cars previous best with vortec heads, sdpc vortec intake, and boltons with nitrous went 11.29@127 on a 255 drag radial with my TKO600
shooting for a 10.50 pass on drag radials, with the stickshift..and im hoping traps in the mid 130s
Just got my summit order today, waiting on two more to come in...
first two boxes today had some goodies!
HSR, Mcleod twin disc clutch, wireset, looms, most of my fittings for the fuel system and oil feed/return for the turbo..
tomorrow the turbo/intercooler/piping/vband clamps and other misc crap is supposed to arrive, working on pulling the harness from the car, and the top end of the motor apart for turbo cam/gaskets/intake swap..pics tomorrow of that!
thread will be updated daily hopefully, anyways..on to the pic i got uploaded before my phone died!

shooting for a 10.50 pass on drag radials, with the stickshift..and im hoping traps in the mid 130s
Just got my summit order today, waiting on two more to come in...
first two boxes today had some goodies!
HSR, Mcleod twin disc clutch, wireset, looms, most of my fittings for the fuel system and oil feed/return for the turbo..
tomorrow the turbo/intercooler/piping/vband clamps and other misc crap is supposed to arrive, working on pulling the harness from the car, and the top end of the motor apart for turbo cam/gaskets/intake swap..pics tomorrow of that!
thread will be updated daily hopefully, anyways..on to the pic i got uploaded before my phone died!

Bad ***! What turbo you going to run?
Member
i will be watching,,, i have a 90 gta 305 wiith hsr. i've got my header, blow off valve, 3 bar map, turbo, waste gate all sitting on top of my tool box waiting to be put on, i just put my 30lb injectors in last week, but i've had everything for 2 years, getting itchy to put it all on, you may give me that push.... good luck!
Quote:
BB Precision billet 76mmOriginally Posted by Orr89RocZ
Bad ***! What turbo you going to run? and an air to air turbonetics/spearco FMIC
honestly, you/your car had alot of force in me doing this and going this route lol..
ive watched your car from the begining when it was a stock longblock HSR car lol
i think my goals are realistic and attainable, id be happy with a 10.50 pass as long as there is some reliability behind it....my car has served me well, and been extremely reliable when it was a N20 car...
Quote:
ive watched your car from the begining when it was a stock longblock HSR car lol
Those were the days! Lots changed in a few years time.ive watched your car from the begining when it was a stock longblock HSR car lol
Your goals sound reasonable. Mid 500's whp for a fairly low weight car will do the mid 10's and 130mph+. Thats a reasonable number to hit on a 350 V8. Just comes down to how well you can launch with the stick. Thats where you need to make your ET. The mph will come.
Quote:
Your goals sound reasonable. Mid 500's whp for a fairly low weight car will do the mid 10's and 130mph+. Thats a reasonable number to hit on a 350 V8. Just comes down to how well you can launch with the stick. Thats where you need to make your ET. The mph will come.
ive got a 9" for the car now...so...it'll come down to the tires hooking LOL...im no longer worried about busting up the 9bolt.Originally Posted by Orr89RocZ
Those were the days! Lots changed in a few years time.Your goals sound reasonable. Mid 500's whp for a fairly low weight car will do the mid 10's and 130mph+. Thats a reasonable number to hit on a 350 V8. Just comes down to how well you can launch with the stick. Thats where you need to make your ET. The mph will come.
im on the phone with summit right now, and im about to drive my truck through there front door! UGH! i am not satisifed with them at all, heres hoping they make this **** right!
i have a 406 sitting in the garage that will end up in the car unless i go lsx like i had planned...but that motor would need new slugs to bring the CR down..the wife and i are searching for a 91-92z for her, so i may LSX my car if i dont like this turbo sbc, and the turbo sbc setup might end up in her car to avoid wasted $$...we'll see
quick update, summit came through and made me more then happy! they got a customer for life!
still just waiting on parts to arrive, ill toss a few pics up in a little bit.
still just waiting on parts to arrive, ill toss a few pics up in a little bit.




Looking good. glad summit came thru for you. They have always been good to me
Quote:
its slow moving because of parts shipping...but eh, some progress is better then no progress...im waiting on my monoblade TB to show up...right now im porting the HSR upper and lower, and removing the center bar on the plenum for the TB.Originally Posted by Orr89RocZ
Looking good. glad summit came thru for you. They have always been good to me Sorry for being slow on the updates, life has been BUSY lately, weathers been HOT, and been waiting on parts to come in...
i took these a few days back and forgot to upload em...isnt much, but its some progress!
once its all back together and running again it's going to the shop this weekend for the plumbing and headers..
i got mixed info on what size pipe to use for the header primarys... i ended up choosing 1 3/4
along with 3.5 crossover pipe, and 4 inch Downpipe..anybody see any issues with this?
i also decided to just redo the fuel system 100%, not going to be using ANY of the HSR fuel rail kit, aside from the actual rails.
converting over to -10 feed from the tank to lines with a Y fitting at the back near the firewall
return side will be -8 going into a Y then into the regulator and back to the tank.
only going to be using the HSR stuff to get the car running again and to the shop, also to make sure engine runs fine after the upgrades{heads/cam/intake swap}
LOTS to do, and hopefully its running with turbo within 2 weeks!



i took these a few days back and forgot to upload em...isnt much, but its some progress!
once its all back together and running again it's going to the shop this weekend for the plumbing and headers..
i got mixed info on what size pipe to use for the header primarys... i ended up choosing 1 3/4
along with 3.5 crossover pipe, and 4 inch Downpipe..anybody see any issues with this?
i also decided to just redo the fuel system 100%, not going to be using ANY of the HSR fuel rail kit, aside from the actual rails.
converting over to -10 feed from the tank to lines with a Y fitting at the back near the firewall
return side will be -8 going into a Y then into the regulator and back to the tank.
only going to be using the HSR stuff to get the car running again and to the shop, also to make sure engine runs fine after the upgrades{heads/cam/intake swap}
LOTS to do, and hopefully its running with turbo within 2 weeks!



3.5" crossover is HUGE. It probably will delay spool time. You only really need 2.5". Even 3" is abit large for your goals.
1 3/4 primaries will work. You could go smaller and be fine as well. Just choose a primary size that covers the exhaust port effectively.
4" downpipe is good.
1 3/4 primaries will work. You could go smaller and be fine as well. Just choose a primary size that covers the exhaust port effectively.
4" downpipe is good.
Quote:
1 3/4 primaries will work. You could go smaller and be fine as well. Just choose a primary size that covers the exhaust port effectively.
4" downpipe is good.
2.5 inch crossover? really?Originally Posted by Orr89RocZ
3.5" crossover is HUGE. It probably will delay spool time. You only really need 2.5". Even 3" is abit large for your goals. 1 3/4 primaries will work. You could go smaller and be fine as well. Just choose a primary size that covers the exhaust port effectively.
4" downpipe is good.
my goals have been raised a bit based on what ive seen in other builds..
im shooting for 600ish to the pavement now, thats why i kinda stepped up on some parts..
For a single turbo, I would run 2.5" from each manifold into a splitter that fills the turbo flange. If thats a T4 flange turbo, join the 2.5" sections into a 3" pipe at the turbo flange. Wrap it up alittle and it will keep the gas hot and velocity fast to spool the turbo.
Plus its so much easier to route in the engine bay and cheaper.
There are some huge powered big block drag cars I've seen at the track that only run 2.5" pipes to a T6 flange single turbo and those cars make over 1500hp.

That guy is making a 106 mm single turbo outlaw car that will run in the low low 7's hopefully.Upwards of 1800-2000hp. Uses 2.5" into single 3.5" that merges to the T6 flange which is a rather large flange. Thats a 60mm wastegate with 2.5" pipe feeding it.
THey will handle plenty of flow for big power.
I'd think if you went with 2.5" pipes to the T4 flange or whatever flange size you use, you can somehow split the pipes to join into one 3" connection to fit the flange perfectly. If you took 3" and squared the end, it will perfectly match the outside perimeter of the flange. A perfect transistion. It will be more than enough for 600whp
Plus its so much easier to route in the engine bay and cheaper.
There are some huge powered big block drag cars I've seen at the track that only run 2.5" pipes to a T6 flange single turbo and those cars make over 1500hp.

That guy is making a 106 mm single turbo outlaw car that will run in the low low 7's hopefully.Upwards of 1800-2000hp. Uses 2.5" into single 3.5" that merges to the T6 flange which is a rather large flange. Thats a 60mm wastegate with 2.5" pipe feeding it.
THey will handle plenty of flow for big power.
I'd think if you went with 2.5" pipes to the T4 flange or whatever flange size you use, you can somehow split the pipes to join into one 3" connection to fit the flange perfectly. If you took 3" and squared the end, it will perfectly match the outside perimeter of the flange. A perfect transistion. It will be more than enough for 600whp
Quote:
Plus its so much easier to route in the engine bay and cheaper.
There are some huge powered big block drag cars I've seen at the track that only run 2.5" pipes to a T6 flange single turbo and those cars make over 1500hp.

That guy is making a 106 mm single turbo outlaw car that will run in the low low 7's hopefully.Upwards of 1800-2000hp. Uses 2.5" into single 3.5" that merges to the T6 flange which is a rather large flange. Thats a 60mm wastegate with 2.5" pipe feeding it.
THey will handle plenty of flow for big power.
I'd think if you went with 2.5" pipes to the T4 flange or whatever flange size you use, you can somehow split the pipes to join into one 3" connection to fit the flange perfectly. If you took 3" and squared the end, it will perfectly match the outside perimeter of the flange. A perfect transistion. It will be more than enough for 600whp
ugh! damn you!Originally Posted by Orr89RocZ
For a single turbo, I would run 2.5" from each manifold into a splitter that fills the turbo flange. If thats a T4 flange turbo, join the 2.5" sections into a 3" pipe at the turbo flange. Wrap it up alittle and it will keep the gas hot and velocity fast to spool the turbo.Plus its so much easier to route in the engine bay and cheaper.
There are some huge powered big block drag cars I've seen at the track that only run 2.5" pipes to a T6 flange single turbo and those cars make over 1500hp.

That guy is making a 106 mm single turbo outlaw car that will run in the low low 7's hopefully.Upwards of 1800-2000hp. Uses 2.5" into single 3.5" that merges to the T6 flange which is a rather large flange. Thats a 60mm wastegate with 2.5" pipe feeding it.
THey will handle plenty of flow for big power.
I'd think if you went with 2.5" pipes to the T4 flange or whatever flange size you use, you can somehow split the pipes to join into one 3" connection to fit the flange perfectly. If you took 3" and squared the end, it will perfectly match the outside perimeter of the flange. A perfect transistion. It will be more than enough for 600whp
another order going back, and waiting for another to show up!
bah!
i did some reading, ill follow your advice! its ok to stick with the 4" downpipe though right?
im gonna shoot for 600 ish whp with this motor, and plan on putting the "good" motor in the car this fall/winter while im doing the paint/bodywork...
Yeah, bigger downpipes are always good. 4" exhaust is good for over 600whp and up to much higher numbers.
Agree 100% with Orr. If you ever want to get a good lesson in crossover pipe sizing, take a look at the Syclone truck's tiny crossover pipe and see how fast they are going on stock setups!
Steve
Steve
well,i sent back the 3.5 piping and bends i ordered, ordered up 2.5 inch replacements..
i had another question about oiling for the turbo...
some are saying i need an oil restrictor? and im getting conflicting info about the oil DRAIN sizing...-8/-10?
stuffs been so busy lately i havent had any time for the car, hoping to get some progress this weekend
i had another question about oiling for the turbo...
some are saying i need an oil restrictor? and im getting conflicting info about the oil DRAIN sizing...-8/-10?
stuffs been so busy lately i havent had any time for the car, hoping to get some progress this weekend
Biggest drain you can possibly run is best. Most do -10 AN size.
Dont really need a restrictor for most journal bearing turbos but ball bearing ones usually do if you have high oil pressure/volume. BB's dont need as much oil so restrictors are used. A single -4an feed will be fine.
Dont really need a restrictor for most journal bearing turbos but ball bearing ones usually do if you have high oil pressure/volume. BB's dont need as much oil so restrictors are used. A single -4an feed will be fine.
Quote:
Dont really need a restrictor for most journal bearing turbos but ball bearing ones usually do if you have high oil pressure/volume. BB's dont need as much oil so restrictors are used. A single -4an feed will be fine.
4an feed was what i had planned on using, i have SOOOO much of it considering this car was a dedicated N20 car previously...Originally Posted by Orr89RocZ
Biggest drain you can possibly run is best. Most do -10 AN size.Dont really need a restrictor for most journal bearing turbos but ball bearing ones usually do if you have high oil pressure/volume. BB's dont need as much oil so restrictors are used. A single -4an feed will be fine.
the other thing i need to figure out, is where to put the drain...i really really really do not want to pull this motor right now...my stupid block doesnt have the fuel pump provisions!
have a few orders showing up today, but no real time to do anything about it ahah.
made SOME progress this weekend, but not much..heres a few pics
getting the a/c box out the way..


got the trans yanked, and new clutch going in.
the old nitrous motor DESTROYED a spec stage3 clutch..new clutch for the turbo setup is a mcleod twin disc, trans is a liberty built faceplated tko600

this is the belt wrap routing i think i am going to run,anyone see any issues with this? i need i think an 85to87 water pump and serp pulley, these were grooved instead of smooth, and normal rotation like the new belt route will need..i will just run a spherical rod end adjuster like my march setup used on my mustang.

heres just an overall shot of the car anxiously waiting to be finished!


made SOME progress this weekend, but not much..heres a few pics
getting the a/c box out the way..


got the trans yanked, and new clutch going in.
the old nitrous motor DESTROYED a spec stage3 clutch..new clutch for the turbo setup is a mcleod twin disc, trans is a liberty built faceplated tko600

this is the belt wrap routing i think i am going to run,anyone see any issues with this? i need i think an 85to87 water pump and serp pulley, these were grooved instead of smooth, and normal rotation like the new belt route will need..i will just run a spherical rod end adjuster like my march setup used on my mustang.

heres just an overall shot of the car anxiously waiting to be finished!


Re: Turbo 350ci Vortec HSR 89 Formula..
There isnt any 6 rib serpentine water pump pulley that I know of. The earlier ones used a combination v/serp pulley but it will not line up right and the serpentine portion is only a 5 rib. I would just use that pulley, but I think either the center hole or the holes for the bolts do not line up on the earlier water pump. Fixable I'm sure, but thought I'd mention it.
Quote:
yeah, i found this out the hard way...Originally Posted by madmax
There isnt any 6 rib serpentine water pump pulley that I know of. The earlier ones used a combination v/serp pulley but it will not line up right and the serpentine portion is only a 5 rib. I would just use that pulley, but I think either the center hole or the holes for the bolts do not line up on the earlier water pump. Fixable I'm sure, but thought I'd mention it. bolts up, but spacing is different, as is the 5rib setup.
i ended up just buying an A/C delete pulley, and i will be cutting off the lower portion of the bracket for mounting the air pump, and where it bolts to the block..
i may just trim as much as possible to get as much room as needed, i dunno.
or, i may just take that entire bracket off, and run an electric water pump..we'll see, but for now i bought a delete pulley.
heres the latest and greatest issue im dealing with!
heres some pics to show what my issue is...
before ya'll say flip the rails around and run them like holley suggest's..it aint gonna happen..i like how i have them routed, and fuel lines are already made and routed!
having looked at the IAC housing on the LT1 throttle bodys, it looks like the IAC motor is much shorter, and the connector faces FORWARD instead of pointing to the pass side.. looking at pictures, it looks like the LT1 iac, will bolt directly to a TPI tb..anybody tried this?
heres the issue im running into.




and an overall shot cuz its SEXY! haha

and...the meat and potatoes of the build!
after some screwups with a few turbos, and gettting screwed on one by a member of modularmustangs..
i ended up buying one of my buddy's brand new garrets...
heres a few pics/specs.
Garret 91mm G-trim, .96 a/r compressor-1.32 turbine,t6 flange. and polished!

heres a before polishing size reference photo..


after some screwups with a few turbos, and gettting screwed on one by a member of modularmustangs..
i ended up buying one of my buddy's brand new garrets...
heres a few pics/specs.
Garret 91mm G-trim, .96 a/r compressor-1.32 turbine,t6 flange. and polished!

heres a before polishing size reference photo..


That is a huge turbo. Thought you were going with a 76mm?
Quote:
the bar's been raised Originally Posted by Orr89RocZ
That is a huge turbo. Thought you were going with a 76mm? 
i bought a precision 76mm new off a forum, and got screwed on it...
not wanting to take chances, i picked this up off my buddy
the 414 dart motor will go in the car probably this winter when i tear the car down for paint/bodywork and engine bay smoothing.
im being told 1000rwhp is possible...i dunno.. we'll see..
if i end up not liking this turbo, it only takes 15 minutes to change lol
Very nice build.
I noticed your W/P pulley and the following conversation. I have the mythical 6 rib water pump pulley sitting in my toolbox. It is a very nice March polished version. I switched to an electric W/P and am not using this pulley any longer. If you are interested...$50 shipped puts it in your possesion. Just say the word.
I noticed your W/P pulley and the following conversation. I have the mythical 6 rib water pump pulley sitting in my toolbox. It is a very nice March polished version. I switched to an electric W/P and am not using this pulley any longer. If you are interested...$50 shipped puts it in your possesion. Just say the word.
A 91mm on a 414 will make for a great powerful combination. On the 350 it will be laggy. hard to get the most out of it without some boost. That turbo is great for 1000-1200hp builds with 25-30psi on a 350-383 build in the 6000-6500 rpm range.. Definately look to make over 700hp on your setup as you will be on the lower end of the map for that turbo.
Quote:
I noticed your W/P pulley and the following conversation. I have the mythical 6 rib water pump pulley sitting in my toolbox. It is a very nice March polished version. I switched to an electric W/P and am not using this pulley any longer. If you are interested...$50 shipped puts it in your possesion. Just say the word.
damn you! haha...Originally Posted by Slush92RS
Very nice build.I noticed your W/P pulley and the following conversation. I have the mythical 6 rib water pump pulley sitting in my toolbox. It is a very nice March polished version. I switched to an electric W/P and am not using this pulley any longer. If you are interested...$50 shipped puts it in your possesion. Just say the word.
shoot me a picture of it, along with a few dimensions...are you SURE this will work how i need it too? if i buy this march pully, i gotta buy the rest haha...cant have mismatched junk! shoot me a PM playa, we'll work somethin out.
Ps, thanks for the compliments on my build thus far.
Quote:
this 350 is the guinea pig basically...going to use it for the learning curve and initial setup/tuning..thats always been the plan, but obviously, the longer this 350 lives, the happier i will be..its been one HELL of a nitrous motor so far, so i can see it taking some turbo abuse hopefully!Originally Posted by Orr89RocZ
A 91mm on a 414 will make for a great powerful combination. On the 350 it will be laggy. hard to get the most out of it without some rpms i hope the car to be making in the neighborhood of 1k rwhp next season..
and i will likely push this 350 to its absolute limits until it explodes.
*edit* since i saw you added to your post lol..
the 414 i plan to spin right around 7k ish rpm..i havent decided on heads yet for that motor, most likely going to be some large 225+AFR's or equivalent head..and i MIGHT end up putting an auto in the car, although i really do not want too..im not sure how much abuse this tko600 is going to handle..its been built/prepped by liberty with a few upgraded internals, and faceplated..so we'll see i guess.
If you go to 7K rpms, might as well get the 235 AFR's. Baddest 23deg sbc head out the box available
Supreme Member
Quote:
I have an LT1 TB on one of my stock TPI intakes. No problems in doing that. Just check that the IAC ports on the plenum are correct. The different year IAC thing that is TPI dependent.Originally Posted by 89fbirdformula
having looked at the IAC housing on the LT1 throttle bodys, it looks like the IAC motor is much shorter, and the connector faces FORWARD instead of pointing to the pass side.. looking at pictures, it looks like the LT1 iac, will bolt directly to a TPI tb..anybody tried this? Nice turbo. I know the HP88 wheels are good for about 1400-1500 HP with the BW large compressor housing. That 91mm should be good for a few hundred HP more I would guess. What size wheel is in the turbine? I think you will need the auto trans to spool it. With that much HP might as go with the TH400 with the gears you will end up with.
Member
wow last time i saw a turbo that size was on a ls7 build vette. this was a 106mm but made over 2500 rwhp and hit 6.884 at 212 mph on the quarter and was considered "street legal". that came from the quickrev shop in ohio.
Oh these pulleys!!! Yeah i have the W/P pulley with 6 ribs.
89fbird i sent you a PM
89fbird i sent you a PM
Quote:
89fbird i sent you a PM
pm sent back, ill take em!Originally Posted by Slush92RS
Oh these pulleys!!! Yeah i have the W/P pulley with 6 ribs. 89fbird i sent you a PM
Quote:
Nice turbo. I know the HP88 wheels are good for about 1400-1500 HP with the BW large compressor housing. That 91mm should be good for a few hundred HP more I would guess. What size wheel is in the turbine? I think you will need the auto trans to spool it. With that much HP might as go with the TH400 with the gears you will end up with.
funny you mention the th400...Originally Posted by junkcltr
I have an LT1 TB on one of my stock TPI intakes. No problems in doing that. Just check that the IAC ports on the plenum are correct. The different year IAC thing that is TPI dependent.Nice turbo. I know the HP88 wheels are good for about 1400-1500 HP with the BW large compressor housing. That 91mm should be good for a few hundred HP more I would guess. What size wheel is in the turbine? I think you will need the auto trans to spool it. With that much HP might as go with the TH400 with the gears you will end up with.
i bought one last night fully built, hippster rmvb and brake, few other goodies.
gotta order a nice pan for it, the an fittings that go in the case, some more an hose ends,some more an hose, and pickout a nice trans cooler with dedicated fan...
also debating picking up a couple small 10" fans to put on the IC itself as pushers to try and help what limited airflow there will be, being a firebird, opinions?
Th400 + 3.08 gear and a good 28" tire will be perfect for 1000whp as you probably will be approaching 160mph traps
Assuming you build the motor for a HP peak of atleast 6000rpm, close to 6300-6400 would be better.
Assuming you build the motor for a HP peak of atleast 6000rpm, close to 6300-6400 would be better.Quote:
Assuming you build the motor for a HP peak of atleast 6000rpm, close to 6300-6400 would be better.
yeah, i had planned the hp peak to be around 6500, max rpm around 7k ish on the 414.Originally Posted by Orr89RocZ
Th400 + 3.08 gear and a good 28" tire will be perfect for 1000whp as you probably will be approaching 160mph traps
Assuming you build the motor for a HP peak of atleast 6000rpm, close to 6300-6400 would be better. the 350, well..we'll see haha, it's a tad mismatched, but oh well..im just using it to build the system, and get some bugs worked out this season.
im having to order up a spohn crossmember/tqarm combo now, and i just learned i need a conversion slipyoke for this th400 i bought because of this..

i also ordered all my fittings/lines for the trans, along with the trans cooler with 10" fan, im debating though on if i want to buy a couple more 10" fans to put on the front of the IC core..
yeah being closed nosed bird, compard to my whaleshark mouth camaro, you may put a puller or pusher fan on it.
These cars are bottom feeders so more of the cooling air comes thru the botom then thru the rad. I think if you set it up right, and shrouded the air path right, you could have air come up thru the intercooler and channel it back thru the rad with the fans.
I need to do this to my car, because i think i have a turbulent issue with the intercooler air path and it does not feed to the rad as well. Plus the fans are too weak.
These cars are bottom feeders so more of the cooling air comes thru the botom then thru the rad. I think if you set it up right, and shrouded the air path right, you could have air come up thru the intercooler and channel it back thru the rad with the fans.
I need to do this to my car, because i think i have a turbulent issue with the intercooler air path and it does not feed to the rad as well. Plus the fans are too weak.
89Fbird, Who polished that compressor side of your tiny little turbo...
I need some polishing done in the future (procharger bracketry)
I need some polishing done in the future (procharger bracketry)Quote:
These cars are bottom feeders so more of the cooling air comes thru the botom then thru the rad. I think if you set it up right, and shrouded the air path right, you could have air come up thru the intercooler and channel it back thru the rad with the fans.
I need to do this to my car, because i think i have a turbulent issue with the intercooler air path and it does not feed to the rad as well. Plus the fans are too weak.
i think im going to lay the IC kinda flat, but at an angle, and put some fans on the backside as pullers, which will push into the radiator core...we'll see what kinda room im working with when i get the nose apart next week.Originally Posted by Orr89RocZ
yeah being closed nosed bird, compard to my whaleshark mouth camaro, you may put a puller or pusher fan on it.These cars are bottom feeders so more of the cooling air comes thru the botom then thru the rad. I think if you set it up right, and shrouded the air path right, you could have air come up thru the intercooler and channel it back thru the rad with the fans.
I need to do this to my car, because i think i have a turbulent issue with the intercooler air path and it does not feed to the rad as well. Plus the fans are too weak.
im also considering doing a 91-92 front/rear conversion..and putting ronals on it..and making it a 'hawk clone...meh, ill never spend the money they want for a real hawk
normally i hate clones, but
B4Ctom1
TGO Supporter
close
Quote:
why not?Originally Posted by 89fbirdformula
before ya'll say flip the rails around and run them like holley suggest's..it aint gonna happen.
B4Ctom1
TGO Supporter
close
Quote:
That looks like an LT1 flywheel. Running an LT1 cluch setup on my T56 swap I liked a Ram 900 series single disc with a regular stock Valeo cover on a steel Centerforce flywheel. Metal to Metal to Metal has pretty good static properties. Spec's are cool, but I wonder sometimes about their static frictional capability. Originally Posted by 89fbirdformula
the old nitrous motor DESTROYED a spec stage3 clutch..new clutch for the turbo setup is a mcleod twin disc, trans is a liberty built faceplated tko600
Also kudos on the tko600. I went with the T56 because there was no tko600 back then and because it was cheaper. People get so hung up on "why didn't you get a 6 speed" or "the extra gear" thing so much that they overlook stronger and more economical solutions like the TKO.
I mean what is not to like? TKO's give you overdrive and reliably drive a lot of pretty severe race cars without issue.
Sending the tranzilla superduper viper ZOMG T56 back to the guys who built it for another twice yearly $1300 rebuild gets old. Throwing a TKO in your car and finding a second used one for sale for $1000 from a mustang racing website or race swap meet is better.
Quote:
i dunno, i just dont like that routing at all, personal preference i guess...Originally Posted by B4Ctom1
why not?Quote:
Also kudos on the tko600. I went with the T56 because there was no tko600 back then and because it was cheaper. People get so hung up on "why didn't you get a 6 speed" or "the extra gear" thing so much that they overlook stronger and more economical solutions like the TKO.
I mean what is not to like? TKO's give you overdrive and reliably drive a lot of pretty severe race cars without issue.
Sending the tranzilla superduper viper ZOMG T56 back to the guys who built it for another twice yearly $1300 rebuild gets old. Throwing a TKO in your car and finding a second used one for sale for $1000 from a mustang racing website or race swap meet is better.
its a GMPP lightweight flywheel, can be used on tpi/lt1 for 10.4 or 11 inch clutch.Originally Posted by B4Ctom1
That looks like an LT1 flywheel. Running an LT1 cluch setup on my T56 swap I liked a Ram 900 series single disc with a regular stock Valeo cover on a steel Centerforce flywheel. Metal to Metal to Metal has pretty good static properties. Spec's are cool, but I wonder sometimes about their static frictional capability. Also kudos on the tko600. I went with the T56 because there was no tko600 back then and because it was cheaper. People get so hung up on "why didn't you get a 6 speed" or "the extra gear" thing so much that they overlook stronger and more economical solutions like the TKO.
I mean what is not to like? TKO's give you overdrive and reliably drive a lot of pretty severe race cars without issue.
Sending the tranzilla superduper viper ZOMG T56 back to the guys who built it for another twice yearly $1300 rebuild gets old. Throwing a TKO in your car and finding a second used one for sale for $1000 from a mustang racing website or race swap meet is better.
heres a few pics from today, MANUAL trans is in, ive chosen to only go auto if i dont like driving it with the stick+ turbo combo.

no pics of clutch or trans install, didnt wanna get my phone or camera filthy...sorry guys...i might crawl under tomorrow and snap an under car pic..



well not much progress, but some is better then none i suppose...im fighting with summit right now over a few orders..and ive had little time to work on the car..






Supreme Member
Let me know if you want to get rid of that TKO... I will be interested.
Supreme Member
Quote:
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1256883802439
Can't see the vid, says its removed or not visiable do to privacy settingsOriginally Posted by 89fbirdformula
little idle vid from its first fire uphttp://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1256883802439
-Jim
B4Ctom1
TGO Supporter
close
Quote:
-Jim
He needs to go into the video settings for this video and select "edit video" and then set privacy for just that video to "everyone" then click save.Originally Posted by conlinj
Can't see the vid, says its removed or not visiable do to privacy settings-Jim








