robvas

Okay, recently purchased a 88 IROC from another board member (CamaroZ28.com).

Best time was a 13.79 @ 102.8mph, with 60 foots in the high 1.9x's

My LS1 with an auto, stock converter and 2.73's goes 2.0x, so I know there's plenty of room to improve.

The IROC has the stock converter, stock 3.27 gears, new posi, BMR LCA's, ported plenum, aftermarket runners+base, stock TB, stock chip. Nitto 555R's (245/50-16) on the back so I should have some room to go. Eibach Pro-Kit and KYB shocks.

Should I step the converter up to a 2200rpm? I know going anywhere near 3,000 would be useless on a TPI.

What about an adjustable torque arm? Poly engine/trans mounts? A friend put some on his 94 LT1 and it gave him a tenth.

I'm thinking adjustable shocks in the rear would be a big help. What about the front? I'd like to still be able to handle, but if I can give the shocks a couple clicks when I get to the track that would be great. Maybe an air bag?

Do I want to stiffen the rear or loosen it? What about the front?

I know without going to an aftermarket intake the car will never be strong from a roll, but the current trap is pretty decent. I'd rather be very strong in the 60 foot, 1/8th mile, and on the street up to 70 or so.

Lastly, if I get an aluminum driveshaft, will the nittos+L98 break it?

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

Put a 4.10 in the rear my 60`s went from 2.1 to 1.7 with no other change, I had a 3.27 before the short gears.

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

I would go with new srpings and shocks. That will be your biggest improvment with a new torque arm next. You want to get as much traction now before you add more power. 4.10's seem a bit steep for a street driven car with such a low rpm powerband. 3.42 or 3.73's would be the only gears I would switch to. Oh and a set of relocation brackets for those LCA's will be a nice mod as well. It is a must if you go with new springs.

TRAXION

The 4 biggest things to get a good 60ft in an automatic ...

Tires
Stall
Gears
Power

I always say to work on it in that order. People always immediately jump into the suspension and do torque arms, LCAs, etc. However, that usually makes traction worse because the suspension hits much harder and more violently. Tires and a torque converter can drop you by at least a couple of tenths in the first 60ft.

Tim

robvas

The car has LCA relocating brackets and Nitto drag radials right now

ShiftyCapone

iTrader: (7)

That would make sense seeing how your 60' times are really good as they are. Shocks and springs and a torque arm should yield even better results. I am glad you have drag radials because street tires would be limited right now. Keep your fingers crossed that the rear doesn't go. 10 bolts and traction are like oil and water.

TKOPerformance

Plenty of guys cut great 60fts with worn out stock front shocks and cheap replacement rear ones. I wouldn't screw with the shocks yet.

You springs are very stiff (IROC package meant for handling, not quarter mile). You will lose some handling ability, but softer springs, particularly in the front would help.

Does your car still haev the stock rear? I worry about blowing up the rear with tires that are rally sticky.

LCA drop brackets and an adjustable torque arm are good ideas too.

Your 60fts are nothing to sneeze at right now.

robvas

Newer Eibach coils and KYB's all around

Borg Warner 9 bolt , I'm not anywhere near breaking that yet

The 60 foots aren't much better than my 2.73 automatic LS1 with the stock converter...that thing is a DOG out of the hole. I'm trying to get down in the 1.8/1.7 range.

I'll try the torque arm, small converter, and a suspension swap.

pre

Isn't that an oxymoron.

TRAXION

I am pulling 1.6's with the stock torque arm with a poly bushing on the front. Spend your money on something else. Seriously. If you currently don't have a problem with traction then then only way you are going to get better 60ft times is either more power or more gear multiplication (torque converter or gears).

Tim

TKOPerformance

Yeah, stepping up the gears and a converter to match isn't a bad idea. If the car is track only go with 4.10s. If it sees street duty I'd say go with 3.73s. Get a converter around 2,400 stall.

88IROC350TPI

3.73's or 4.10's would be insanely silly in a near stock 350TPI. Its been so long that I forget the exact RPMs but I remember when I had my near-stock L98 and 3.27 gears I'd be crossing the traps just lightly below my motor's peak power RPM. I was thinking 3.42 would have been absolutely perfect.

TKOPerformance

If you were going through the traps below the peak power RPM you needed more gear! Typically you want to go through the traps about 200-500 RPM higher than your shift RPM. That just confirms that 3.73s or 4.10s would be the best choice.

TRAXION

I agree. I ran 3.73's back when I had stock heads/cam and they worked great.

Tim

94-6spd

Here is what I have. I get consistent 1.6 60' times.

V-6 rear springs
Spohn lca brackets
Spohn torque arm
Lakewood lca's
3.73's
Auburn posi
M/T et drags
worn out rear shocks that need replaced

I was running 7.70's and 7.80's in the 1/8th. I had negative results with the lca brackets. I had better times while not using them.

White91GTA

Where in Kentucky are you, I was in Hopkinsville for a year while activated to FT. Campbell. Do you run at the track in Clarksville?

94-6spd

I'm in Paducah. Never been to Clarksville's track. I go to West Frankfort, IL, Gleason, TN, and Sikeston, MO. Oh, Bowling Green also. FT. Campbell is about an hour from here.