I have an issue with my front 1LE brakes not working well. It seems like they are not fully engaging or maybe a bit lazy. Here's a bit of info in regards to the entire system.
-Powerslot front rotors
-EBC "Red Stuff" front pads
-Rear brakes are an Eastwood kit P/N 910-31935 11 3/4" rotor with '78 and up Metric calipers
-Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve mounted on the rear line
-Hurst line lock mounted on front line
-1988 Dodge Caravan manual master cylinder 15/16" bore size
-Brand new refurbished 1LE calipers
I basically went with the Eastwood kits because it is super cheap and the brakes actually work really well. I initially had a 1 1/8" bore master and the pedal was really hard, but the car wouldn't stop that well. Thinking this was the issue, I swapped the 1 1/8 for the 15/16. It definitely helped, but the car just doesn't stop like it should. I've played around with the proportioning valve to see how the car responds, but can't turn it in more than a 1/4 of the way because it will lock the rears if I smack the brakes hard. I have not been able to get the fronts to lock or even chirp the front tires. It will lock the rears and just drag the back of the car.
This is a decent-sized brake with good pads and rotors, so I know it should be working better than it is. If anyone has any thoughts or has run into a similar issue with a manual swap, please speak up!!!
-Powerslot front rotors
-EBC "Red Stuff" front pads
-Rear brakes are an Eastwood kit P/N 910-31935 11 3/4" rotor with '78 and up Metric calipers
-Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve mounted on the rear line
-Hurst line lock mounted on front line
-1988 Dodge Caravan manual master cylinder 15/16" bore size
-Brand new refurbished 1LE calipers
I basically went with the Eastwood kits because it is super cheap and the brakes actually work really well. I initially had a 1 1/8" bore master and the pedal was really hard, but the car wouldn't stop that well. Thinking this was the issue, I swapped the 1 1/8 for the 15/16. It definitely helped, but the car just doesn't stop like it should. I've played around with the proportioning valve to see how the car responds, but can't turn it in more than a 1/4 of the way because it will lock the rears if I smack the brakes hard. I have not been able to get the fronts to lock or even chirp the front tires. It will lock the rears and just drag the back of the car.
This is a decent-sized brake with good pads and rotors, so I know it should be working better than it is. If anyone has any thoughts or has run into a similar issue with a manual swap, please speak up!!!
Moderator
Make sure to bed the pads in, makes a big difference.
The other is the 1LE caliper piston size, it is small at 1.5" each. Should go to at the largest a 7/8" bore M/C. May need to drop to a 3/4" M/C.
Also, did you move the pivot point on the brake pedal arm? Needs to be in the 6:1 area of leverage.
RBob.
The other is the 1LE caliper piston size, it is small at 1.5" each. Should go to at the largest a 7/8" bore M/C. May need to drop to a 3/4" M/C.
Also, did you move the pivot point on the brake pedal arm? Needs to be in the 6:1 area of leverage.
RBob.
That's true, the pads do need to bed in. I forgot to mention earlier, but I did move the pivot point up to get to the 6:1 ratio. If remember correctly, I think it was about 1 1/4-1 1/2" up. I didn't know that the master needs to be that small and I may need to replace it if the brakes don't get better.
Does the proportioning valve on the rears have any affect on the front brakes? My thought was no because they are separate systems.
Does the proportioning valve on the rears have any affect on the front brakes? My thought was no because they are separate systems.
Moderator
Having just a proportioning valve in the rear line doesn't affect the front brakes.
RBob.
RBob.