Help me out - Lowering 60 foot times - 350 TPI Okay, recently purchased a 88 IROC from another board member (CamaroZ28.com). Best time was a 13.79 @ 102.8mph, with 60 foots in the high 1.9x's My LS1 with an auto, stock converter and 2.73's goes 2.0x, so I know there's plenty of room to improve. The IROC has the stock converter, stock 3.27 gears, new posi, BMR LCA's, ported plenum, aftermarket runners+base, stock TB, stock chip. Nitto 555R's (245/50-16) on the back so I should have some room to go. Eibach Pro-Kit and KYB shocks. Should I step the converter up to a 2200rpm? I know going anywhere near 3,000 would be useless on a TPI. What about an adjustable torque arm? Poly engine/trans mounts? A friend put some on his 94 LT1 and it gave him a tenth. I'm thinking adjustable shocks in the rear would be a big help. What about the front? I'd like to still be able to handle, but if I can give the shocks a couple clicks when I get to the track that would be great. Maybe an air bag? Do I want to stiffen the rear or loosen it? What about the front? I know without going to an aftermarket intake the car will never be strong from a roll, but the current trap is pretty decent. I'd rather be very strong in the 60 foot, 1/8th mile, and on the street up to 70 or so. Lastly, if I get an aluminum driveshaft, will the nittos+L98 break it? |
Put a 4.10 in the rear my 60`s went from 2.1 to 1.7 with no other change, I had a 3.27 before the short gears. |
I would go with new srpings and shocks. That will be your biggest improvment with a new torque arm next. You want to get as much traction now before you add more power. 4.10's seem a bit steep for a street driven car with such a low rpm powerband. 3.42 or 3.73's would be the only gears I would switch to. Oh and a set of relocation brackets for those LCA's will be a nice mod as well. It is a must if you go with new springs. |
The 4 biggest things to get a good 60ft in an automatic ... Tires Stall Gears Power I always say to work on it in that order. People always immediately jump into the suspension and do torque arms, LCAs, etc. However, that usually makes traction worse because the suspension hits much harder and more violently. Tires and a torque converter can drop you by at least a couple of tenths in the first 60ft. Tim |
The car has LCA relocating brackets and Nitto drag radials right now |
Originally posted by robvas The car has LCA relocating brackets and Nitto drag radials right now |
Plenty of guys cut great 60fts with worn out stock front shocks and cheap replacement rear ones. I wouldn't screw with the shocks yet. You springs are very stiff (IROC package meant for handling, not quarter mile). You will lose some handling ability, but softer springs, particularly in the front would help. Does your car still haev the stock rear? I worry about blowing up the rear with tires that are rally sticky. LCA drop brackets and an adjustable torque arm are good ideas too. Your 60fts are nothing to sneeze at right now. |
Newer Eibach coils and KYB's all around Borg Warner 9 bolt , I'm not anywhere near breaking that yet The 60 foots aren't much better than my 2.73 automatic LS1 with the stock converter...that thing is a DOG out of the hole. I'm trying to get down in the 1.8/1.7 range. I'll try the torque arm, small converter, and a suspension swap. |
Originally posted by robvas 2.73 automatic LS1 |
I am pulling 1.6's with the stock torque arm with a poly bushing on the front. Spend your money on something else. Seriously. If you currently don't have a problem with traction then then only way you are going to get better 60ft times is either more power or more gear multiplication (torque converter or gears). Tim |
Yeah, stepping up the gears and a converter to match isn't a bad idea. If the car is track only go with 4.10s. If it sees street duty I'd say go with 3.73s. Get a converter around 2,400 stall. |
Originally posted by TKOPerformance Yeah, stepping up the gears and a converter to match isn't a bad idea. If the car is track only go with 4.10s. If it sees street duty I'd say go with 3.73s. Get a converter around 2,400 stall. |
If you were going through the traps below the peak power RPM you needed more gear! Typically you want to go through the traps about 200-500 RPM higher than your shift RPM. That just confirms that 3.73s or 4.10s would be the best choice. |
Originally posted by TKOPerformance If you were going through the traps below the peak power RPM you needed more gear! Typically you want to go through the traps about 200-500 RPM higher than your shift RPM. That just confirms that 3.73s or 4.10s would be the best choice. Tim |
Here is what I have. I get consistent 1.6 60' times. V-6 rear springs Spohn lca brackets Spohn torque arm Lakewood lca's 3.73's Auburn posi M/T et drags worn out rear shocks that need replaced I was running 7.70's and 7.80's in the 1/8th. I had negative results with the lca brackets. I had better times while not using them. |
Originally posted by 94-6spd Here is what I have. I get consistent 1.6 60' times. V-6 rear springs Spohn lca brackets Spohn torque arm Lakewood lca's 3.73's Auburn posi M/T et drags worn out rear shocks that need replaced I was running 7.70's and 7.80's in the 1/8th. I had negative results with the lca brackets. I had better times while not using them. |
Originally posted by White91GTA Where in Kentucky are you, I was in Hopkinsville for a year while activated to FT. Campbell. Do you run at the track in Clarksville? |
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