confucius101

ok so i have a shop by me and i've been talking with the guy for the last few weeks about my car and keeping it a 6 and adding a turbo and so on

now after looking at my car from top to bottom he gave me a punch list of what needs to be done and what he would recommend me doing and in what order LOL

so one of my questions was about a rebuild with full port n polish and forged internals and so fourth

he made some calls and offered me when i'm ready

a bullet prof rear end with posi and 342 gears rated for 550hp for 1400

a bullet tranny rated for the same 550hp for 2500

a new 3.1 fully worked or performance build LOL that should average around 60hp over stock and a 3year 100,000 mile warranty for 2500 plus install

He said he could work off this motor and give me a very strong and reliable 300hp running between (5-8psi)

Didn't really want to talk pricing for the turbo setup until i made up my mind about everything else LOL


So what should i be asking him and how does the price sound ??????????

project89

iTrader: (1)

way to much money

for one u an pick up a tci streetfighter trans rebuild kit for 300 bucks and have a trans shop install it for about 500, thats the same trans kit i run and it holds up to everything i can throw at it add in another 500 for a stall converter


for 1400 bucks it better not be a 10 bolt rear 18-1900 can get u a bolt in mosier 9 inch rear with that said im still running a stock rear with a mini spool no issues

motor skip the 3.1 go right to the 3.4 stock bottom end rebuild with good bearings like king rod cam and main bearings, plasma moly piston rings and arp rod bolts and main studs.

port the heads and get a cam like the delta cams 260 grind or something in the neibor hood of 260-272

port match manifold clean up the runners

that setup + a 60-1 turbo will make well over 330 hp and 425+ ftlbs of tq @ 9 psi

Project 3.4 Camaro

For that kind of money and power levels you could do a hybrid and have a lot more headroom for power once you turbocharged, and 2500 for a 3.1? If i had that much money to spend on the engine, I would start with a 3.4 block, 3500 aluminum heads and intake manifold, forged dished pistons, 3500 forged crank, and stock conrods are forged, and pretty strong, as long as you don't plan to rev over 7k you should be alright on them till you start making like say, 400 some odd hp. As for rear end and transmission, at 300 hp neither is really necessary as long as they're in good shape. Stock drivetrain can take about 300 hp before you have to beef it up. If you want a cheap and strong rear end, look at a ford one. As for transmission, do what project89 suggested, rebuild with a shift kit, and good to go.
As a side note, I'm not sure if 3.4 has forged conrods, might want to double check that, I was thinking 2.8/3.1. Throw some headers and a cam at that setup, and I wouldn't be surprised if it's around 250-300 before turbocharging. Imo the best v6 build for these cars is a 3.4/3500 hybrid, or maybe a 3.6 swap from a caddy CTS or camaro, but I have yet to see them available for sale, and GL finding one in a JY, so for now, 3.4/3500 for v6, but honestly unless you're adamant about having a v6, for that kind of money you should consider a v8. Me I'm building a 2.8/3400 hybrid for N/A, going to get it running real good, then after I've thrown all kinds of money at the rest of the car, I will pull the engine and drop in a 3.4 turbo, and reuse the heads and intake.

confucius101

wow ok well this is going to be a slow build so i'm not going for broke or anything and really would love the most bang for my buck you know

my main problem has been finding a shop / guy that actually knows these cars and what he's doing until now yes he is a little pricey but like i said he seems to really know his ****

as for the car well for right now my rear is shot and tranny is on it's way there as well so i figured i'd just have the whole thing rebuild

so i just had them get my car running and to go ahead with the rear rebuild

I thought about it for a few days and even tried locating a used setup but then i'd have to worry about what kind of real condition it was in and what not so i just told them to go with what i had and i'll just upgrade the breaks later on this year

I have not made up my mind on anything as far as motors go b/c i really do not understand most of of it but thats why i've been reading and why i started this post to ask for help and input

my main thing right now is reliability and longevity

I want something that will last and work when i want and need it to

to be honest i haven't been able to drive and enjoy my car for years
but thats about to change.......................

I know it's a lot of cash when you look at everything and yes i know i could go up to an 8 for that kind of $$ but when i got the car i wanted to play with it and see just what could be done with it and over the last few years you guys have been busy i mean when i first got the car 10 years ago there was nothing out there for us at all lol


so i started off with the tune up had custom headers made did a full exhaust and then added sfc and tds bars all around pretty much stopped there like 8years ago then played around with it a little here and there (new egr, hoses, injectors, seals, gaskets,batts, alt, tuneups) but never could get it running right LOL



ok so i know the 3.4 just bolts right in but i'm lost when you all start on the 3500 380's are you talking about just the heads or the whole engines and the tranny kit is 300 plus 500 for the converter and maybe another 500 for the install thats only 1300 and sounds great but all the shops i've been to all want 2500 for just a regular plain jane tranny

confucius101

hey whats the deal with the new cts DI300hp motor has anyone gotten it to work in a thirdgen yet ???

head hurts been reading way to much info.............................

confucius101

http://gas2.org/2010/03/26/gm-workin...-cadillac-xts/

Project 3.4 Camaro

The 3.6l direct injection v6 is only used in two models right now, Cadillac cts and 5th gen Camaro's, the engine is not cheap new, and I would be shocked if you managed to find a used one, you might find a supplier that sells it as a crate engine, but in this case especially, just get a v8, for the kind of work it would probably take to get it to work I'd just get an ls1 or maybe even an ls3.

As for hybrid, its 3.4 block, 3500 heads and intake manifolds for the ideal setup, however It's not for the feint of hear or knowledge, if you don't know have a firm grasp on engines, or know someone who does and is willing to do it without charging an arm and a leg then it's probably not the best route.
Now if you want great power from something relatively common and easy to find you might consider a 3400 or 3500 fwd v6 if you're that adamant about it being a v6, it would take some fabrication, but personally I think is the best engine choice at this time if doing a full swap and not a hybrid(hybrids require extensive knowledge and research, I've been reading up on it for almost a year and probably still don't know all there is to know about it). There is also the 90* 3800, 3900s and 4.3 vortecs, but personally I think the 60/6 is an overall better engine.

All of that said, in the end, you're best of just doing what will make YOU happy, not others, just don't bite off more than you can chew.

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

With only 8* of spark. Who knows what it could've done with that fixed.

I think you should start with a 3.4 block with a choice cam that will work well with whatever you choose to do and come back to the hybrid motor idea later when you're more prepared for it. In the meantime learn to tune your ecm.

DemonKnightDK

the 3900 is a 60/6 just the same as the 3500 just much larger bore and/or bore spacing. the 3.4/3500 or 3400 hybrid I would think would be easier than a strait 3400 swap.. the 3400 block was never meant for a RWD layout... it would probably look somthing like 3.5 DOHC in my 300M RWD layout in a FWD car.. there is no room what so ever and god help me when the battery needs replaced....

project89

iTrader: (1)

its is fixed we took the car out to e-town one time before i moved and needless to say it wrecked my 13.0 run without changing anything except fixing the ignition system. ive only mentioned this one time to somone as im not going to post up till i get the car out to the track next month

11:80-11:90's ( possibly better ) should be a reality at low boost (9 psi)

need some 65# injectors before i start running the car again though my 42's are maxed