So finally I took the plunge.........for the LS1 swap.

Brought a parts car. 48K 2002 T/A A4. Let me know what you guys think......I will be updating more as I get going. Wish me luck!!

Perfect donor car man congrats! Enjoy the build

NICE! I gotta say. If I got ahold of a TA instead of a camaro as a donor car, and it had a nice complete dash, without popped airbags like the one you got, Ide be VERY tempted to do a full wiring/dash/drivetrain swap. Looks like you got a really decent donor car. Everything you need/can use and its in decent shape!

Keep us posted!

J.

You are lucky to be able to buy doner car for your swap I am looking Forward seeing photos and problem if there are any , IŽam swap LS1 and 4gen Dash
to my 84 trans am

good Luck to you

After a small incident of falling off a ladder....... i am back on the swap again.

Not much progress but here goes........
The LS1 is almost ready to comeout..just need to organize some manpower and a few tools.

The 82 is now right next to the LS1, and I finally was able to carefully take the nose and front valance off

I bet you guys have seen me here asking a lot of questions......here are a few updates...

got the LS1 pulled out.....it was a challange with the limited space I have

Just placed order for Edmiller LS1 brake kit.....good customer service and answered all my question even stupid ones.....

I will have them in a week.......just in time for my week off

I will post up some pictures

humm is there a Ed Miller site

If it's the "ebmiller" from this board, he always seemed like a good guy to me. I'd planned on buying a brake upgrade kit from him until this Baer setup dropped into my lap...

Here it is

http://www.flynbye.com/catalog/i47.html


I tried to get in touch with bigbrakeupgrades.com but no responce in 2 days...

So Ed miller got my pick and $$$


Ed miller was so cool in answering my questions and even stayed on the phone a waled me thr paypal.....5 stars

I should have the setup in a week or so

thanks it me be some help to me in further

Update....1/4/2009
I used my vacation time and got the engine out of the 82......well almost
The A-arms are so wide that they are digging into the floor ... I have to somehow figure how to remove it before I can pull the engine out from under the car...
This thing is so heavy and won't budge.... i by myself was able to pull the LS1 out...........but not this one

Just gotta say...way to work with the space you have! That's insane.

with everybody making updates......I thought I would too. nothing to rave about....got the body completley stripped. Only thing remaining is the t-top weatherstripping. I have to decide now if i have to paint or not. probabaly not because I just got laid-off from my current job. last day is end of this month.

I might just rent an industrial steam preasure washer and wash it all.

are u selling the dash pad from the 4th gen? it looked like it wasnt cracked.
mine is cracked, im looking for one.

Its sold.....

here is a list of stuff I got remaining

http://mofba.org/MoFBA-sentinel/modu...wtopic&t=12967

http://mofba.org/MoFBA-sentinel/modu...wtopic&t=13418

five7kid or mw66nova or one of the other guys doing a 4L60E swap with their LS1 could answer this

Help me identify these and let me know which one is required.
2002 T/A - 4L60E


Anyone know what the black solinoid is for ?

Someone told me that it is a reverse lockout or reverse light switch. If it is the reverse lockout how does it function ? how come the 82 car didnt come ith this function.

The 82 originally came with a 3 speed. So the shifter assembly is entirely different. I was able to get a shifter out of a 700R4 3rd gen camaro and it didnt have that solinoid nor did the 82.
I just want to make sure that if this is required for some kind of signaling to the 4L60E or PCM. If anybody have a service manual they can look into.
All help is appriciated

Melvin, i thought that firebird looked familiar that would be the revrse lockout solenoid, you dont need it. glad to see you have made some progress with the car since i last saw it!

actually i was suprised to find you on here. im actually doing a ls1 third gen swap myself.

i believe that solenoid that your working with there has to do with the safety feature that won't allow you to shift the car out of park unless your foot is on the brake. it's a mechanical mechanism in the 3rdgen cars and is not necessary. i used the stock 700r4 3rdgen shifter with appropriate shifter cable and cable bracketry for the trans.

Are you the same andrew, that sold me the car?? whats up man ? and hows ur swap going

I started making some more progress on the swap again. Got the K-member modified for the LS1 comprossor and oil pan clearence. I took some pictures with measurements.

And here are the results

That would be me! actually my swap is slowly comming along. been so busy with a few other cars im building, i dont have a whole lot of time to be working on the third gen. im basically at the same stage you are. just got my frame notched, have to paint my engine bay, then the motor can go in

Glad to see your making good progress with your car!

Anyone know what the sensor is right below the radiator cap on a LS1 radiator.Its kinda sqr looking. The rad was out of a 2002 TA.

Do I need it for the swap ?

"Low Coolant Switch". If you want to add another pretty light on your dash, that warns you of impending coolant loss, then go ahead and wire it up. If not...just leave it alone and unplugged.

I have mine sitting there with the pigtail in it with a bunch of wire. I planned to wire it, but I got lazy. Its pretty simple to hook up...just like the low oil switch basically.

J.

do u know if leaving it out will throw a code or MIL. Can it be turned off in the pcm ?

Its not tied to the PCM. it ran an idiot light on the dash. its basically just a switch just like the low oil level switch. when the level gets too low, it turns on the light on the dash, no ECM functions are associated with either of these sensors.

I still have not gota a chance to post pics of what I got done during memorial day weekend.

I am planning on starting mockup now...unfortunatley the transmisson X-memeber mount bushing is trashed as well as the torq arm bushing.

So which one do I need to buy ?

its a 82 TA and I am putting in a LS1/4L60E. I am using Spohn motor mounts and Spohn Trans-swap X-member. The rear diff is a 2002 10-bolt and I will be using the stock LS1 torq arm.

what is the issue with Spohn X-member making it difficult to route exhaust ?

Thanks guys

If you run long tube headers, the exhaust y-pipe will have to dip to go under the spohn piece, making it very close to the ground. Having a custom build humped X-member will give you much more room for your pipes.

i used a energy suspension trans mount on my swap.

I thought the double humped X-memeber can only be done for guys swapping in a 6 speed and not an automatic.

has anybody on here done a double hump X-memeber for a automatic ?

Also what year do I need to get the bushings for ?

82-83 is different from 84-92 and thats also different from 93-02. Thats what I gathered from the manuf website

I acomplished this over memorial day weekend
Before



After


.
I used a steam preasure washer. As u can see it not only took the undercoating off. It easily took the old seam sealer off too.

And today evening ..................















tada..... :headbang: :clap: :cheers: :clownin:



There are still a few issues with clearence with the oil pan and K-member

that's what i like to see! good job brother...that's lookin' like it's gonna be one nice swap. much more "complete" than my swap...i just wanna go fast though...

Where did you get that steam pressure washer from!? I have been painstakingly cleaning my engine bay / wheel wells the hard way. I wish my wheel wells were that solid though, Mine are plagued with rust. Can you buy replacements?

I am not sure if they yet repop the inner fenders. But junkyards are always full of good cars for parts.

I got the preasure washer from a equipment rental company like rsc, united. thses guys are all over the country - google it.

the preasure washer brands are shark, or hotsy or Mi-Te

ooooh nice. im stickin around for this one.

That's a nice '82 you have! I'm looking forward to seeing it completed.

mw66nova did a single hump crossmember with his auto. check out his thread about half way down the page. i plan on copying his crossmember when i get that far in my swap.

So I started putting the LS1 engine harness back on the engine. I learned the hard way that I should have done that before I put the engine in.

I got most of the plugs connected except these.

1. On driver side right by injector # 5, there is a 2 prong plug. I am not sure where this goes. The lable fell off,

2. On the driver side on the wire harness that extends to the alternator, there is a another 2 plug sensor. lable says temp on it. Is it the air temp sensor or coolent temp sensor ? and where does it plug into ?

3. The starter signal connector at the back of the starter bw the engine, I am pretty sure that I got it out without removing the starter, but now I cant even see it to plug it is. Any trick to getting the plug connected ?

Thanks guys.

getting the engine in has got me motivated to move on

1: I think that might be the EVAP solenoid plug. Its the only other thing up near the injectors. Is it red??

2: Temp would be the water temp sensor. Its in the front of the driver's side head. In front of and just below the first exhaust port.

3: Not sure which plug you mean here. The terminals at the back of the starter solenoid? You should be able to get to those fairly easy even with the starter in position. There is no "Plug" though. Just studs with nuts. Did you mean something else?

If you meant the plug for the sensor near the starter...thats the crank position sensor and I doubt you'll get it plugged in with the starter in place.

I probably misunderstood what you meant though.

J.

yeah. #1 would either be the evap purge solenoid between injector 1-3 iirc, or its went to some little solinoid thing that used to sit back by injector 7 for the AIR system, either way, you wont need it.

and for #5, i believe your talking about the crank sensor, which is behind the starter. you will most likely have to remove the starter to plug it in, at least i've always had to.

cool...that make sense. TG for u guys and TGO. I will get that plugged in and looks like I have to remove the starter.

I have tried to reread all the info I could find on wiring. I know that each one is unique in the way it should be done. But this is my plans and if u guys see any holes in it let me know.

LS1 engine harness - not many changes.

will connect to the (using the C100, C102 and 105 plugs)

LS1 harness that used to go into the 02 TA passenger side firewall

route the C220 and C230 plugs under the dash from the passenger side to driver side. This will need to be splised in to provide some of the gauge signals and ALDL switch.

I am going to use the LS1 engine bay fuse box mounted on the passenger side battery tray.

On the LS1 harness that hardwired into this fuse box , I would need to strip out stuff like lights horns etc. but will be keeping the fan connections etc.

connections from the LS1 alternator, battery and starter (maybe ??) will also connect to this fuse box using a seperate harness.

the 82 harness that comes out of the passenger side fender will also connect to this fuse box for power.

the ign switch and starter and alternator wires on this stock harness will have to be splised into the LS1 fuse box harness.

On the 82 bulk head harness on the driver side firewall by the booster.

The 82 chassis harness will remain same. - maybe a few changes.

The engine harness would go to new 82 style sending units and maybe need to be splised into the LS1 engine harness.

The LS1 fuel pump harness will need to be routed up front to the fuse box and reuse on of the unused relay/fuse in the LS1 fuse box.

So am I on the right track ? I am going to take pic of the above harnesses just to be sure I identified them right.

not sure anything coming from the passenger side wiring harness needs to be kept. I think everything on the passenger side is the original engine computer harness which is seperate from the body / gauges / and hvac.

I forgot to mention that I am staring with a carbed car. here is a picture of the harness in question. its got a lot of wires, some of which I think are needed.

Need help with the LS1 starter wiring. Here is a picture. thyere is one 7mm terminal and 2 13mm terminal. How do I connect the 2 13mm terminal ?

NOooooo hahaha. Whatever you do dont hook negative up to the starter. You'll have a mess when you connect the battery. The starter is grounded to the block which is grounded to the battery.

The terminal that you have marked POSITIVE is correct. Put your wire from the battery right to that terminal. Thats also the terminal that you get power to the inside of the car from.

The starter "trigger" wire, or signal wire which is usually purple goes to that little stud at about 11 o'clock in your picture. I guess the 7mm stud. Thats it.

As for your fender harness question...my 87 was a 305 TPI and my 86 was an LG4...and I was able to completely remove that harness on both cars. I have a harness for the LS1 going through that opening and nothing else. I dont think I even had to cut anything. The ECM wires go through there and I just pulled it all through. Even if its a carbed car it'll still have engine control stuff. Just gotta trace it and make sure you dont need it. Then ditch it.


J.

my 82 was carbed, and I completely removed that harness and computer. Your gauges comes through on the driver's side bulkhead, and the hvac doesnt go through the passenger fenderwell. You can remove that harness and never look back

Thanks guys.....that harness is a goner tonight. I am gona confirm that non of them have any wires I will need.

About the starter - so what connects to the stud that I have marked as negetive in my picture ??

Nothing "goes" there its what feeds power to the brushes from the solenoid so consider it done.

On a 3rd gen, does the ign sinal come from the C207 connector (passenger side fender) or C100 bulkhead connector (driver side engine bay)?

I am using a 4th gen fusebox. here is my logic (so far)

The fuse box has power directly from the battery.

The fuse box then powers the starter.

The starter solinoid signal comes from the LS1 engine harness.

The engine harness is conneted to the C102 connector (LS1 passenger fender) which has the LS1 ign wire in it.

So if I connect the LS1 ign wire in the C102 connector to the ign wire for the 3rd gen (C207 maybe ???), it should work right ?