Engine knock
#1
Engine knock
Out of nowhere, my 1987 Camaro 2.8 V6 started knocking. Lifters and rods are doubtful because the car's odometer hasn't rolled over. Still under 100k miles. I found info that improper vacuum can be the cause. I may have a leaking injector but its not confirmed.
#2
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Re: Engine knock
Lifter tick or rod/main bearing could easily be a problem, it all depends on how the engine has been maintained. Is it there all the time or just at idle, only under load, etc? You can use a long handle screw driver to try and locate the noise. Put one end to different areas on the engine (valve cover, injector area, etc) and put the handle end to your ear. You'll hear it get louder if you get near what's causing the noise. Injectors can cause a noise, but its more of a higher pitched tick than a lower tone knock. Does it seem to be more of a tick (higher pitch) or knock (lower tone)?
#3
Re: Engine knock
Well. I've been trying to bring it back to working order. It sat for a few years before I managed to get money to get it started. I didn't run it if there was an issue. It never ran rough or hard started before. Started it yesterday, ran long enough to know there wasn't a tick. It died afterwards. Sat for awhile and vacuum lines weren't fully fixed. The intake manifold kind of backfires out of the front. Towards the MA sensor. I can feel the backfire when I put my hand on the hose that connected the intake to the air filters.
#4
Re: Engine knock
But to answer your question. Its a higher tone tick. It never did that before. Now it does it. And I don't have money to fix it. Nor the knowhow. Can't sell it because there's no title, need to pass emissions in order to get said title. If it can't run to pass, I don't know what to do.
#5
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Re: Engine knock
You can always check the oil for little metal flecks, that will be a good indication if something happened internally. Otherwise I'd try the screwdriver trick, see if you can narrow down where it's coming from. As far as backfiring, you may have a vacuum leak or timing issue. Have you checked the base timing with the EST disconnected? To find a vacuum leak, spray carb cleaner around and if the idle fluctuates, you have a vacuum leak in that area.
#6
Re: Engine knock
I'm no mechanic, I can't fix internal problems. I've had this car for over two years and it isn't on the road yet. Is this even worth it anymore? I don't have money to fix it. Nor can I get enough from it if I sell it. I'm screwed aren't I?
#7
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Re: Engine knock
Not necessarily screwed. They're not overly complicated, it's all pretty old technology so there is a ton of info out there to help you with it. Start out with the screwdriver trick I mentioned, you basically use the screwdriver as a stethoscope to hear where a noise is coming from. Also use the carb cleaner around vacuum lines and intake gaskets to find leaks. If you don't have a timing light, you can rent them for free at autozone or similar. Search in here to find write ups on how to set timing, there is a single wire connector you have to unplug in order to properly check it. It's right above the heater box under the hood. Start with these and then we can go from there depending on what you find and are able to rule out.
Also, do you ever get a check engine light? If so, check codes, using a paper clip inserted in the upper right two pins of the connector under the dash. Watch for the engine light to flash and you'll count the flashes to get the code. It'll flash 12 three times, then whatever code is set three times, then 12 again when it's done. I'm sure there's youtube videos showing it more clearly than I explained it.
Also, do you ever get a check engine light? If so, check codes, using a paper clip inserted in the upper right two pins of the connector under the dash. Watch for the engine light to flash and you'll count the flashes to get the code. It'll flash 12 three times, then whatever code is set three times, then 12 again when it's done. I'm sure there's youtube videos showing it more clearly than I explained it.
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#8
Re: Engine knock
My brother did the screwdriver trick. But he didn't say much. As the car ran, he took a plug wire off one at a time. I think he took off plug number 4 before it started to run a bit smoother, though the tick was still there. The top of the manifold where the vacuum lines go to a sort of plug in is loose, and whatever I try, it doesn't stay in place.
#9
Re: Engine knock
Good news is that the ticking is no longer there. I fixed up the vacuum lines a bit, but it still dies after running smooth for a few seconds. Its cold out here, is that the reason?
#10
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Car: 94 Camaro
Engine: 3.5 turbo
Transmission: Performabuilt 4l60E
Axle/Gears: Strange rear, 3.42
Re: Engine knock
You said the car sat for a few years. Did you replace the old gas with fresh? What condition are the spark plugs in? Where are you located?
#11
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Car: 88 T firebird
Engine: 2.8
Transmission: t5
Re: Engine knock
I would think you need to run it for a good while with fresh fuel to clear out any gunk, a fuel filter is prob a must too.
i have experienced a 'tick' where a lifter was just not pumping up, some times when it's sat a while it takes a minute for the oil to get everywhere . I did remove all my lifters this year to inspect and clean them out. Hasn't ticked since.
i have experienced a 'tick' where a lifter was just not pumping up, some times when it's sat a while it takes a minute for the oil to get everywhere . I did remove all my lifters this year to inspect and clean them out. Hasn't ticked since.
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