Carb Size? The motor is a 305(LG4), Basically going to have headers and an intake for now... As for the intake I am thinking of using a Performer Air-Gap(Idle to 5,500 RPM)... For headers, I'm under the impression that 1 5/8" headers are optimum for a 350, is that true with a 305? Any brand recommendations? But my main question is about the carb, would a 600cfm but good with intake manifold and headers and still have some room for improvement? |
Is there something wrong with the stock carb? I wouldn't pay good money to change to a 600CFM from what you've got on there. Real bad way to spend your cash. Yep, 1 5/8" work great on a 305. Hooker, hedmann, Edelbrock TES are common ones. Check the sticky on the exhaust forum for info, prices and personal opinions. I'd do a performer RPM spread bore intake and leave the stock carb if it were me. In fact, i'd do the headers, and a catback, before I even did the intake manifold... |
And without a cam upgrade, the intake change is moot. And, if you don't do exhaust, don't bother doing anything else. Read the thread on the FAQ forum about the differences between 305's and performance upgrades. The carb is the last thing to change on an LG4. |
Originally Posted by five7kid
(Post 3228273)
And without a cam upgrade, the intake change is moot. And, if you don't do exhaust, don't bother doing anything else. Read the thread on the FAQ forum about the differences between 305's and performance upgrades. The carb is the last thing to change on an LG4. I'm definitely do exhaust, the car already has a catback. I'm having troubles with the carb and I want to eliminate the ECM, call me stubborn if you will. |
Originally Posted by Sonix
(Post 3227929)
Is there something wrong with the stock carb? I wouldn't pay good money to change to a 600CFM from what you've got on there. Real bad way to spend your cash. Yep, 1 5/8" work great on a 305. Hooker, hedmann, Edelbrock TES are common ones. Check the sticky on the exhaust forum for info, prices and personal opinions. I'd do a performer RPM spread bore intake and leave the stock carb if it were me. In fact, i'd do the headers, and a catback, before I even did the intake manifold... What size carb should I go with? I was thinking about going with a performer air-gap, which is idle to 5500, instead of the rpm air-gap which is something like 1500 to 6000 |
Okay, let's look at it a different way. What are you going to use the car for? And another: Do you understand all you'll have to do if you eliminate the stock carb and ECM? |
Originally Posted by five7kid
(Post 3228599)
Okay, let's look at it a different way. What are you going to use the car for? And another: Do you understand all you'll have to do if you eliminate the stock carb and ECM? As for the ECM, If I am not mistaken, new carb and ignition system are in order, have I been mislead? |
When I lived in Florida they stopped doing inspections, you may be lucky. I now live in South Carolina and all my Birds including my Wifes 96 LT1 Formula is Free To Breath! Its also nice having room to play! |
Your original Q-Jet was not electronic but was designed for emmisions. A 600 would be fine for a 305. I'm using a Shawn Murphy induction Q-jet, He started the "Jet"-Designs and went out on his own. He builds them for performance and they start out at a stage 1 for about $365. Holley also makes a great street avenger and easy to tune. ---------- I'm sorry yours should be electronic and you will need a new Carb and Vacuum HEI. |
Originally Posted by Tranny
(Post 3228632)
Your original Q-Jet was not electronic but was designed for emmisions. A 600 would be fine for a 305. I'm using a Shawn Murphy induction Q-jet, He started the "Jet"-Designs and went out on his own. He builds them for performance and they start out at a stage 1 for about $365. Holley also makes a great street avenger and easy to tune. ---------- I'm sorry yours should be electronic and you will need a new Carb and Vacuum HEI. |
The best use of a Street Avenger is for wasting good performance dollars. You might as well keep the q-jet. The q-jet is a great street performance carb. But, if you want to concentrate on the race aspect, your best bet is a Holley double pumper, probably something in the 600 CFM range. Any other type of carb, you might as well keep the q-jet. In addition to what you mentioned, you'll need some means to properly configure the transmission TV cable - it's a "throttle valve" cable, not a "kick down" cable, so don't assume any old half-baked way of hooking it up is okay. If you don't get it right, you'll burn up the transmission. You also need a means to lock up the torque converter during cruise conditions. Again, don't do that, and you'll hurt your transmission. |
Originally Posted by five7kid
(Post 3228656)
The best use of a Street Avenger is for wasting good performance dollars. You might as well keep the q-jet. The q-jet is a great street performance carb. But, if you want to concentrate on the race aspect, your best bet is a Holley double pumper, probably something in the 600 CFM range. Any other type of carb, you might as well keep the q-jet. In addition to what you mentioned, you'll need some means to properly configure the transmission TV cable - it's a "throttle valve" cable, not a "kick down" cable, so don't assume any old half-baked way of hooking it up is okay. If you don't get it right, you'll burn up the transmission. You also need a means to lock up the torque converter during cruise conditions. Again, don't do that, and you'll hurt your transmission. |
"Well, there is a write-up on how to wire up a switch for the lock-up," If you're referring to the 'tech' article, please don't wire your converter to a manual switch. Do the job right, get the proper vacuum switch or the wiring kit. If you ever 'fix' something by installing a manual switch in your cab, you haven't 'fixed' it. Think about how much money you could save if you didn't have to buy a new carb, dizzy and lockup kit...I get all fuzzy inside thinking about it myself. If it were me I'd be able to save enough to pay for my new hedders/exhaust and have enough money left over to buy the wife a blender. No TV cable problems, no lost performance, happy wife.... |
Originally Posted by naf
(Post 3228753)
"Well, there is a write-up on how to wire up a switch for the lock-up," If you're referring to the 'tech' article, please don't wire your converter to a manual switch. Do the job right, get the proper vacuum switch or the wiring kit. If you ever 'fix' something by installing a manual switch in your cab, you haven't 'fixed' it. Think about how much money you could save if you didn't have to buy a new carb, dizzy and lockup kit...I get all fuzzy inside thinking about it myself. If it were me I'd be able to save enough to pay for my new hedders/exhaust and have enough money left over to buy the wife a blender. No TV cable problems, no lost performance, happy wife.... It makes it harder that I don't have someone with enough know-how here localy that is able to come assist me. It just the dam carb that I am not to fond with, yes, it is because of the fact I haven't used one of its types before and therefore no next to nothing about it. So, should I just freshen up the 305 with new gaskets, plop her back in and go from there? I was trying to stray away from this idea because of the parts availablility for the 305's and the money that is needed to do what a 350 could do with less money. |
For info on rebuilding your existing carb look at these: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...e-rebuild.html https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...qjet-need.html If you decide to tackle it we can help out. What have you got to lose? |
Originally Posted by naf
(Post 3228822)
For info on rebuilding your existing carb look at these: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...e-rebuild.html https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...qjet-need.html If you decide to tackle it we can help out. What have you got to lose? Right now, I am sort of at the point where I just want the car running like it should be. Yea, it runs now, but I think somewhere along the lines of replacing the intake manifold, my buddy screwed up, I knew I should've done it myself, dam me wanting to get it together, thinking everything would be fine and taking ehr to the track. It never happens the way you want it to. The idle is still to high and the engine bay is a mess, she accelerates horribly and back fires from time to time. Another thing that adds to my frustration is the fact that the timing tab is gone, or atleast covered in grime so much that I am unable to find it. I think when I pull the motor, I am going to clean up the bay and remove the big a/c box on the passenger side firewall. Spray the bay with a fresh coat of paint and same to the motor, and plop her back in. Do you guys recommend any certain carb rebuild kit? Would a Holley off-the-shelf kit be fine? Haha, sorry for the extra-long post, just a little frustrated. |
Originally Posted by Black85Z28
(Post 3228809)
Ugh, well there goes the plan of swapping in a 350... See if the sig gives you any clue as to why I keep saying spending money on a carb is a waste of money. (A ZZ3 was a 350 GM crate motor, now called ZZ4.) The timing tab should be right behind the water pump. You usually have to move some vacuum stuff out of the way to see it. Proper timing is Step #1 in getting an engine to run properly. Assuming it was put back together properly, that is (if it started running poorly after the intake manifold install, that should tell you something). If the timing wasn't set properly after the manifold install, get that done before you start spending hard earned money. I just got a carb kit from Checker Auto (called Schucks east of the Mississippi, I believe). A good dip/soak type carb cleaner and a way to blow out passages after are as important to the rebuild process as the kit you get. |
Originally Posted by five7kid
(Post 3228946)
What do you think I started with? What do you think I'm running now? See if the sig gives you any clue as to why I keep saying spending money on a carb is a waste of money. (A ZZ3 was a 350 GM crate motor, now called ZZ4.) The timing tab should be right behind the water pump. You usually have to move some vacuum stuff out of the way to see it. Proper timing is Step #1 in getting an engine to run properly. Assuming it was put back together properly, that is (if it started running poorly after the intake manifold install, that should tell you something). If the timing wasn't set properly after the manifold install, get that done before you start spending hard earned money. I just got a carb kit from Checker Auto (called Schucks east of the Mississippi, I believe). A good dip/soak type carb cleaner and a way to blow out passages after are as important to the rebuild process as the kit you get. It was running poorly before and after the intake manifold gasket install. Thanks for putting up with me, Joe |
Please don't remove your AC stuff by the firewall...Just get your hands dirty and rebuild that carb. |
Originally Posted by naf
(Post 3229044)
Please don't remove your AC stuff by the firewall...Just get your hands dirty and rebuild that carb. It is all in the way, and I have no compressor or lines... With the way I am, I could really care less if I have A/C or not...:D |
It's not in the way, I have functioning AC on mine and have plenty of room. You may not always be the way you are today. It takes work to remove it. Too many young kids hack this stuff off thinking it's not COOL. |
Originally Posted by naf
(Post 3229832)
It's not in the way, I have functioning AC on mine and have plenty of room. You may not always be the way you are today. It takes work to remove it. Too many young kids hack this stuff off thinking it's not COOL. I wouldn't say young kids, I've seen alot of people opt to take it out. I'm not going to dive into the carb until I get a rebuild kit, seeing as the retaurant I worked it closed and I won't have a job until the new location opens, the project might not be going anywhere, until I get a job. Atleast the good thing about the place closing is they got to weed out the retards and I will most likely be getting a management postition. I was offered a position at a grocery store around the corner, so maybe I'll do that in the mean time. |
Seems to be the same, am I right? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/74-75...QQcmdZViewItem |
No that's an older mechanical q-jet and he wants too much for it. |
i wouldnt buy that one because it is not electic choke, you dont have the right intake manifold for that divorced style choke but i think that a great price for that carb, for the right person, not a bad carb but it wont work for you without choke/intake modifications you need to find an M4ME carb, http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...afe=off&q=M4ME and find a non EST/ESC distributor, in which are dirt common and cheap still and the remove the big fat harness on the passenger side fender cowl kick panel area and the computer in there too just unplug the engine sensors that it plugs into and pull it through, if you have automatic transmission then you will have to get an aftermarket TCC lockup wiring kit but if you just wish it to run right and be great on gas and save yourself lots of trouble and time then i would sendyour current EMmE carb off to be rebuilt and put it back on and be done with it all til some other day when you have a nice engine ready to drop in it this is the route i wouldhave gone with my 82 but i got it with computer stuff hacked up and the engine stripped(not original) and so the LG4 305 i just bought out of an 83 carpice i stripped down and put on non electronic carb and HEI and it runs like brand new like it did in the 83 caprice with the eelctronic carb and HEI on it, hey wait i have a good electronic E4ME carb sitting here i could sell you for cheap, lol, it ran great with the original computer like you have, i was just gonna toss it in the scrap pile you gimme like 35 bucks and you could have yourself a good running electronic carb so your car can run good again, or trade me something for my 82 as far as a/c goes, my a/c stuff was missing from the engine and such and i plan on doing the a/c delete heater box swap on it at some point, because theres no point in having a big clunky a/c box under there that is not functional and never will be again windows down= a/c |
Sean Murphy induction |
Originally Posted by Randy82WS7
(Post 3244779)
you gimme like 35 bucks and you could have yourself a good running electronic carb so your car can run good again, or trade me something for my 82 |
Originally Posted by Randy82WS7
(Post 3244779)
i wouldnt buy that one because it is not electic choke, you dont have the right intake manifold for that divorced style choke but i think that a great price for that carb, for the right person, not a bad carb but it wont work for you without choke/intake modifications you need to find an M4ME carb, http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...afe=off&q=M4ME and find a non EST/ESC distributor, in which are dirt common and cheap still and the remove the big fat harness on the passenger side fender cowl kick panel area and the computer in there too just unplug the engine sensors that it plugs into and pull it through, if you have automatic transmission then you will have to get an aftermarket TCC lockup wiring kit but if you just wish it to run right and be great on gas and save yourself lots of trouble and time then i would sendyour current EMmE carb off to be rebuilt and put it back on and be done with it all til some other day when you have a nice engine ready to drop in it this is the route i wouldhave gone with my 82 but i got it with computer stuff hacked up and the engine stripped(not original) and so the LG4 305 i just bought out of an 83 carpice i stripped down and put on non electronic carb and HEI and it runs like brand new like it did in the 83 caprice with the eelctronic carb and HEI on it, hey wait i have a good electronic E4ME carb sitting here i could sell you for cheap, lol, it ran great with the original computer like you have, i was just gonna toss it in the scrap pile you gimme like 35 bucks and you could have yourself a good running electronic carb so your car can run good again, or trade me something for my 82 as far as a/c goes, my a/c stuff was missing from the engine and such and i plan on doing the a/c delete heater box swap on it at some point, because theres no point in having a big clunky a/c box under there that is not functional and never will be again windows down= a/c I really don't want to be hitting switches everytime I am driving. |
Originally Posted by Black85Z28
(Post 3247897)
wouldn't doing the TCC mod kill the longevity of the tranny? |
my 84 with the stock 305 worked fine after the swap. I went with a 2102 Edelbrock cam package.performer intake,heddman shorties and a 500 edelbrock electric choke. I had a 600 on it and just could not get it right. stumbled bad on take offs worse when hot in traffic. The 500 gets just a tad less milage best i can tell??? but runs great from idle to wot. The exhaust is the edelbrock rpm cat back with no cats. Sounds great and driven daily like a bat out of hell by my 16 year old. I did not do anything to the TCC it does not lock and never had a problem. Put a good cooler on the trans and after a had drive my trans fluid temp stays around 135-140. If it ever goes I will worry about it in the rebuild. |
Originally Posted by Apeiron
(Post 3247972)
No, but not locking the TCC somehow would. |
Yes, you can put a pressure switch in the valvebody to lock the TCC in 4th, and a vacuum switch to unlock it at WOT. You can do this with GM parts, or with an aftermarket kit. |
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