how do i get a good start?
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,818
Likes: 0
From: Dixon, IL
Car: RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.42
pull up to the light (street) put the car in Drive not od, (I assume that you don't know how to manually shift it), put your left foot on the brake an bring the revs up around 2200 let the suspension tip, and let go of the brake and once you ar moving floor it. Practice makes perfect, btw play with the rpms that you launch with, it mostly depends on the car.
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late model 91 rs, fully loaded, auto, t-tops, red leather, paint- gm red and yellow blend (light red), custom painted 16" Camaro rims
305 tbi flat base 14"x3" with K&N, hypertech chip, accel super stock plug wires, only use full synthetic oil and delco filter, 2 1/2" cat delete pipe, Edelbrock 3" cat-back
MTX sub and amp, Bose all around
vic_v8@yahoo.com
street kills: New v-6 stang, 96 v6 camaro, totally killed '86 SC Camaro (305), 91 z 28 with 305
15.854@87.57 (I think I could have it 15.5 with good tires and two more runs)
next month: rest of ultimate tbi
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late model 91 rs, fully loaded, auto, t-tops, red leather, paint- gm red and yellow blend (light red), custom painted 16" Camaro rims
305 tbi flat base 14"x3" with K&N, hypertech chip, accel super stock plug wires, only use full synthetic oil and delco filter, 2 1/2" cat delete pipe, Edelbrock 3" cat-back
MTX sub and amp, Bose all around
vic_v8@yahoo.com
street kills: New v-6 stang, 96 v6 camaro, totally killed '86 SC Camaro (305), 91 z 28 with 305
15.854@87.57 (I think I could have it 15.5 with good tires and two more runs)
next month: rest of ultimate tbi
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,031
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: 87 Iroc Z
Engine: 383ci.
Transmission: WC-T5
holding both the brake and the gas bring the revs up till you feel your rear end lift and bring the revs up to the point just before your tires are about to turn for a burn out. When the time comes, don't let the car roll you lose reaction time(track) just let off the brake and mash the gas, she'll sqwauk a bit but hey unless you have soft compounds...
Oh and learn how to shift the auto (1st up till 5000-5500Rpm, then slap it into 2nd till 5000-55000Rpm, then slap into 3rd, and so on. Makes a huge difference.
Oh and learn how to shift the auto (1st up till 5000-5500Rpm, then slap it into 2nd till 5000-55000Rpm, then slap into 3rd, and so on. Makes a huge difference.
Moderator




Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 5,225
Likes: 70
From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 427 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 Bolt / 3.73 TrueTrac
"Oh and learn how to shift the auto (1st up till 5000-5500Rpm, then slap it into 2nd till 5000-55000Rpm, then slap into 3rd, and so on. Makes a huge difference."
You mean have it in one, then at 5000 put it in 2.....etc right?
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1988 Jet Black IROC
5.7L W/ 64000 miles
Flowmaster Exhaust
Fully Loaded
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My IROC In Readers Rides
My IROC
You mean have it in one, then at 5000 put it in 2.....etc right?
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1988 Jet Black IROC
5.7L W/ 64000 miles
Flowmaster Exhaust
Fully Loaded
------------------
My IROC In Readers Rides
My IROC
Wow, those are some good tires and/or brakes if you bring the rpms to 2200 rpm. The converter usually stalls around 1200 for me. If I go any higher they will break loose.
I would just heat your tire (burnout) then just mash the gas. The torque peaks at 2400 rpm, so bringing it so close to that isn't very beneficial.
TBI cars have plenty of low end power, but once it hits second, or even revs past 4500 rpm, it just falls flat on it's face. That is why you shouldn't bring it up to stall speed.
-Todd-
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1989 Formula WS6
Recently re-converted back to bone-stock for economy.
-L03, Auto, 2.73, etc.
Best Run(formerly modified): 14.1 @ 97 mph.
Recent Run(Stock): 16.1 @ 83 mph.
=========================
1988 Mustang GT
-T-tops, E-303 Cam/1.6 rollers, 3.73 gears, Auto, 4" cowl,
fiberglass hatch, Hooker headers into Flowmaster 40s, and much more.
Best run: 13.87 @ 98 mph.
=========================
1991 Mercury Topaz
-2.3 HSC I4, Auto, winter beater.
=========================
1986 Buick Regal
-Drag car project for my built Olds 403 V8.
I would just heat your tire (burnout) then just mash the gas. The torque peaks at 2400 rpm, so bringing it so close to that isn't very beneficial.
TBI cars have plenty of low end power, but once it hits second, or even revs past 4500 rpm, it just falls flat on it's face. That is why you shouldn't bring it up to stall speed.
-Todd-
------------------
1989 Formula WS6
Recently re-converted back to bone-stock for economy.
-L03, Auto, 2.73, etc.
Best Run(formerly modified): 14.1 @ 97 mph.
Recent Run(Stock): 16.1 @ 83 mph.
=========================
1988 Mustang GT
-T-tops, E-303 Cam/1.6 rollers, 3.73 gears, Auto, 4" cowl,
fiberglass hatch, Hooker headers into Flowmaster 40s, and much more.
Best run: 13.87 @ 98 mph.
=========================
1991 Mercury Topaz
-2.3 HSC I4, Auto, winter beater.
=========================
1986 Buick Regal
-Drag car project for my built Olds 403 V8.
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Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
Likes: 1
From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
The shifter is a good idea it will help, but I think the $150 could be spent else where to make your car faster.
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"Rice burners are like tampons...Every pu$$y has to have one"
'86 IROC
T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK TES HEADERS
3" Hooker CatBack w/Aero Chamber muffler
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
160* Stat, just switched to 180* b/c of winter coming and going to college in the mts.
3:73 Posi
Rebuilt 700R4
B&M Megashifter, 5" Autometer Tach w/shift lite
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"Rice burners are like tampons...Every pu$$y has to have one"
'86 IROC
T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK TES HEADERS
3" Hooker CatBack w/Aero Chamber muffler
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
160* Stat, just switched to 180* b/c of winter coming and going to college in the mts.
3:73 Posi
Rebuilt 700R4
B&M Megashifter, 5" Autometer Tach w/shift lite
something I did once, (when racing a friend) when we lined up at the light I put it in a 2nd and just nailed it right off the line and shifted into d... by the time I was in D the race was over. Another thing I tried was putting it in 1st and then doing a very little brake stand and nailed it ...shifted it into 2nd and then into D..but while doing this my car felt and sounded like it was going to stall lol last time I did that. But I find if you just put it in 2nd and just bring the rpms up to just about when they start to spin and then nail it you get a nice start. Just remember to shift into D 
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1988 Sport Coupe 305 TBI
K&N
Flowmaster 80
Daily driver:
1988 K1500 5.7 4x4 shortbed flowmaster cat-back gutted cat.
AIM: RyanNH84

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1988 Sport Coupe 305 TBI
K&N
Flowmaster 80
Daily driver:
1988 K1500 5.7 4x4 shortbed flowmaster cat-back gutted cat.
AIM: RyanNH84
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by NHcamaro:
I put it in a 2nd and just nailed it right off the line and shifted into d
</font>
I put it in a 2nd and just nailed it right off the line and shifted into d
</font>
. White91rs- if you spin off the line by just matting it try this: stall up to 2000 or so and when you see green (if at a stoplight obviously; if at the track go on the second yellow) let off the brake and feather the pedal till about 15-20 and then give it hell.
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