that one only cost me 300 bux, but i got cheap paint.
and this is a picture of my newer car, it was red when i got it and i painted it with some 550$ paint.it came out pretty good.

that looks sweet is your windshield tinted?

thanx
no,just the angle

You have a thing for yellow! Its a nice yellow. What is it called. I'm planning to do my Scout II in the nissan Exterra yellow. Solor yellow I think they call it.

Paint your t-top edges...you can see the faded black! That would make it look even better!

yeah i like yellow. i dont see alot of yellow thirdgens.
the one w/ flames is competition yellow from the older vettes, and the 91z is yellow tint from the newer vettes and chevy ssr trucks. but im redoing the 91 millenium yellow.its the yellow on the vettes between the two colors i have now.

"ahhh, the power of yellow."

and you thought it was, "the power of cheeze" Most cheeze is yellowish and the comercials just got it wrong.

I really have a hard time passing on a Yellow Formula... My heart just goes pitter patter...


John

I was quoted 4000$ by a shop near me (someone on here had their car painted there, and by coincidence a guy I work with knows the kid and has seen the car). That price includes taking the bumpers/gfx off, replacement of badges, iroc decals, trim/molding etc, basecoat/clearcoat (stripping all the flats to bare metal, sanding everything else), a new front bumper, a new door skin, and numerous dings. By no means is my car a simple "sand and spray".

I plan on taking my car to get painted in May as soon as my semester ends.

What do people consider a "daily driver"? I keep seeing people say that for a car thats going to get "insert damage here" that they can't fathom spending more then XXXX on paint. I mean, 4000$ is a pretty good chunk of change, if I wanted an even better job I could pay more, but 4000$ is right around what I believe to be reasonable considering I have probably over 1000$ worth of panel damage included in that price.

In 30 months of owning my car I've driven 10,000 miles. I know people my age who drive 12,000 miles a year, 15 miles to work everyday then 20 miles to college, not counting the driving they do on weekends and for fun. I mean, theres a big difference between people who drive alot of miles all the time for work/school in heavy traffic and highways getting debris and RAOG, then theres someone like me who drives 3/4 of a mile to work, and less than 5 miles to college. So maybe 50 miles of total driving a week for college/work, then another 100 give or take for fun. I dunno, I would like to get a 2nd car once I get the Iroc painted so I can store it during the winter in a nice warm garage, but I'll have to see how my finances are when the time comes.

daily driver typically means 12,000 or so a year... I put on much more than that though... more like 20,000

one thing I was wondering... has anyone ever thought of rhino-lining a vehicle... not necessarily our third-gens, but any vehicle... like the GFX or something to accent it... or maybe the whole car... That stuff is guaranteed forever, to not crack, break, or fade colors... plus I'd love to see someone try and dent my car...

it would add like 100 pounds to the car, but eh.... its also cheaper than paint, by a lot

Well I'm averaging 4,000 miles a year....technically it's a daily driver, I just don't drive alot. I dunno, I do all my leisure driving at night past 8-9pm when there is no traffic, cruising around town and stuff, I do very little driving during the day when parking lots are full and stuff and I don't drive on the highway, so I guess I'm just not worried about a rock chip or some jerk dinging the door of a 4000$ paintjob. I dunno, thats just me, I just don't see the point of paying for a half *** job, if I don't want my car to look good, then I would just leave it looking like a POS and not paint it at all.

Hey I've been throwing the idea around for while to save some cash. I also have a compressor All that I need now is the proper gun and paint supplies. I'll be sticking with the factory color of black, which has been said to be the best way to go for a daily driver due to it use. I have to say I am very patiant when it comes to this type of detail and prep work. I'm located in up state NY. so the snow will keep me honest on the body work during the winter months. When it comes to painting you mention the spraying of the flex agent. 1. How is the flex agent applied, after the base coat has dried or while it is still wet? 2. If so do I continue the same process for the clear coat? 3. Or do I apply the flex agent after I apply both the base and clear coat.


Any and all advise welcomed. I'm sorry to still someone thread.

Thanks!:hail:

I'm not expert but you need a pretty heavy duty compressor to spray paint with. Enough CFM and either a huge tank or stong motor to continously coat.

I think some of the newer paints have flex in them, it doesn't have to be a separate step.

Primer and basecoat might require a different spraygun. Someone else can prob go into more detail.

The flex agent is added to the primer coat and the clear coat, you actually pour some into the paint and mix it in.

John

You will need a larger compressor as stated above. The ability of the compressor to keep up with the depand is very important. With smaller compressors you can get away with spraying small parts, but not a whole. car. Not and be able to get it to shoot well. If the compressor is not big enough it will not properly vaporize the paint. You will actually have the gun spiting the paint on. This happened to a friend who borrowed a compressor and it was not big enough!

Also with a compressor...you need to ghave an adequate water trap. Joe and I had to get one to put in line before the gun. The compressor we used on the parts was a laydown style and it gererated alot of water and was next to impossible to drain out. We had to spray for a bit. Stop drain the tank. Spray, stop drain the tank. The water will end up in the gun and in the paint. You don;'t want this. We discovered it spraying primer thank goodness. So I could sand away the gravelly texture it left us with. Would have been a disaster on a base or clear!

As John said flex coat is mixed directly in the primer and clear.

redaif,

I want to thank you all for replying so quickly. I believe al my question have been answered, but one. I have a 6HP, 33Gal, 150psi Craftsman stand up compressor w/ a 6 star rating. My owners manual said its good for professional painting with pressure set at 40ps.i

ive done all mine w/ that same compressor,but mine is the laydown one. once and a while you gotta stop and let it air up. but thats it.

Well I'm glad someone could answer that.

I've only worked with the big boys before, except for the dinky one we use for the small parts and accessories.

Just be sure to get a water trap, just in case! We got ours from Auto Color where we buy our painting suppiles!

Thanks fellas, that helps me out alot.

flex agent i use at work is sprayed on before the paint, its also a adhesion promoter, called BULLDOG.

has anyone checked out the DIY paint stickys and technical articles on here? Theres some good sites and tutorials on DIY painting and price of parts is cheap! I know of a site that explains how to get great results for less than $400, which includes tools.

A friend of mine did maaco on his 87 bird and paid $800. it shows. within only 3 weeks his t-tops were peeling as well as edges on the fenders and elsewhere. Its just not a quality job.

I just never understood shops that make project/show cars and say theyre doing a $10k or $20k paint job. Is that $20k in materials? How could paint possibly cost that much. You know its not in labor because their own guys are doing it. Ive seen many DIY jobs with great results and for less than $800. my .02

The chppe way to paint the car is to mask everything off and go... The Quality way to do a show paintjob is to remove everything and then paint... You get MUCH better results, There are somethings where you can skimp on (like the windshield), but for the most part you will get better results removing everything. That takes time...

John

But if you're driving only at night, who's gonna see your 4000 dollar paintjob?

No this just helps it stick to a surface like plastic or rubber. The same company does however make a flex agent. I have both in the basement!

We painted my car in some pieces. Bumper covers off, gfx off, hood separate, spoiler & deck lid done separte too. But we left on the doors and the weather stripping. Boy was it a pain taping all that up properly. And believe me I wish we had taken off the doors! We have to go back and rejam everything now! What a pain!

a paint job is all in the prep.
you can buy the best paint in the world with the best gun and the best painter. but if you dont have a good base to begin with your screwed!!. spent a lot of time making sure your lines are straight your surface is smooth and perfect!!
then paint away . anyone can spray the paint thats the easiest part

My whole car is just such an eyesore to me, drives me crazy. To be to just look at my car with pride is worth that much in itself.

Your paint looks great, mind sharing how much it set you back?

I agree that the prep and making sure the car is straight is key. Does not matter how good you lay it down if the bodywork is crap! But at teh same time perfect body work can be ruined by a bad painter. Not having the gun at the right pressure, or having the wrong reducer can make your paint look like it was painted by a windex bottle! Too close or heavy you run it...to far or light and you dry spray...does take a touch of skill to paint. Not as much as body work prep though!