Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
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I got the formula running today finally, turned out it was a combo of bad rotor, cap, and gas...she fired up then my distributor blew up...so finally after replacing that i had her running but i cant get the timing right...shes got maybe 75% of the power she should have..in addition, when u give her gas in neutral , u can hear the motor bog down before it revs up.
My mechanic friend said i needed to adjust the idle with the idle up solenoid ( what he called it) he specifically said adjust the idle with this...NOT the idle air control unit and then go to time it. he said it was located near the firewall where the throttle linkage comes through but i couldnt find anything. Is this only on carburated cars because mine uses TPI.
also, when i go to unplug the EST (single wire black/tan lead), the thing that advances the timing, the car just dies on me...
So i guess i need to advance the timing higher to prevent it from stalling when unplugging the EST, but reduce the idle so its not through the roof...is this possible without touching the IAC or is my information incorrect? Or am i just off all together lol.
Also, i dont think the problem is any vacuum lines
With my 91 305 TPI, when unplugging the est, it will die if the timing is not right. It will stay running only when the timing is correct. There is a technical article on this site labeled IAC and TPS adjustment that outlines the steps for those tasks. I have messed with the idle a little bit, it is not hard. I would get the timing set, then adjust the idle using the instructions on this site if it is still high. Also, mine idles at 1100-1200 when cold and drops to 555-650 in gear once warmed up, take that into account.
I am sure there will be others help out here, this is just my 2 cents based on experience with my car.
I dont know anything about the carb models so I am no help there. Sorry.
I got the formula running today finally, turned out it was a combo of bad rotor, cap, and gas...she fired up then my distributor blew up...so finally after replacing that i had her running but i cant get the timing right...shes got maybe 75% of the power she should have..in addition, when u give her gas in neutral , u can hear the motor bog down before it revs up.
My mechanic friend said i needed to adjust the idle with the idle up solenoid ( what he called it) he specifically said adjust the idle with this...NOT the idle air control unit and then go to time it. he said it was located near the firewall where the throttle linkage comes through but i couldnt find anything. Is this only on carburated cars because mine uses TPI.
also, when i go to unplug the EST (single wire black/tan lead), the thing that advances the timing, the car just dies on me...
So i guess i need to advance the timing higher to prevent it from stalling when unplugging the EST, but reduce the idle so its not through the roof...is this possible without touching the IAC or is my information incorrect? Or am i just off all together lol.
Also, i dont think the problem is any vacuum lines
I started to answer and ran out of time..I had a hard time finding the correct timing (static) for my wife's 1989 Formula 305 TPI vin F . I finally setted on all data's setting of 10 dbtdc. I found the advance wire disconnection location under the blower motor on the passenger side. It was a quick disconnect single pole coneection. I now have the timing set to 8 degrees before tdc and it seem to be OK ..
I was told not to adjust the idle through the IAC or TPS...the problem is when i set the timing to where the car runs well, the idle will be around 1200 which is way to high...i will take a look tomorrow and remember whatyou said about the idle calming down once its warmed up but it sounds like i need to advance it since i cant keep it running while the EST is unplugged, thanks for the advice guys
Also, setting the timing to 8 degrees with the EST unplugged (the factory setting) stalls out the car...why would facotry settings cause it to stall out
Last edited by 89 formula TPI; 06-05-2009 at 02:28 AM.
older motor, worn parts...try10 to14 degrees BTDC and if it idles better...next, do your rockers,..probably loose and you're loosing compression thru here as well...after tightening rockers/ replacing them...your timing should be working at around 9-11 deg. BTDC. good luck
...shes got maybe 75% of the power she should have..in addition, when u give her gas in neutral , u can hear the motor bog down before it revs up.
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