Poll: What happened here? http://home.socal.rr.com/jfearn/pics...driveshaft.JPG Happened at 60 MPH while getting ont he freeway..... |
simple u-joint failure. probably made a good amount of noise at 60 huh? probably gonna need to get that rebalanced after new u-joint installed. |
Is this why the techies at Irwindale keep nagging about something they call a "driveshaft loop?" |
Originally Posted by JulieGTA Is this why the techies at Irwindale keep nagging about something they call a "driveshaft loop?" |
One of the 38% who still likes Bush, huh? :doh: How long have you had those u-joints before the failure? Looks like you were throwing some gear oil at one point as well, I think I may see a little on your pipe. |
Oh I see. Is this a trick question? Like, whose car is that anyway? |
you're profile is like gnikaerf me out |
I find it hard to believe that happened on the freeway at 60mph and it is in that good of shape- Really do not believe it would have stayed in the tailshaft. I've lost driveshafts a few times in life and they never come out looking that clean at speed- hence why I opted for a carbonfiber shaft because the last one scared the crap out of me. |
That happened to my '83 Z28 for no apparent reason... just left home, neighborhood street, 25 mph, stopping at a stop sign, and... CLANGCLANGCLANGCLANG! I'm like... "WTH?!" The u-joint cap screws fell out, and the cap fell off. Luckily, being at a stop, it was all right there underneath the car. I put it back fingertight, and it got me back home. The car was completely stock and had never been messed with either. So **it does happen. Both my '82 and '83 Z28s had so many bugs to workout, that GM should've paid me for being a test driver! |
Originally Posted by DRR I find it hard to believe that happened on the freeway at 60mph and it is in that good of shape- Really do not believe it would have stayed in the tailshaft. I've lost driveshafts a few times in life and they never come out looking that clean at speed- hence why I opted for a carbonfiber shaft because the last one scared the crap out of me. Well I it was probably closer to 65 MPH as I just got on the freeway. I'm not some bonehead so as soon as I heard something wrong I put in the clutch and coasted to the shoulder. No power went through the driveshaft after the noise and it was probably dragged a couple hundred feet at most. While I waiting for the tow trick another member of this board met me on the freeway. So there is another witness of where it happened and can verify it in relation to the freeway onramp. If you ever tried to remove a thirdgen driveshaft you would know how the exhaust somewhat prevents the driveshaft from falling out without some effort. That is with 3" exhaust. This car has 3.5" exhaust. Nice try Dean. |
James, obviously the bolts broke, so I voted for the "Massive horsepower" option on the poll. Just curious how much you have. |
I was in the middle of spanking a G35 “Competition Model” on the 605 when I got the call. Jimmy is telling the absolute truth. The first thing I did when I met up with him was look under the car and what you see in the image is exactly what I saw. We’re just trying to figure out what happened and why… |
Originally Posted by james_85Z28 Well I it was probably closer to 65 MPH as I just got on the freeway. I'm not some bonehead so as soon as I heard something wrong I put in the clutch and coasted to the shoulder. No power went through the driveshaft after the noise and it was probably dragged a couple hundred feet at most. While I waiting for the tow trick another member of this board met me on the freeway. So there is another witness of where it happened and can verify it in relation to the freeway onramp. If you ever tried to remove a thirdgen driveshaft you would know how the exhaust somewhat prevents the driveshaft from falling out without some effort. That is with 3" exhaust. This car has 3.5" exhaust. Nice try Dean. M driveshaft is 4" round and will fall right out past the exhaust:huh: Exhaust is tucked nicely too and my car is lower than most. My I-pipe is a Stainlessworks baffled muffler 3.5" round and 28.5" long. I just know that if I lost a u-joint at 60 my driveshaft would come right out of the tailshaft and be lying on the freeway- its all I am stating. All I see is a couple of swirl polished scrape marks on the side of the aluminum shaft where it rubbed against the exhaust- but it looks like it was a slow critical speed like in first gear. Just my first impression of disecting the picture above. My hats off to you then for the strong driveshaft and exhaust pipe- you are lucky not to have more damage. Nice try back at you James. |
I just broke the tie between choice 1 and 2. Check the parts that are left for indications of previous cracking before they broke. You could always check with my Engineer, he spent extra time in his stress anlyasis class. |
Originally Posted by DRR Look James, I am not trying to be an ***. What I stated is I am puzzled as to how lucky you where. You must not have been on the throttle very hard is my speculation and with aluminum I don't see any wear around the yoke section of the driveshaft where it banged around on the ground. Because the driveshaft tube wasn't twisted and the U-joint is still in one piece i can only infer that the driveshaft bolts were either not tight enough or that the 9" rear requires a different U-joint than the stock 10-bolt rear and the wrong part caused it to fail. ----------
Originally Posted by 87IROCZ350TPI One of the 38% who still likes Bush, huh? :doh: |
None of the above. It was actually Vincent behind the wheel. :lmao: |
Originally Posted by 1989GTATransAm None of the above. It was actually Vincent behind the wheel. :lmao: |
What car is this you're driving??? I'm probably blind and didnt see you mention it. |
Originally Posted by Kevin91Z What car is this you're driving??? I'm probably blind and didnt see you mention it. :burnout: maybe this pic helps.... http://home.socal.rr.com/jfearn/pics/misc/bolts.JPG |
Hmmmm, another DEEP BLACK project. This is going to be good. :D |
Originally Posted by james_85Z28 you will need to measure the caps and the yoke. 1310= 1 1/16" 1330= 1 1/8" 1350= 1 3/16" |
Hmmmm, Ford nine inch rear, 3.5" Mufflex system. I wonder who's car that could be? Bwahahahahahaha. Deep Black project alright. :D :D :D |
Originally Posted by james_85Z28 After W and his Hurricane machine wreaked havoc on the underprivileged and poor in 2005, I can only assume he is testing his u-joint bolt extractor and i was one of the first to be tested this year....... By the way, want to actually answer any relevant questions about your car that I've been asking, or should we just turn this into a political mud-slinging forum? |
The dimocRATS in Louisiana had more to do with the failure of the initial relief effort and supplies more than anyone. Namely Blanco and Nagin. As the levies were overflowing Blanco was telling Bush everything was fine. I'll leave it at that as the facts do not support your case. |
As DDR said, there are different sized yokes for the 9", you really need to measure what you have and run the appropriate joint. There's a whole bunch of combination joints out there to adapt different size joints. |
89gta, I completely disagree with your attempt to steer the blame away from the Bush administration, but I will end it here. I admit fault for making my original smartass comment earlier in the thread, and I should not have responded to James' clever #4 option in his poll(that wasn't meant to be rude, James). I apologize for getting heated earlier and although it certainly may not sound like it, I truly do respect your right to your opinion. I won't challenge it again. |
Originally Posted by 87IROCZ350TPI 89gta, I completely disagree with your attempt to steer the blame away from the Bush administration, but I will end it here. I admit fault for making my original smartass comment earlier in the thread, and I should not have responded to James' clever #4 option in his poll(that wasn't meant to be rude, James). I apologize for getting heated earlier and although it certainly may not sound like it, I truly do respect your right to your opinion. I won't challenge it again. |
Thanks cali. |
Originally Posted by 87IROCZ350TPI Thanks cali. I retract my previous comment... |
Thats why New Yorkers are so cranky. The light at the end of their tunnel is New Jersey. |
Originally Posted by cali92RS Its OK to be rude to James in regards to politics... He is wrong 99% of the time in that arena ;) |
Originally Posted by Kevin91Z Different from you is not necessarily wrong. :) |
Originally Posted by 87IROCZ350TPI By the way, want to actually answer any relevant questions about your car that I've been asking, or should we just turn this into a political mud-slinging forum? You haven't added anything to this post but stir up controversy where a little joke was planted in the pole for those of use who know eahother personally on this Regional board. I would suggest that you post elsewhere. |
You're right, man. I'm sorry. Sorry everyone. |
It was Well, it's got camaro type wheels... Is that a 3'' exhaust? And it's parked at James house. |
Originally Posted by JulieGTA It was Is that a 3'' exhaust? but it appears to be 3.5" exhaust. |
Dean, You were right the exhaust was not keeping the driveshaft in. I guess because I had just got on the freeway and took immediate action when I heald somethng wrong, I guess that is what saved the driveshaft from falling completely out. But as you can see from the pic I posted there is one cap completely secured and the other cap has loose bolts. There were other loose fasteners on the PHR with the nut just about to fall off as well as the length adjusting nut not tightened as well. |
Originally Posted by james_85Z28 he driveshaft loop required at your speeds, Julie, should be located near the front u-joint and is to keep the car from pole-vaulting in case the front u-joint or driveshaft (near the front) breaks. There's no way a hollow driveshaft is going to lift a 3400+ lb. car. Especially an aluminum driveshaft. I once had my '84 El Camino get loose from the driveway while the d-shaft was unbolted from the rear axle. It rolled across the street, back wheels jumped the curb and the driveshaft folded like a toothpick. Did absolutely no damage to the car or trans. We're talking like 5mph or so tops. The show Myth Busters even tried this one. Sent a car speeding down a vacant runway, rigged the d-shaft to fail at the trans AND even strategically placed a pothole for the d-shaft to dig into. It took a few attempts, but they were able to get everything to excute as planned. The driveshaft pretty much folded up and punched into the trunk area of the car. No pogo-stick, poll vault or any other kind of aerobatics or gymnastics. The driveshaft loop required in racing prevents damage to the car and more importantly, the track surface. :D |
Originally Posted by BretD 88GTA C'mon James, you're an engineer. You know that whole "pole vaulting" thing is an urban legend. The driveshaft loop required in racing prevents damage to the car and more importantly, the track surface. :D I was at Beeline Dragway in 1969 when my driveshaft dropped in my '57 and tore up the brake lines under the car. I went off the track at approx. 90 mph and survived. '57 Chevys only had a single master cylinder. |
It looks like this car is white or use to be white and it has Camaro wheels. Boy I tell ya. The things that people will go through just to beat a brutha. Damn I'm good! I'm good at making people think of me when they are spending money to get around me. Good luck people! You're gonna need it:thumbsup: |
Originally Posted by VincentZ28 It looks like this car is white or use to be white and it has Camaro wheels. Which is the picture that shows any paint? |
Originally Posted by Dyno Don WRONG.....I lived to tell about it. I was at Beeline Dragway in 1969 when my driveshaft dropped in my '57 and tore up the brake lines under the car. I went off the track at approx. 90 mph and survived. '57 Chevys only had a single master cylinder.
Originally Posted by BretD 88GTA The driveshaft loop required in racing prevents damage to the car and more importantly, the track surface. :D You didn't do a somesault and flip the car end over end. Re-read everything I origianlly wrote. I was mainly addressing the myth that the car will do end over end flips if the shaft lets go and that's why a d-shaft loop is required. :cool: |
Originally Posted by james_85Z28 Dean, You were right the exhaust was not keeping the driveshaft in. I guess because I had just got on the freeway and took immediate action when I heald somethng wrong, I guess that is what saved the driveshaft from falling completely out. But as you can see from the pic I posted there is one cap completely secured and the other cap has loose bolts. There were other loose fasteners on the PHR with the nut just about to fall off as well as the length adjusting nut not tightened as well. The bolts will loosen due to misalingnment and vibration/ or they will snap off the u-joint. If you need help, I can research the proper U-joint you'll need from Summit racing or just go to a local driveline shop and they can help-they should have one on the shelf because its a common swap. I am going to have another ACPT CF driveshaft made very soon for my Truck. It has a Currie 9" in it with a 1330 rear yoke. I am going to swap it for a 1350 Strange billet steel yoke and have the driveshaft made with a 1350 also so I can run an even larger u-joint AND be able to run some Moroso gridle caps. I wipe out u-joints quite often in this truck due to the weight I carry, torque, and high speed driving I do in it. I can't keep u-joints into it the steel shaft I have in it. The truck came originally with an aluminum shaft WITH CF wrapping from the factory. Its a very long one piece shaft and the steel one is very heavy causing vibration. (note to Bret: I catapulted about 2 feet off the ground and pitched sideways on the freeway years ago in this truck when I cut the factory shaft in half from rubbing with too heavy of loads- Like Don, I too am lucky to be here. Felt like I was going to endo @ 85mph) |
Originally Posted by VincentZ28 It looks like this car is white or use to be white and it has Camaro wheels. Boy I tell ya. The things that people will go through just to beat a brutha. Damn I'm good! I'm good at making people think of me when they are spending money to get around me. Good luck people! You're gonna need it:thumbsup: ----------
Originally Posted by BretD 88GTA C'mon James, you're an engineer. You know that whole "pole vaulting" thing is an urban legend. |
Originally Posted by DRR Do you have a digital caliper (measuring tool)? If so then measure your yoke and u-joint caps. I would bet that the yoke is 1330 (1.125") and the u-joint is 1310 (1.063"). Its a common problem when swapping a Ford 9" into a Chev. The bolts will loosen due to misalingnment and vibration/ or they will snap off the u-joint. If you need help, I can research the proper U-joint you'll need from Summit racing or just go to a local driveline shop and they can help-they should have one on the shelf because its a common swap. I am going to have another ACPT CF driveshaft made very soon for my Truck. It has a Currie 9" in it with a 1330 rear yoke. I am going to swap it for a 1350 Strange billet steel yoke and have the driveshaft made with a 1350 also so I can run an even larger u-joint AND be able to run some Moroso gridle caps. I wipe out u-joints quite often in this truck due to the weight I carry, torque, and high speed driving I do in it. I can't keep u-joints into it the steel shaft I have in it. The truck came originally with an aluminum shaft WITH CF wrapping from the factory. Its a very long one piece shaft and the steel one is very heavy causing vibration. (note to Bret: I catapulted about 2 feet off the ground and pitched sideways on the freeway years ago in this truck when I cut the factory shaft in half from rubbing with too heavy of loads- Like Don, I too am lucky to be here. Felt like I was going to endo @ 85mph) |
"camarobird" |
Originally Posted by 1989GTATransAm "camarobird" |
Originally Posted by DRR Bret: I catapulted about 2 feet off the ground and pitched sideways on the freeway years ago in this truck when I cut the factory shaft in half from rubbing with too heavy of loads- Like Don, I too am lucky to be here. Felt like I was going to endo @ 85mph) I guess maybe I'm not choosing my words carefully enough. And heaven knows how people get trashed on these boards if you don't say things just right. :D |
Originally Posted by BretD 88GTA I guess maybe I'm not choosing my words carefully enough. And heaven knows how people get trashed on these boards if you don't say things just right. :D Actually, its not the end over end that p[eople need to fear ( I agree that is close to impossible to happen), its the rear lifting -PITCHING to a side and then coming back down that will flip the car at speed. Thats what darn near happened to me, but fortunately this truck's suspension is built and is very stiff sway resistence with massive springs, bars and Koni's, plus its lowered. I think if it were stock I definately would have rolled. James, Just to clarify and make sure we are on the same page, I am taking about the "diameter" of the caps, not the width of the u-joint legs or with of the cap And to quote Scarface ," I don't need no stinkin' driveshaft loop." I have the brooming effect if it were to ever happen again. My life at speed is well worth the $800 insurance policy of a CF driveshaft. It'll be nice to finally get one onto my truck so I feel safe and can drive above 80mph again. I get a bad vibration at 84mph. |
I love it…misdirection is an essential element of distraction. James there is no use trying to fool Dean. He knows damn well that the u-joint didn’t pop on the freeway. It seemed like a good story at the time but we both forgot to factor Dean into the equation. I’m afraid the gig is up player. I still bust up laughing thinking about how Sarkis ducked and covered his head when the driveshaft let loose…too funny. :lol: |
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