Is this bad for the engine?
Is this bad for the engine?
Currently I have my car in storage. I go to start the thing up once a week or every two weeks. Just to let the car idle in nuetral. I am just wondering does this hurt the engine because the oil probably runs off the stuff inside it and it'll be a pretty dry start. Should I just pull the battery like the years before and start it up when I'm ready to drive it in the summer? Thanks alot, and Wayne it was nice of what you did. Peace Out.
Sure.
Disconnect the battery, also.
If your have to reprogram the radio etc, big deal. You'll be doing that anyway, after your battery runs dead.
Honest, it takes a bit to fully recharge a battery.
All you're doing (battery) now is slowly discharging it. Unless you run a trickle charger.
The engine is quite ok.
Fill the gas tank.
Upon restart (after sleep), drive the car for along time (highway), then fresh oil!
Modern cars are not flaky, weak.
Disconnect the battery, also.
If your have to reprogram the radio etc, big deal. You'll be doing that anyway, after your battery runs dead.
Honest, it takes a bit to fully recharge a battery.
All you're doing (battery) now is slowly discharging it. Unless you run a trickle charger.
The engine is quite ok.
Fill the gas tank.
Upon restart (after sleep), drive the car for along time (highway), then fresh oil!
Modern cars are not flaky, weak.
Re: Is this bad for the engine?
Originally posted by Jaren Bon Jovi
Currently I have my car in storage. I go to start the thing up once a week or every two weeks. Just to let the car idle in nuetral. I am just wondering does this hurt the engine because the oil probably runs off the stuff inside it and it'll be a pretty dry start. Should I just pull the battery like the years before and start it up when I'm ready to drive it in the summer? Thanks alot, and Wayne it was nice of what you did. Peace Out.
Currently I have my car in storage. I go to start the thing up once a week or every two weeks. Just to let the car idle in nuetral. I am just wondering does this hurt the engine because the oil probably runs off the stuff inside it and it'll be a pretty dry start. Should I just pull the battery like the years before and start it up when I'm ready to drive it in the summer? Thanks alot, and Wayne it was nice of what you did. Peace Out.
...My car died today in traffic , I cranked it right back up .But I hear errrr and the lady behind me almost didn't stop in her 4runner
When you first start it after a while I have heard of people pulling the coil wire off and cranking it to start pumping oil around the motor without the load of combustion on the moving parts. I think the ecm should prevent it from flooding the motor.
Wayne, does it even snow in Louisiana? We dont have that fire problem here yet. We have alot of garages at our cottage. So thats alright with me I can see it whenever I want. Later.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 123
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From: Wappingers Falls ,NY
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 5.0
Transmission: Manual
Axle/Gears: 3.45
make sure you keep running it- my car was in storage for 2 years before i drove it an i had to replace the rear main seal behind the crank cause of a major oil leak- keep it running!
Originally posted by Jaren Bon Jovi
Wayne, does it even snow in Louisiana? We dont have that fire problem here yet. We have alot of garages at our cottage. So thats alright with me I can see it whenever I want. Later.
Wayne, does it even snow in Louisiana? We dont have that fire problem here yet. We have alot of garages at our cottage. So thats alright with me I can see it whenever I want. Later.
Last edited by WaynesRS; Feb 14, 2002 at 10:12 PM.
Originally posted by thatsme
When you first start it after a while I have heard of people pulling the coil wire off and cranking it to start pumping oil around the motor without the load of combustion on the moving parts. I think the ecm should prevent it from flooding the motor.
When you first start it after a while I have heard of people pulling the coil wire off and cranking it to start pumping oil around the motor without the load of combustion on the moving parts. I think the ecm should prevent it from flooding the motor.
Like a lot of things regarding cars, this topic is debated by professionals. Cars were designed to be driven and certain parts (mostly seals, etc) are going to dry out if you store it. Unfortunately, just starting the engine once a week or two won't really solve this. in the 90's I had a job that kept me travelling (by plane) from Sun - Fri. Had seal leakage probs in my FieroGT after only 3-4 yrs because it sat all week and only ran on the weekends.
If you do put it into storage, either drain the gas tank or add a can of fuel stabilizer. Most articles I've read also say:
pull the plugs and squirt a little oil in the cylinders (it will smoke when you start it up, but not to worry) put the plugs back in loosely
put it on jackstands to take the weight off the suspension and tires
toss some moth ***** in the interior if there's a chance rodents and bugs might make it a home
When you pull it out of storage, pull the plugs and crank it over to get the oil flowing. Then fire it up and do as KED said...run it then change the fluids
If you do put it into storage, either drain the gas tank or add a can of fuel stabilizer. Most articles I've read also say:
pull the plugs and squirt a little oil in the cylinders (it will smoke when you start it up, but not to worry) put the plugs back in loosely
put it on jackstands to take the weight off the suspension and tires
toss some moth ***** in the interior if there's a chance rodents and bugs might make it a home
When you pull it out of storage, pull the plugs and crank it over to get the oil flowing. Then fire it up and do as KED said...run it then change the fluids
FUnny how ya mentioned lift car off ground....
That detail kills seals on the shocks.
My 1967 RS/SS Camaro COnvertible 4-speed has sat for about 10 years.
here's what I did.
I had engine out & tranny too.
Sold the JUNK 350 (NOT original), tranny to storage.
I had new tires on the car, anyway.
They never went flat and the tires are Michelin GTV's.
Car sat on ground the whole time.
The coils were "extended" due to no engine. They go to my Wife's 1968 w/6 cylinder
The rear springs are new and the rear tires never went flat eithere.
I recently removed the wheels & tires, put them on my Wife's 1968 Camaro for a show.
No Lumpy run flat spots, no troubles at all.
I was told, because I keep tires inflated, they turned out ok. This is from a 10 year no movement period, again.
Plus tires were not bias belted tires.
I also stuffed newspaper into the tail exhaust pipes, headers (in engine bay hooked up to the pipe system) and stuffed paper into the in-out of the radiator. Interior turned out ok, but some bleach cleaning will take care of the mold, along with leaving outside and letting sun into car, top down.
I also had the car protected by
cardboard on the convertible top (replaced after each winter rains), blue tarps & then a quality car cover. The quality car cover is the big secret. Not the thin bed sheets one!
I can't wait to start work on it, after I secure my Wife's 1968 Camaro (subframe bushings & the disc brakes).
Make sure if you use the blue tarps, be aware of the brass rings, they rust!! That's why cardboard base, then tarps then cover.
That detail kills seals on the shocks.
My 1967 RS/SS Camaro COnvertible 4-speed has sat for about 10 years.
here's what I did.
I had engine out & tranny too.
Sold the JUNK 350 (NOT original), tranny to storage.
I had new tires on the car, anyway.
They never went flat and the tires are Michelin GTV's.
Car sat on ground the whole time.
The coils were "extended" due to no engine. They go to my Wife's 1968 w/6 cylinder
The rear springs are new and the rear tires never went flat eithere.
I recently removed the wheels & tires, put them on my Wife's 1968 Camaro for a show.
No Lumpy run flat spots, no troubles at all.
I was told, because I keep tires inflated, they turned out ok. This is from a 10 year no movement period, again.
Plus tires were not bias belted tires.
I also stuffed newspaper into the tail exhaust pipes, headers (in engine bay hooked up to the pipe system) and stuffed paper into the in-out of the radiator. Interior turned out ok, but some bleach cleaning will take care of the mold, along with leaving outside and letting sun into car, top down.
I also had the car protected by
cardboard on the convertible top (replaced after each winter rains), blue tarps & then a quality car cover. The quality car cover is the big secret. Not the thin bed sheets one!
I can't wait to start work on it, after I secure my Wife's 1968 Camaro (subframe bushings & the disc brakes).
Make sure if you use the blue tarps, be aware of the brass rings, they rust!! That's why cardboard base, then tarps then cover.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
If you don't start it up for a long time, you could always prime the oil pump before you start it... if you're worried.
You need to remove the distributor. Hook a 10mm socket (I think!) to a long extension, and somehow hook that to your power drill. Put the 10mm socket & extension into the hole from the distributor to engage the oil pump drive. Now, spin the oil pump clockwise. That'll send oil thru the engine. If you have a mechanical gauge (or maybe even an electrical gauge, with the battery in the car, and the key turned to "on"), you can see the needle move.
You need to remove the distributor. Hook a 10mm socket (I think!) to a long extension, and somehow hook that to your power drill. Put the 10mm socket & extension into the hole from the distributor to engage the oil pump drive. Now, spin the oil pump clockwise. That'll send oil thru the engine. If you have a mechanical gauge (or maybe even an electrical gauge, with the battery in the car, and the key turned to "on"), you can see the needle move.
I have the car sitting on carpet with a carcover I have been doing this for 6 years. And the people before me stored it the same way. This year I didn't put any fuel stabilizer in it because I start it up every one or two weeks and let it idle in nuetral for 10 minutes. I had the car in storage since the middle of September I will take it out in May. I lived in Florida for a year after High School to go to school. I took my other car (winter car) down there and the Firebird sat for about a year and a half. So far there has been no problems, but one time I had to get the coolant sensor fixed. This year I plan to drive it all Summer when I get my cam fixed and my headers and all my other performance stuff installed. Thanks alot for the suggestions Everybody I really appreciate it.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,731
Likes: 0
From: LaFayette, NY
Car: '10 Subaru Forester
Engine: 2.5 Boxer
Transmission: 4EAT
Axle/Gears: 4.44
If you're concerned about flat tires, put jack stands under the axles instead of jack points... it will keep suspension compressed and the tires off the floor... personally I drive (NY SALTED ROADS!) my car all winter... people would kill me if they saw how dirty the 'bird gets... it was a two tone white/dark grey earlier this week literally... IT'S A BLACK CAR!
I do take spray-on anti-rust precautions though. And of course wash wash wash.
-Chill
I do take spray-on anti-rust precautions though. And of course wash wash wash.
-Chill
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