This post is mainly aimed toward steven (moderator), but i will take info from anyone. I was just looking at some timeslips from calgary last year, and wondering if you could tell me why im running such a slow et with such a high mph. my first pass was a 13.26@104.82 with a 1.96 60ft pass #2 was a 13.509@106.19 with a 60 ft time of 2.342 (carb was bogging bad off the line) and the third one was a 13.326@105.12with a 1.986 60ft.
I'm guessing it was because of my terrible 60 ft times, I did have cascar slicks on they helped alot. I rescently installed some sfc's and the car feels way stiffer, hopefully this helps. I'm just lookin for any tips/hints in general to go faster. I was also curious as to what you did with your old firewall design and pieces I would be interested in buying it off of you if u still have it.
I'm guessing it was because of my terrible 60 ft times, I did have cascar slicks on they helped alot. I rescently installed some sfc's and the car feels way stiffer, hopefully this helps. I'm just lookin for any tips/hints in general to go faster. I was also curious as to what you did with your old firewall design and pieces I would be interested in buying it off of you if u still have it.
ohh ya I forgot to mention that my 330 ft times were around 5.5 to 5.9. A local performance shop said I might be running lean with my stock fuel system just after the 60ft and this could be causing part of my probs.
As has been mentioned many times before, ET is a result of traction and MPH is a result of HP.
The trouble with both is that you can play with components and change bothe results. As an example, when I had a 383 with 3.27 gears I was only running 12.0 but at 117 mph. That mph should have put me in the low to mid 11's but I ran out of track before hitting the engines red line because the gearing was all wrong. If I had changed the gears to max me out at the finish line, chances are my mph wouldn't have been so high because the gearing would have been deeper.
Most of the time if you're close to a good setup, a gear change isn't going to make a big change on the mph. Doing a gear change will always affect ET since it changes the amount of torque you produce off the line. Providing you don't get a lot of wheel spin, increasing the torque will decrease the ET.
As for your runs,
13.260@104.82 1.96
13.509@106.19 2.342
13.326@105.12 1.986
With the carb bog in the second run I wouldn't even look at any of those numbers. It's hard to understand exactly what would have worked or not in that run since it wasn't a perfect run.
As for 1 and 3, 3 is a bit slower because of the slower 60' time. The HP increase is only slightly better and depending on when the runs were made during the day, it could be a simple weather adjustment. Go to my web pages and look through the tech tips files. There's one that explains a breakdown of a run. When you break a run down into sections, you can see where you made or lost power.
Cascar slicks are very hard rubber for oval racing. They're not a good as some real slicks. Chances are if you pick up some real slicks, your 60' times will decrease some more and will probably put your ET in line with the MPH.
Street legal Friday night Secret Street racing? At 100+ mph you should have a 100mph club decal. Lynn Church has already stated that Race City will be doing a lot more track prep this year on Friday nights. It will get more racers like me out there if I know there's traction plus they want the street cars to tear up the VHT instead of the rubber on the track. With just track prep, look to lower you ET a little more this year.
The rear firewall was scrapped when I took it out. Nothing could have been salvaged for reuse anyway. It was just a bunch of pieces of scrap aluminum trailer wall panels that I rivited and glued together.
As for your bog, it could be a rich or lean. Play with pump cams and squirter sizes. Jet changes won't make any changes in the first 60'.
The trouble with both is that you can play with components and change bothe results. As an example, when I had a 383 with 3.27 gears I was only running 12.0 but at 117 mph. That mph should have put me in the low to mid 11's but I ran out of track before hitting the engines red line because the gearing was all wrong. If I had changed the gears to max me out at the finish line, chances are my mph wouldn't have been so high because the gearing would have been deeper.
Most of the time if you're close to a good setup, a gear change isn't going to make a big change on the mph. Doing a gear change will always affect ET since it changes the amount of torque you produce off the line. Providing you don't get a lot of wheel spin, increasing the torque will decrease the ET.
As for your runs,
13.260@104.82 1.96
13.509@106.19 2.342
13.326@105.12 1.986
With the carb bog in the second run I wouldn't even look at any of those numbers. It's hard to understand exactly what would have worked or not in that run since it wasn't a perfect run.
As for 1 and 3, 3 is a bit slower because of the slower 60' time. The HP increase is only slightly better and depending on when the runs were made during the day, it could be a simple weather adjustment. Go to my web pages and look through the tech tips files. There's one that explains a breakdown of a run. When you break a run down into sections, you can see where you made or lost power.
Cascar slicks are very hard rubber for oval racing. They're not a good as some real slicks. Chances are if you pick up some real slicks, your 60' times will decrease some more and will probably put your ET in line with the MPH.
Street legal Friday night Secret Street racing? At 100+ mph you should have a 100mph club decal. Lynn Church has already stated that Race City will be doing a lot more track prep this year on Friday nights. It will get more racers like me out there if I know there's traction plus they want the street cars to tear up the VHT instead of the rubber on the track. With just track prep, look to lower you ET a little more this year.
The rear firewall was scrapped when I took it out. Nothing could have been salvaged for reuse anyway. It was just a bunch of pieces of scrap aluminum trailer wall panels that I rivited and glued together.
As for your bog, it could be a rich or lean. Play with pump cams and squirter sizes. Jet changes won't make any changes in the first 60'.
hmmm..... they never gave me a decal at all, I wasn't complaining though they let me run without my license on me and without a letter saying that i could drive my "parent's" (they register it) vehicle. As far as the slicks go I know they are garbage, but a bit better than my bfg's i had on there before. I am a 19 year old student that has allready wasted about every penny i have on this car, so at the time real slicks were out of the question. I was wondering if anyone on here has some good pics of rear firewall designs, and if anyone knows if a drycell baterry needs to be in a battery box. thanks steven and clan for all the usefull info.
When you pick up your timeslip next time and it's over 100 mph with a "street car", pull up to the tower, go up top and show them the timeslip. They're probably want a little bit of info, name, car type etc, then you get a nice decal to display on the car.
As far as NHRA/IHRA is concerned, all batteries must be isolated from the driver's compartment even the sealed ones. I use a red top Optima battery. I could mount it sideways or upside down and it won't leak but it still needs to be isolated. The easiest way is to just buy a proper box. Moroso makes the most popular one but I have an aluminum box made by Tayler. It's cheaper and still passes tech since it's a proper approved box.
As far as NHRA/IHRA is concerned, all batteries must be isolated from the driver's compartment even the sealed ones. I use a red top Optima battery. I could mount it sideways or upside down and it won't leak but it still needs to be isolated. The easiest way is to just buy a proper box. Moroso makes the most popular one but I have an aluminum box made by Tayler. It's cheaper and still passes tech since it's a proper approved box.
Here's the Secret Street page I created a few years ago. It has a picture of the decal.
http://www.calgarydragracing.ab.ca/m...rtid=10&page=1
http://www.calgarydragracing.ab.ca/m...rtid=10&page=1