2.8 acting crazy after disconnect...
2.8 acting crazy after disconnect...
ok, I did some welding on the car the other night. I have heard bad stories about welding on computerized cars so I go one extra step. I disconnect the battery then I also unplug the computer just for safety sake. Did this back when I did the bodywork and no prob's. Also had the battery disconnected many times with no prob's. So when done, hooked the computer back up and then connected the battery.
Now it runs like crap.....bogs and chokes when hitting the gas in 1st (T5) and the idle keeps going up and down about 500rpm. It also threatens to stall after first starting it (the first idle dip)
MIL isn't on so there shouldn't be any codes. Any ideas? I am stumped here. Could this be something to do with the computer relearning? I have never ever had this problem before when disconnecting.
Now it runs like crap.....bogs and chokes when hitting the gas in 1st (T5) and the idle keeps going up and down about 500rpm. It also threatens to stall after first starting it (the first idle dip)
MIL isn't on so there shouldn't be any codes. Any ideas? I am stumped here. Could this be something to do with the computer relearning? I have never ever had this problem before when disconnecting.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Yeah, the car's all messed up in the head. Yank the negative cable again. After you hook it back up, go for a drive, a half hour away at 50mph - and then a half hour back home at 50 mph. That should do it for ya, enough time to re-learn everything. Stumbling around town isn't gonna do it. This is how I reset/re-learn (or is that re-teach?) my ECM... and I do the same thing you do when I weld on the car- I pull the negative cable AND pull the ECM connectors out.
Originally posted by camaro350man
If i weld my fender wells, should i do the same? And can i just dicconnect the batt and not the ECM? thanks
If i weld my fender wells, should i do the same? And can i just dicconnect the batt and not the ECM? thanks
. Originally posted by TomP
Yeah, the car's all messed up in the head. Yank the negative cable again. After you hook it back up, go for a drive, a half hour away at 50mph - and then a half hour back home at 50 mph. That should do it for ya, enough time to re-learn everything. Stumbling around town isn't gonna do it. This is how I reset/re-learn (or is that re-teach?) my ECM... and I do the same thing you do when I weld on the car- I pull the negative cable AND pull the ECM connectors out.
Yeah, the car's all messed up in the head. Yank the negative cable again. After you hook it back up, go for a drive, a half hour away at 50mph - and then a half hour back home at 50 mph. That should do it for ya, enough time to re-learn everything. Stumbling around town isn't gonna do it. This is how I reset/re-learn (or is that re-teach?) my ECM... and I do the same thing you do when I weld on the car- I pull the negative cable AND pull the ECM connectors out.
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 8,113
Likes: 6
From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
OOOps, I know about the battery thing but never remember. Or the EMC. I have seen guys unhook the batt but only when arc welding near the engine bay.
If the ground clamp is right near your work, the juice isnt flowing through but a few inches of metal. Right?
If the ground clamp is right near your work, the juice isnt flowing through but a few inches of metal. Right?
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Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 1
From: Castaic, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
If you're equipment is setup properly and has a good ground, then it shouldn't matter. Why do you think that muffler shops never disconnect the battery? Because they know what they are doing and get a good ground to begin with.
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