Black85Z28

The motor is a 305(LG4), Basically going to have headers and an intake for now...

As for the intake I am thinking of using a Performer Air-Gap(Idle to 5,500 RPM)...

For headers, I'm under the impression that 1 5/8" headers are optimum for a 350, is that true with a 305? Any brand recommendations?

But my main question is about the carb, would a 600cfm but good with intake manifold and headers and still have some room for improvement?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Is there something wrong with the stock carb? I wouldn't pay good money to change to a 600CFM from what you've got on there. Real bad way to spend your cash.

Yep, 1 5/8" work great on a 305. Hooker, hedmann, Edelbrock TES are common ones. Check the sticky on the exhaust forum for info, prices and personal opinions.

I'd do a performer RPM spread bore intake and leave the stock carb if it were me.
In fact, i'd do the headers, and a catback, before I even did the intake manifold...

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

And without a cam upgrade, the intake change is moot.

And, if you don't do exhaust, don't bother doing anything else.

Read the thread on the FAQ forum about the differences between 305's and performance upgrades. The carb is the last thing to change on an LG4.

Black85Z28

Yea, a cam is coming.
I'm definitely do exhaust, the car already has a catback.
I'm having troubles with the carb and I want to eliminate the ECM, call me stubborn if you will.

Black85Z28

Yea, the carb is in bad need of a rebuild and I want to get rid of the ECM, like i said above.

What size carb should I go with?

I was thinking about going with a performer air-gap, which is idle to 5500, instead of the rpm air-gap which is something like 1500 to 6000

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Okay, let's look at it a different way.

What are you going to use the car for?

And another:
Do you understand all you'll have to do if you eliminate the stock carb and ECM?

Black85Z28

You could consider the car a Streetrod, driven throughout the week, taken to the track alot, a big cam doesnt bother me, nor is gas mileage to much of an issue.

As for the ECM, If I am not mistaken, new carb and ignition system are in order, have I been mislead?

Tranny

When I lived in Florida they stopped doing inspections, you may be lucky. I now live in South Carolina and all my Birds including my Wifes 96 LT1 Formula is Free To Breath! Its also nice having room to play!

Tranny

Your original Q-Jet was not electronic but was designed for emmisions. A 600 would be fine for a 305. I'm using a Shawn Murphy induction Q-jet, He started the "Jet"-Designs and went out on his own. He builds them for performance and they start out at a stage 1 for about $365. Holley also makes a great street avenger and easy to tune.
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I'm sorry yours should be electronic and you will need a new Carb and Vacuum HEI.

Black85Z28

Yea, mine is electronic, I already have an MSD Digital 6Plus ready with a coil, just need a distributor and a Carb, which I was looking to exchange anyway.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The best use of a Street Avenger is for wasting good performance dollars. You might as well keep the q-jet.

The q-jet is a great street performance carb. But, if you want to concentrate on the race aspect, your best bet is a Holley double pumper, probably something in the 600 CFM range. Any other type of carb, you might as well keep the q-jet.

In addition to what you mentioned, you'll need some means to properly configure the transmission TV cable - it's a "throttle valve" cable, not a "kick down" cable, so don't assume any old half-baked way of hooking it up is okay. If you don't get it right, you'll burn up the transmission.

You also need a means to lock up the torque converter during cruise conditions. Again, don't do that, and you'll hurt your transmission.

Black85Z28

Well, there is a write-up on how to wire up a switch for the lock-up, anyway known way, I should go about doing something for the TV cable?

naf

iTrader: (7)

"Well, there is a write-up on how to wire up a switch for the lock-up," If you're referring to the 'tech' article, please don't wire your converter to a manual switch. Do the job right, get the proper vacuum switch or the wiring kit.

If you ever 'fix' something by installing a manual switch in your cab, you haven't 'fixed' it.

Think about how much money you could save if you didn't have to buy a new carb, dizzy and lockup kit...I get all fuzzy inside thinking about it myself. If it were me I'd be able to save enough to pay for my new hedders/exhaust and have enough money left over to buy the wife a blender. No TV cable problems, no lost performance, happy wife....

Black85Z28

Ugh, well there goes the plan of swapping in a 350...

It makes it harder that I don't have someone with enough know-how here localy that is able to come assist me.

It just the dam carb that I am not to fond with, yes, it is because of the fact I haven't used one of its types before and therefore no next to nothing about it.

So, should I just freshen up the 305 with new gaskets, plop her back in and go from there? I was trying to stray away from this idea because of the parts availablility for the 305's and the money that is needed to do what a 350 could do with less money.

naf

iTrader: (7)

For info on rebuilding your existing carb look at these:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...e-rebuild.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...qjet-need.html

If you decide to tackle it we can help out. What have you got to lose?

Black85Z28

Ugh, I am undecided at the moment
Right now, I am sort of at the point where I just want the car running like it should be.
Yea, it runs now, but I think somewhere along the lines of replacing the intake manifold, my buddy screwed up, I knew I should've done it myself, dam me wanting to get it together, thinking everything would be fine and taking ehr to the track. It never happens the way you want it to.

The idle is still to high and the engine bay is a mess, she accelerates horribly and back fires from time to time. Another thing that adds to my frustration is the fact that the timing tab is gone, or atleast covered in grime so much that I am unable to find it.

I think when I pull the motor, I am going to clean up the bay and remove the big a/c box on the passenger side firewall. Spray the bay with a fresh coat of paint and same to the motor, and plop her back in.

Do you guys recommend any certain carb rebuild kit? Would a Holley off-the-shelf kit be fine?

Haha, sorry for the extra-long post, just a little frustrated.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

What do you think I started with? What do you think I'm running now?

See if the sig gives you any clue as to why I keep saying spending money on a carb is a waste of money. (A ZZ3 was a 350 GM crate motor, now called ZZ4.)

The timing tab should be right behind the water pump. You usually have to move some vacuum stuff out of the way to see it. Proper timing is Step #1 in getting an engine to run properly. Assuming it was put back together properly, that is (if it started running poorly after the intake manifold install, that should tell you something). If the timing wasn't set properly after the manifold install, get that done before you start spending hard earned money.

I just got a carb kit from Checker Auto (called Schucks east of the Mississippi, I believe). A good dip/soak type carb cleaner and a way to blow out passages after are as important to the rebuild process as the kit you get.

Black85Z28

Alright, I'll take a more in depth look for the timing tab tomorrow when I have some daylight.

It was running poorly before and after the intake manifold gasket install.

Thanks for putting up with me, Joe

naf

iTrader: (7)

Please don't remove your AC stuff by the firewall...Just get your hands dirty and rebuild that carb.

Black85Z28

Why not?
It is all in the way, and I have no compressor or lines...
With the way I am, I could really care less if I have A/C or not...

naf

iTrader: (7)

It's not in the way, I have functioning AC on mine and have plenty of room.

You may not always be the way you are today. It takes work to remove it. Too many young kids hack this stuff off thinking it's not COOL.

Black85Z28

Well, it's in the way of providing more room
I wouldn't say young kids, I've seen alot of people opt to take it out.
I'm not going to dive into the carb until I get a rebuild kit, seeing as the retaurant I worked it closed and I won't have a job until the new location opens, the project might not be going anywhere, until I get a job. Atleast the good thing about the place closing is they got to weed out the retards and I will most likely be getting a management postition. I was offered a position at a grocery store around the corner, so maybe I'll do that in the mean time.

Black85Z28

Seems to be the same, am I right?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/74-75...QQcmdZViewItem

naf

iTrader: (7)

No that's an older mechanical q-jet and he wants too much for it.

Randy82WS7

i wouldnt buy that one because it is not electic choke, you dont have the right intake manifold for that divorced style choke


but i think that a great price for that carb, for the right person,

not a bad carb but it wont work for you without
choke/intake modifications

you need to find an M4ME carb,

http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...afe=off&q=M4ME

and find a non EST/ESC distributor, in which are dirt common and cheap still

and the remove the big fat harness on the passenger side fender cowl kick panel area and the computer in there too

just unplug the engine sensors that it plugs into and pull it through,

if you have automatic transmission then you will have to get an aftermarket TCC lockup wiring kit

but if you just wish it to run right and be great on gas and save yourself lots of trouble and time then i would sendyour current EMmE carb off to be rebuilt and put it back on and be done with it all til some other day when you have a nice engine ready to drop in it

this is the route i wouldhave gone with my 82 but i got it with computer stuff hacked up and the engine stripped(not original) and so the LG4 305 i just bought out of an 83 carpice i stripped down and put on non electronic carb and HEI and it runs like brand new like it did in the 83 caprice with the eelctronic carb and HEI on it,

hey wait i have a good electronic E4ME carb sitting here i could sell you for cheap, lol, it ran great with the original computer like you have, i was just gonna toss it in the scrap pile

you gimme like 35 bucks and you could have yourself a good running electronic carb so your car can run good again, or trade me something for my 82









as far as a/c goes, my a/c stuff was missing from the engine and such and i plan on doing the a/c delete heater box swap on it at some point, because theres no point in having a big clunky a/c box under there that is not functional and never will be again

windows down= a/c

Tranny

http://www.smicarburetor.com/

Black85Z28

I just might take you up on that offer, whats it going to cost to ship it? I'm in 33763.

Black85Z28

Also, IF I did go that route and threw on a non-electric carb and HEI, wouldn't doing the TCC mod kill the longevity of the tranny?
I really don't want to be hitting switches everytime I am driving.

Apeiron

No, but not locking the TCC somehow would.

84freebird

my 84 with the stock 305 worked fine after the swap. I went with a 2102 Edelbrock cam package.performer intake,heddman shorties and a 500 edelbrock electric choke. I had a 600 on it and just could not get it right. stumbled bad on take offs worse when hot in traffic. The 500 gets just a tad less milage best i can tell??? but runs great from idle to wot. The exhaust is the edelbrock rpm cat back with no cats. Sounds great and driven daily like a bat out of hell by my 16 year old.

I did not do anything to the TCC it does not lock and never had a problem. Put a good cooler on the trans and after a had drive my trans fluid temp stays around 135-140. If it ever goes I will worry about it in the rebuild.

Black85Z28

Is there a way that I could have it where I dont have to keep flipping a switch?

Apeiron

Yes, you can put a pressure switch in the valvebody to lock the TCC in 4th, and a vacuum switch to unlock it at WOT. You can do this with GM parts, or with an aftermarket kit.