Originally Posted by hellz_wings (Post 4868330)

Hey guys,

Wondering what your input was on these new pieces that Fly n Bye performance is featuring for 2011...

http://www.flynbye.com/catalog/i224.html

I think these are lighter than what we have (i have LS1 brake kit hubs)..

Are these strong enough for road racing / autox? And how much lighter are these compared to stock?

Thanks,
-Marc

Originally Posted by 87350IROC (Post 4868473)

I would be extremely nervous buying those without seeing more pictures and hearing who designed them and of what material. I'd also want to know the manufacturing process. Hubs are not something you want to fail.

Originally Posted by hellz_wings (Post 4869620)

To be honest when I found the aluminum hubs on Fly n Bye's I thought of your g-body aluminum hubs you mentioned in one of your posts.. Didn't know they were custom made though and THAT expensive.. Geez.. lol.. But say if these were 7075 Aluminum hubs then would that be strong enough to handle road racing?

Originally Posted by tylercamaro (Post 4869659)

vetruck, do the g body hubs bolt right on to a thirdgens factory spindles, or do you have different ones?

Originally Posted by hellz_wings (Post 4870874)

Is there any issues with using longer wheelstuds and the IROC rims? I was planning on getting stronger studs just in case cuz the stock ones probably aren't strong enough for the high lateral stresses i'm planning on putting my car through..

Originally Posted by Vetruck (Post 4870450)

I would definately use them without hesitation.

Originally Posted by 87350IROC (Post 4870915)

I would be hesitant without knowing more about the material selection, heat treat, anti-corrosion coatings, manufacturing process, etc.

Originally Posted by 89_RS (Post 4870984)

While these are important, none of them really matter. The important thing to keep in mind is that 7075, while stronger than steel, suffers from Stress-Corrosion Cracking. It won't show a single sign of wear until the whole thing just cracks in two. Theres a great display of it in our Aero Engineering building from aircraft landing gear. I'll try to get a pic of it this week.

Keep in mind, aluminum dings easily which means that coating will only work until it gets chipped. As for my opinion being bold, its really not. I've made hubs before and 6061 would work, but it'd also be super bulky. 7075 has better strength than steel and allows for less bulk, but the trade off is SCC.

Originally Posted by 89_RS (Post 4870984)

Theres a great display of it in our Aero Engineering building from aircraft landing gear.

Originally Posted by 87350IROC (Post 4871011)

Purdue?

Originally Posted by 87350IROC (Post 4870913)

There is nothing wrong with the stock wheel studs. If you break them its because the lug nuts weren't tightened or they are severely corroded.

Originally Posted by hellz_wings (Post 4871209)

I have stock 26 spline axles, would it be worthwhile to go with new 26 spline forged moser axles with arp studs? Also I've heard c-clip eliminators are safer as well..

Originally Posted by hellz_wings (Post 4871209)

I have stock 26 spline axles, would it be worthwhile to go with new 26 spline forged moser axles with arp studs? Also I've heard c-clip eliminators are safer as well..

Originally Posted by 89_RS (Post 4871339)

Tech Article on the 10-bolt from TGO :nod::

https://www.thirdgen.org/beefinguprear

Originally Posted by hellz_wings (Post 4871209)

I found this book on google books..

http://books.google.ca/books?id=ck4a...page&q&f=false

Not sure if that link is going to work but check it out. They mention the stock studs not being strong enough for racing.. Studs are cheap no? I figure why not spend the extra 60-70$ for stronger studs.

Vetruck: So by installing the hubs you increased your track width, right? And wow.. ARP stud failure is surprising since they are supposed to strong enough to handle that type of driving, kinda scary..
I have stock 26 spline axles, would it be worthwhile to go with new 26 spline forged moser axles with arp studs? Also I've heard c-clip eliminators are safer as well..

Originally Posted by TEDSgrad (Post 4871400)

check out #17 & #18 posts in this thread:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/brak...e-fitment.html

The hubs look fine to me. The supplied stud bolts were way too short.

Originally Posted by 87350IROC (Post 4871766)

I cannot view the page but interesting non the less. I have not heard of a single failure on any car. Either way as you say new studs are cheap.

Originally Posted by TEDSgrad (Post 4872744)

Yes, got them from Ed. They look stout and are heavier than I expected, though still much lighter than stock. I'll take a look this weekend, but I don't recall any markings - remember thinking that they were darker colored than I expected for aluminum.

Originally Posted by hellz_wings (Post 4868330)

Are these strong enough for road racing / autox? And how much lighter are these compared to stock?

Thanks,
-Marc

Originally Posted by scooter (Post 4951522)

I have a feeling Ed is probably using the hubs from another vendor, guessing about the "darker appearance" I think I know who he probably buys them from but I wont speculate in the public forum but I have them and they have been very good to me. I also got the extended ARP wheel studs when I bought them. I was a little miffed when I found out that the place now (I think) type III anodizes them now and I wish mine had been. But overall they are nice pieces and should not have any problems in racing or auto-x. I got my 12" Wilwood kit from Ed and I sent him my hubs for him to make my set so I think he is probably re-selling what I had bought, but I could be wrong

Info from where I bought mine from:

CNC machined
6061-T6511 billet aluminum
Dual 5 x 4-3/4" wheel patterns
3.10 lb [1.40 kg] each
Anodized black

Originally Posted by 1989GTATransAm (Post 4952056)

I assume the weight is the main advantage of going to aluminum hubs. If so does anyone know the weight difference? I see in the post above the aluminum ones weigh 3.10 lbs.

Originally Posted by 3rdgenmaro (Post 4952289)

For everyone talking about Anodizing, you need to do your research.
Anodizing DECREASES the fatigue life of aluminum components. In other words, it causes it to fail quicker.

Remember this the next time you want something anodized just because it looks pretty.

Originally Posted by 3rdgenmaro (Post 4952289)

Aluminum has one major flaw that affects it much more then steel. Fatigue. An aluminum part will break. It is a matter of when not if.

Originally Posted by FlyDoc (Post 4964803)

I weighted mine today, they are stock hub/rotor, with the rotor cut off.
they are 9lbs, with studs bearings and grease, as you can see in the pic.

Originally Posted by MKKNIGHT (Post 4965338)

My understanding of Anodizing is different to yours
Aluminum has an oxide layer anyway this is one of the reasons why its more difficult to weld. the oxide layer is more dense and takes more heat to liquidify where as the main section of aluminum takes far less heat, that where the skill of the welder is critical, noticing how the material is changing state.
Anodizing basically thickens this layer (which can be dyed to give that "nice finish")
Without refreshing myself on it, and off the top of my head it would be wrong to say that it doesnt decrease the fatigue life. But I do know that when im specing a part to be anodized Im doing it to increase the part surface hardness and increase its corrosion resistance.
not saying that just becuase u anodize aluminuim it doesnt corrode anymore... cos it does just not as fast.

All materials its a matter of when not if
like for like yer steel is stonger, but high end aluminums can match and outperform a range of steels, obviously is never going to out do high end high strength steel, but if the forces on the part dont exceed the properities of the aluminuim then the part is okay to be built from aluminuim.


Be interested to know what grade of aluminuim these hubs are, and what the grade of steel the stocks were made from.
id be interested as long as u know the aluminuim is up to the job.

just my 2 cents

Originally Posted by 3rdgenmaro (Post 4968200)

There have been several studies showing that anodizing does decrease the fatigue life. You can do a search on that if you would like. I dont have a link right now off the top of my head but Im sure you could find something form google.

Here is one http://www.experimentalhelo.com/Anodizing&Fatigue.pdf

and another. http://www.finishing.com/444/19.shtml

Anodizing has its uses. It just depends on what you are doing with the part. For a high fatigue part like a hub, I would recommend not using it especially if a non-anodized part was offered. (which I dont even know if it is or not) These hubs with an anodized finish may last 1 million miles, I dont know. All I know is that the nonanodized will outlast the anodized.