Hi guys does any of you know how to test (if possible) any of this two parts its off an 83 quadrajet # 17083204 thanks
Supreme Member
MC solenoid you can bench test very easily with no special tools. I do 2 tests on them:
1. At room temperature (not hot, not cold) unplug it and check for resistance between the 2 poles of the MC solenoid. Spec is about 20 Ohms. If it's significantly higher or lower, it's shot, regardless of whether it apparently works or not.
2. The solenoid is just an electro-magnet that operates on a full 12V of battery voltage (cycled by the ECM when the engine is running). You can run some temporary jumper wires over to it from the battery to do a simple field test. Every time you complete the circuit (polarity does not matter) you should hear a click (pulling the rods down). Every time you break the circuit again you should hear another click (the rods jumping back up). You should be able to click it up and down as fast as your little fingers can make and break the connection- it moves those rods REAL fast.
TPS is a little different, and the easiest way is to hook up a scan tool and note the TPS voltage the ECM is reporting at different throttle positions. Should be about .5V at curb idle and about 4.5V at WOT (although they often don't get much over 4V in many cases, through no fault of the TPS itself).
You can also field-test it with a volt meter but it requires rigging up some (3) special jumper wires to go between the TPS and it's plug so you can tap into it and read voltage while it's actually hooked up and talking to the ECM.
1. At room temperature (not hot, not cold) unplug it and check for resistance between the 2 poles of the MC solenoid. Spec is about 20 Ohms. If it's significantly higher or lower, it's shot, regardless of whether it apparently works or not.
2. The solenoid is just an electro-magnet that operates on a full 12V of battery voltage (cycled by the ECM when the engine is running). You can run some temporary jumper wires over to it from the battery to do a simple field test. Every time you complete the circuit (polarity does not matter) you should hear a click (pulling the rods down). Every time you break the circuit again you should hear another click (the rods jumping back up). You should be able to click it up and down as fast as your little fingers can make and break the connection- it moves those rods REAL fast.
TPS is a little different, and the easiest way is to hook up a scan tool and note the TPS voltage the ECM is reporting at different throttle positions. Should be about .5V at curb idle and about 4.5V at WOT (although they often don't get much over 4V in many cases, through no fault of the TPS itself).
You can also field-test it with a volt meter but it requires rigging up some (3) special jumper wires to go between the TPS and it's plug so you can tap into it and read voltage while it's actually hooked up and talking to the ECM.
thanks for replaying Damon i will do those tests i was also wondering if its normal that every time i turn the key to the on position the MC does that clicking for like a minute or so then it stops thanks for the help
Member
The clicking is the M/C soleniod. That's normal, mine usually stops clicking after about 30 secs, but I've seen a lot of variation in time on this between cars.
Supreme Member
Yep, that's totally normal. Not all GM cars with the CC-QJet do it at key-on (most notably Olds and Buicks) but almost all Chevys do and definitely Camaros and Firebirds.
ok thats a relief i thought my MC was fried 
much better
thanks guys
much betterthanks guys