what to use to remove rust deposits in block?
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Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323's
what to use to remove rust deposits in block?
well i'm about done removing the head gasket residue off my block and was looking at the funk inside the block (all the rust) and need to know if there is something i can put in there to let it soak and flush it out. the block is on a stand, so i won't need to run the chemicals thru the entire cooling system. also, shouldn't that drain plug on the driver side actually be functional to drain the block? i had to drain it from the knock sensor cuz nothing came out of the "drain plug".
more questions to follow as this project unfolds...
KAM
more questions to follow as this project unfolds...
KAM
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Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323's
well i forgot to say the crank and pistons are still in it - thought about that right after i posted... but i can probably call them anyways and ask.
KAM
KAM
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 305 Tbi (L03)
Transmission: 700r4
That drain plug should definatly drain coolant. Your cooling system must have some blockage in it. I think the only way to go here is disasemble and hottank.
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Each drain plug drains only one side of the block. If you didn't drain the coolant out of the driver's side, then..... it's still there.
Take a coat hanger wire or something and rod the pass side hole out, in the upward direction. You'll get another gallon of coolant out of it.
The only way to drain the pass side of the block, is to take the knock sensor out of the drain hole that it lives in. That's what you're supposed to do.
Those 2 drain holes have been in SBC blocks since 1955. They just didn't realize at the time that the pass side one was for the knock sensor, they only "discovered" that fairly recently, in 81 or whenever the first CC carb V8s came out. It's funny how people nowadays somehow think that older blocks might not have that hole, or they call it the "knock sensor port" instead of coolant drain.
Take a coat hanger wire or something and rod the pass side hole out, in the upward direction. You'll get another gallon of coolant out of it.
The only way to drain the pass side of the block, is to take the knock sensor out of the drain hole that it lives in. That's what you're supposed to do.
Those 2 drain holes have been in SBC blocks since 1955. They just didn't realize at the time that the pass side one was for the knock sensor, they only "discovered" that fairly recently, in 81 or whenever the first CC carb V8s came out. It's funny how people nowadays somehow think that older blocks might not have that hole, or they call it the "knock sensor port" instead of coolant drain.
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Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323's
Originally posted by dankhound
That drain plug should definatly drain coolant. Your cooling system must have some blockage in it. I think the only way to go here is disasemble and hottank.
That drain plug should definatly drain coolant. Your cooling system must have some blockage in it. I think the only way to go here is disasemble and hottank.
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
that "plug" is sealed off
It is not sealed. It's blocked from large acculmulations of rust and scale and other foreign matter.
As mentioned above, all SBC motors for all time, have had one drain plug on each side of the block. Yours isn't the only special one in the whole universe whose drain plug is not a drain plug. Believe that.
If you don't un-block it, the one bank of cyls will not drain.
Go rod it out with a coat hanger, or a drill bit if the coat hanger doesn't get it. It's a drain plug, make it drain, and get all the coolant out.
As far as rust removal, once you get the plug out and the block torn down including all the freeze plugs out of it (which by the way will enable you to see down through the water jacket to the drain plug holes), take it to the quarter car wash; blast the hell out of all the collant jackets, then put some CLR or something of that nature in them, wait an hour or so, then blast it some more; keep doing that until you can see metal around the cyls again.
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Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323's
ok - well thanks for the insight. i was planning on keeping the rotating assy. in the block. i basically broke it down to fix all the leaks and have the heads redone. don't want to break it all the way down unless i absolutely have to. i'll clear the "plug" out and go from there.
KAM
KAM
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