Has anyone here ever replace their vacuume regulator valve, and if so, how much was it??? During my last tune up, I broke one of the connectors off of it, and now I'm throwing a code for the EGR. I've tried gluing it back on, but as usual, superglue works great on skin, but nothing else. I guess I'll just go to Kragen or something and try and locate it.

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ICQ #: 77308896
AIM: Ezekiel2sc
2.8L MPFI w/ K&N filters & homemade ram air
5 speed manual
3.42 rear axle
180W Clarion CD Deck
Pioneer 4*6 in front
Polk 3 way 6*9 in back

 

Try this....you need to get a 3 way adapter for your vacumn lines.
the connector that broke,is it the one that is on the side?The other end of this connecter goes to your egr valve,right?
What I did was I sealed the hole on the broken connecter.Then with the 3 way and a short piece of vacumn line have on line from the 3 way go to your egr valve then the other to the vacumn control thing and place the short piece on to the pump looking thing.

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Kevin S
10.9 @ 62.87 (1/8 mile)
89 RS 2.8(bored .030)
B&M shift Improver
B&M Mega Shifter
Perma Cool trans cooler
Accel Wires,
Ignition module,
Super coil
Streetrunner chip(for now)
Flowmaster
1.52 Roller rockers

Things You Will Never Hear a Man Say....

Damn, too bad this car isn't a four cylinder.

 

oooopppsss!!!!!

[This message has been edited by Kevin S (edited September 25, 2000).]

 

Thanks Kevin for the response. I got it all hooked up this morning by doing essentially what you described there. I went to Kragen and asked the people for a "Vacuume Regulator Valve" because that is what it was called in the vaccume diagram in my Chilton manual. Couldn't find it, so I had the dude take a look at it, and he says, "Oh, that's your MAP sensor." So it turns out it'll cost $90 to replace it. So he told me about putting the vacuume T on and rerouting the hose and everything. It took a little work, and it essentially looks like crap, but it's fixed for now.

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ICQ #: 77308896
AIM: Ezekiel2sc
2.8L MPFI w/ K&N filters & homemade ram air
5 speed manual
3.42 rear axle
180W Clarion CD Deck
Pioneer 4*6 in front
Polk 3 way 6*9 in back

 

So a bad MAP can also throw an EGR code? Didn't know that, thanks!

Oh, or was it the vacuum wasn't going to the EGR, and that's how the code was set?


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards

 

Well, the MAP sensor is hooked up to the EGR valve and the throttle body (or maybe that line goes to the manifold, I can't see the end of it). Then there's a line going from the MAP sensor to some kind of electrical lookin' thing near the firewall. This was the line that was disconnected. But I was throwing a code 32 because of it. According to my trusty TPI swapper's guide, a code 32 indicates problems with the EGR circuit. So if the Kragen guy was correct about the part being the MAP sensor, then yes, the MAP sensor can cause an EGR code to be set.

 

Oh, okay, makes sense.. I guess in the whole daisy-chain of the vacuum hose, one leak anywhere would screw up the whole system.

When I was in the junkyard yesterday, I saw a 2.8 Camaro that had some vacuum line work done. Instead of replacing a hard line, the dude used some heat-shrink to attach a rubber vacuum line to the EGR solenoid, and did the same at the other end. I thought it was interesting, & something to keep in mind.. maybe I'll carry some vacuum line in my "emergency tool kit".


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards