Well i bought bl85cs turbo and his tubing and it all fit great. except this

im scared the pipe is going to get hot and melt the plastic/rubber around it. any ideas how to get around it? it doesnt have to look good, i just want it to work. my friends genius idea was to just stick a piece of thick metal in between it

ps dont mind the ugly color paint on the pipe...it was the only heat paint i had

 

your friend had a good idea...i have a metal tube in between the two rubber parts as mine rests right on the damn exhaust pipe as well

yes it will eventually melt, that thing gets f'ing hot

 

As added protection, there is a heat wrap stuff you can put over the hose that's supposed to be good to 700*F. But it's expensive.

 

use some cable ties and tie it up to something to get it off the pipe, if you can. ...and aren't worried about looks. thick metal will still get just as hot as the pipe, it'll just take longer. but, it'll take quite a while to cool off, too.

 

thanks alot guys. i guess ill just temporary use a piece of metal, till i can find a smart alternative. but just wondering, what is it?

 

what is the hose? it takes coolant to the heater core...for you heat.

 

sorry i should have specified, i meant the plastic thing behind the hose. looks like a UFO with a wire sticking out of it.

that hose i can just wire tie out of the way.

 

What's it attached to?

 

i actually have NO idea what its attached to. was kinda hoping you guys would know...



you can see the wire going up into a mass of other wires, that i also have no idea what are for, except the EGR.

 

Well it's a vac solenoid of some sort, I'm guessing for the heater core or air injection. Is it held down by a bracket or just attached to a rubber tube? You could bend it back a bit to get it out of the way. You need at least 2" of clearance from the turbo/exhaust to keep soft palstics like that from melting. Rubber and harder composite plastics can tolerate a little more heat, but I wouldn't get closer than an inch on anything.

 

its attached by a rubber tube. i tried bending it, but its restricted by the length of the tube. i might have to go find a longer piece of tubing so i can move it up higher next to the alternator. or....more zip ties

 

its the heater control valve, do urself a favor and bypass it with hoses u can plumb it so that the water always circulates threw the heater core, i forget exactly what u need but i think u need one 5/8's cap and 2 pieces of hose to do the bypass.

that valve basically stops water from going to the heater core when u put the temp control on cold

 

ill keep it there...until it melts.


More bad news.

hooked all the oil lines up today and started my car up for the first time in weeks and immediately the oil feed line starts leaking slightly. so i thought if i tightened the bolts up it might make it stop. bad idea! the metal that holds the screw in just crumbled into 3 pieces. now its only held on by 1 screw, so im not even going to bother to turn the car on till i can fix this..any ideas? and its this piece. (ill take pictures of the damage tomorrow)



im scared that the only way to truly fix this will be getting another turbo..

 

im not sure which part your talking about that broke, pic would def be helpful.

if its the turbo side you may be able to re tap the hole if its just stripped

if its the oil feed side you can get another one of those no problem

USE teflon tape on ALLLLLL of your oil lines feed and returns to keep leaks from happening.

 

Aww crap. I'm not sure what that adapter was made of but it was pretty soft. When I tapped it for the 90* fitting I hardly had to turn the tap. Maybe pot metal or something. You can but a similar adapter off ebay pretty cheap or make your own pretty easy.

 

yeah you cant go all incredible hulk on those parts....the ebay ones are pretty soft as well

 

ha that made me laugh, but i definitely learned my lesson.

you can see i tried to put another bolt on the bottom to hold it in place, but havnt tried to see if it leaks that way or not.


This is what its supposed to look like...(sorry its fuzzy)



like i said before...im scared im going to have to get another turbo. im hoping i can find another piece to weld onto the existing turbo.

any thoughts?

 

I think I can't tell what I'm looking at. Did a portion of the turbo break or did the adapter the brass fitting screws into break?

 

the piece on the turbo broke, where the adapter is supposed to bolt onto...the only thing i can think of doing is welding the adapter onto it so it cant possibly leak.

 

I doubt whatever the adapter is made of is weldable. You could tap the oil hole in the turbo itself, alot of people do it that way. Or maybe weld a stud on the turbo.

 

i think i could weld it on there. because the other adapter that i used for the oil return line accidently got cracked when i had to drill bigger holes in it. and i welded the crack back to normal. its some type of steel...im just not sure if welding it to the turbo will make a perfect seal and not leak any oil?

 

i wouldnt weld on the center housing of the turbo, for various reasons. i would go on ebay and pick up a used t3 turbo or one from the junkyard, the center section of the turbo is machined preccisley for the bearings and shaft. if u get it hot tnough unevenly the housing could twist or pull etc. not saying it will but its possible. and i wouldnt want to mess around with something that will spin 100k+ rpms ,

ur other option would be to pick up a 125 ebay special t3/t4 and bolt that inplace of the turbo u have now. to make it a bolt on deal u would just have to swap the hot side housing whiich is a few bolts.

 

i know this wont sound good, but is there no possible way i can just rig this up with this turbo to work? only for about a week or 2? i just need the car to drive to work and then i could buy another turbo later. i dunno, maybe JB weld, since that doesnt get hot? im just sick of having to drive my moms car the past 4 weeks .

 

take the oil inlet flange off and take a picture of it , most likley since its a garret brand turbo the oil inlet hole will be a standard size . u can then tap the hole with a pipe tipe and get a pipe to whatever the other fitting is on the oil feed line and screw it directly into the turbo without the eed for that flange, im assumi one of the mounting hole bolt holes is what broke . and the center of that turbo reaches 600+ degrees

 

Yess, that is exactly what broke. i just didnt really know what it was called or how to describe it.

i wont be able to get another picture (or even see my car) till friday, its locked up on weekdays and i can only work on it on weekends .

ive never heard of taping metal, sure doesnt sound like something an 18 year old can do by himself...i might have to take it somewhere and get them to do it. im just glad i wont have to replace the turbo. thanks alottt for all the information

 

if u can use a wrench u can tap the hole. u just need to buy the right tap and tap handle, but yeah it might be easier for u to just take it to a shop and let them tap the hole with a pipe tap and get the correct addapter u need so u can screw the oil feed line directly into the turbo housing

 

well i find a whole set of taps in my shed, so ill try and get someone with more knowledge to do it for me.

is there a chart or something to know which size to use? im guessing ill have to wait until i can measure the hole in the turbo before i can do anything.

and after i tap it do i just put teflon tape on the brass fitting and screw it in the hole? i think thats what im understanding so far..

 

yeah thats pretty much it u might have to get a different brass adapter though it all depends on what size the oil inlet hole on the turbo can be taped to. when i did mine i belive it was a 1/8 npt thread which is pipe thread ad i used a 1/8th to -3an adapter , blc can prolly tell u exactly what fitting u will need once u tap the hole and know what size its taped since e would know what kind of fitting is on the oil feed line .



btw when u get the turbo taped make sure they tap it with pipe thread .i.e npt tap. or u wont be able to get an adapter that screws into the turbo to connect the oil line

 

just saw the one pic and it looks liek u will need a 90* 1/8thinch npt to 5/16th inverted flare adapter. i could be wrong though gota ask blc what size tubing that is he used for the oil feed line

 

That's right.

 

thanks alot guys. ill probably end up showing you guys links to make sure im getting the correct stuff, since this is all new to me.

Cant wait to get this oil finished and the fix a small exhaust leak and im done

 

if the oil feed hole can be tapped to 1/8th inch npt u wont need to buy anything else just unscrew the brass fitting out of the flange and screw it into the turbo.
i do belive the oil feed hole is slightly larger then whats needed for 1/8th npt so they will proly have to tap it to the next size up, which just means u just have to get the next size up pipe to inverted flare adapter

 

I completely agree with bypassing it- that piece gets brittle, and even if it doesn't melt, one day, one of the hose fittings will snap right off and leave you stranded. Its only function was to keep the car "cooler" (think air conditioning) on a hot day by preventing the heater core from getting hot. Pre-1987 (example = my 1986) did not have that part (I've also heard it called a heater diverter valve) from the factory; my heater core lines don't have anything between the manifold or pump; less to break later! So yes block off the vacuum line and just run straight heater hose between the core and the manifold/pump.

 

lol that stupid lil thing left me stranded at 3 am on the way back from the shore because one of the fitings on it just snapped off.i bypass them on every f-body i buy if it still has it

 

No way! Those things seem to snap at the worst times! I was at a 3rd gen f-body meet *many* years ago, one guy popped the hood to show off his motor and saw that his heater valve was leaking coolant. He decided to try and tighten the hose clamp with a screwdriver. I told him no, b/c it could snap, he should wait until he got home. Well everyone else at the meet told him it'd be ok. He barely touched the screwdriver to the clamp and SNAP! Coolant went everywhere. I felt really bad for the guy; luckily there was a Pep Boys nearby and they had one in stock for him.

 

yup just driving down the road and all the sudden steam everywere, pull over and sure enough the plasic barb for the hose just broke off.

 

didnt think that thing was that important, let alone leave someone stranded..guess id better bypass it, even though i dont really understand how.

do you possibly know whats the next size up above 1/8?

 

good news and bad news...

good news; my first attempt at tapping a hole=fail.

i ended up just stripping all the thread off the brass fitting and hammering it carefully into the hole, then jb welding around it. ghetto, but it worked

bad news; put new manifold gaskets on. I started at 1 broken bolt in the head, and ended up with 3...1 i could live with, 3 is a bad idea. should i attempt to drill them out? or should i forfeit and ruin all my efforts and take the heads out...

 

I'd tell you to get the bolt out but I'm afraid of the bolts in the drill you use breaking too! Take it easy man, easy. You'll probably save yourself alot of frustration by removing the head.

 

as a machinist, let me just say that there's nothing more frustrating than someone bringing you a part that had a broken bolt then they broke a drill in it, too. makes it a lot harder to get out. a lot of times, it's difficult to save the threads in the hole then because the drill came through the side of the bolt...not centered

 

X1000000000! I get the same stuff and it's the most frustrating thing in the world when you can't use a torch to melt the f'er out.

 

that would be the smarter decision...because i dont even think i could get a drill in there, let alone see what im drilling. the bad part is all 3 are flush with the head, so i couldnt try and weld a nut onto the bolt and wrench it out.

any random guess' about how much its going to cost for them to remove the bolts?

 

ill lalso say take the head off and take it to a shop, cost depends on if they can remove the broken bolts without damaging the threads in the ole. if they have to redrill and helicoil the holes the cost will go up.

and also i highly advise u go get a new turbo, the center section of that turbo gets way to hot for jbweld and it will not hold. if that oil line starts to leak u wont know it when ur driving and u risk running the motor out of oil and doing alot of damage

 

already on it...friend said theres a 2.0T jetta in a junkyard near me, going to check it out tomorrow...probably wont be a complete bolt in though..

ill take anyyy rough estimates on price. i want to know how pissed my dads going to be

 

jetta if i rember right has like a gt17 or something similar on it its way to small.
u need a t3 off like a volvo , 2.2 dodge shadow or chyrsler new yorker etc
u can pick up t3's on ebay all day long for 30-40 bucks but if ur going to go threw all that trouble i suggest u just spend the 130 bucks for a brand new ebay t3/t4 that will pretty much bolt right on

just need to be sure the turbo u have now has a 5 bolt downpipe flange if so the eay unit will bolt right in

 

well i didnt even see a jetta, but i saw a volvo but the engine was destroyed/missing. im pissed i completly forgot to look for new heads because i think that would be cheaper then getting mine fixed.
(hopefully)

this is what broke. ive defintly learned my lesson..

 

that is totally fixable that center hole just needs to be drilled and taped to a pipe thread

 

ill have to somehow grind the jbweld off it first..might as well just search for another turbo.


is there any thing i should look for when pulling new heads?

and are they interchangeable? or do i specificly have to look for a passenger head...i dont really want to have to change the driver side since i think i can get that bolt out.

 

They're interchangeable.

 

what kind of shops do you guys work at? because i have called a few places and they said they cant(or wont) do that kind of stuff..maybe im trying the wrong places?

if i cant find someone to do this by friday im going to try it myself...and we all know how thats going to end up