow im going to switch out the tires with the fronts. Ive been putting it off because a socket barely fits in the lug holes.

 

humm heres a bit of info i forgot to add, i put on the tpi intake, and i had to extend the wires for the air cleaner temp sensor, sometimes the car will run right others it wont, so it must be with those wires, making the motor think its cold or hot, making it run rich. Ive soldered the wires together, what else can i do to get a good connection? I really thought it was that, but then again, it acted like this BEFORE i put the intake on it too. GRR i hate the car!

 

Is it very slow off the line but in the 3000-4000 rpm range, it hits its powerband almost explosively??

Just a thought, because I had 2 broken fuel injectors on an old motor of mine and it made no power before 3500. But almost right at 3500 it would break the tires loose and kick sideways and whip the tach clear to 6000. It was flooding out real bad and it took that many rpms to burn the excess off.

 

adjusting the TV cable is a littel wierd.. my haines book said it should ratchet into place after i adjust it in and open the throttle. mine never did that, i had to manually adjust it out. trust me when you get it right youll know it. my suggestion is to adjust it in all the way and back it out slowly then drive it, back it out, drive it until you get it right. now my car will break the tires loose while rolling, shift into second while powerbraking, and scream down the road when i stomp it.(and thats witl new tires )

 

nixon, u nailed it. Thats what i was planning on replacing next. I love having all these extra parts

 

i had this same problem and i juss replaced my gaset. i was gettin leakage from the intake manifold. i TEMPORARILY cut out a diagram form a pepsi case and stuck it there. didnt have the problem after. try juss replacin that gasket an see wut happens.

 

u replaced what part? Anyway, replaced the injectors today, didnt fix it. Im sure its that wire i soldered, since it only does it sometimes, i did find out something wrong though, my distributor was VERY loose. fixed that, but cant get the bolt to tight because i dont have any swivels. Im gonna solder that wire some more tomorrow. Maybe i didnt heat it up enough?

 

ok i got my tires balanced and it didnt fix my shakey shakey. And i put the orignal 3.1 intake on. and guess what. NO FIX. still idles bad, still code 45. how can i lean out the fuel? or get more air?

 

Have you checked your pressure yet? The only things that come to mind right now, that I havent noticed mentioned--but I did only skim-is maybe a bad fuel pressure regulator, like with a blown diaphragm.....or a flooded-out charcoal canister that's running liquid fuel instead of vapors into the intake. Check fuel pressure with a gauge at the Schrader valve. Then pull the vacuum to your regulator and look for a pressure jump. If there's no pressure jump, the regulator is bad or there's a bad vacuum line to it. If liquid fuel comes out of the regulator when you pull the line, then you've also got yourself a bad regulator.

You can run an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to cut back on fuel delivery....but then that's only spending extra money to mask some other problem.

 

I would say just sell the damn thing.
It will make you happier.

 

if it shakes in the front, ur alignement is probably off or u have a bad tie rod end, thats wut i think

 

ok, fuel pressure regulator was in the fuel rail i got out of my spare motor. since it ran fine in the car i got it out of, i assume that stuff is good. ill check out the charcoal canister in a few minutes. The shaking if from there rear, and i had it on jackstands and let in go in drive, around 60-70, just like when im driving, it started shaking badly. Whats that mean?

and im doing all this work so i can sell it, no one wants to buy a bad running car for $3000

 

ur wheel on tight and properly? i no that sounds stupid but it happened to my friends firebird the other day. he didnt tighten the lugnuts to specified torque and the rear wheel fell off. before it fell off it was shaking jsut as u described just an idea

 

yup that was definally the first thing i checked

 

nm i just sold it i got $2750 out of it

 

GOOD WORK