what machine work should i have done? so im beginning my 383 build. using my l98 block and heads, what work should i have the shop do to the block? heads? im going to durability. not crazy power but enough to put some hondas back in their place. im going forged rotating assembly. got an lt1 cam from a 1993 vette (for free) so far i have block: clean block-new freeze plugs line hone mains. bore .030 over hone. clearance the deck to spec? machinist said that werent even close? idk anyways heads: new valves. screw in studs. mild port and polish not crazy but mainly just clean up the rough cast for smooth flow. and input for springs? not really wanting to go insane as i still have emissions testing to consider. 89 350 TPI. planning on getting my intake ported and polished as well. |
Re: what machine work should i have done?
Originally Posted by 92crimsonRS
(Post 5675856)
383 build. using my l98 block and heads, im going to durability. not crazy power got an lt1 cam bore .030 over hone. Why a forged assembly intended for max power /revs if you are not after ultimate power ? and are planning on using stock heads / intake and a tiny ,wimpy cam from a LT1 that will strangle a 383 anyway Your engine will never make the power or rev high enough to justify the cost of a forged setup , buy a cast steel . You should have the pistons 1st so the shop can measure them and bore the cylinders to suit them exactly |
Re: what machine work should i have done?
Originally Posted by vetteoz
(Post 5675878)
Seeing a lot of mis-matching and wasted $$$ there... There is so much wrong there, you should stop immediately, put all expenditures on hold, and educate yourself on the finer points of how engines work. |
Re: what machine work should i have done? clearance the deck to spec? machinist said that werent even close? Decking the block flat and true to the rotating assembly, and taking off the extra heignt to get the deck clearance to zero (i.e. making the pistons reach the top of the deck), can be a HUGE factor in making 2 motors that look like they were built from the same parts list, run COMPLETELY different. As long as you stick with the stock TPI and the stock heads, no sense in spending giga$$$ on bottom end parts; there won't be enough stress on them to bother. Take all the money you DON'T waste on that, and put it towards TUNING equipment. Consider a MODERN TUNABLE ECM, instead of the old Stone Age relic your car came with; maybe even, something like retrofitting a LSx ECM onto your project, to give you sequential injection, individual tuning of each cyl, tuning more or less on the fly, etc. etc. etc. Gotta agree about the cam. People put cams like that in TBI 305s because they're SO mild they even work with that stock tune. That's not the cam for you. Sell it to some one of them and get something that makes sense for a 383. Something in the range of the Comp "502" or "503" grinds for example. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...02-8/overview/ On your heads, you will find that if you have to pay someone to port them for you, then by the time you pay for:
I don't see a word in there about the ONE thing that will make your CAR faster, as opposed to, trying to overcome all the other limitations by making the MOTOR put out more power; which is, the torque converter. I also don't see mentioned, gears or exhaust. All that stuff costs MONEY. Money that disappears and is no longer available if you start out your project with overkill short-block parts. Parts that will keep your CAR slow no matter how much power the MOTOR ends up putting out. As I told someone else recently:
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Re: what machine work should i have done? Free parts are just that... the have core or scrap value and nothing more for what you want to do. 383 crate engine... bolt on your TPI system with BS3 or other modern EFI controller No sence using a machinist to build exactly what you can buy for LESS MONEY right out of a catalog. save that time and money for the rest of the drivetrain and EFI parts also the transmission and rear end will need attention to make the best use of the 383. good luck |
Re: what machine work should i have done? http://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint-Engi...rentProductId= This is the power level you are looking at. SO take this create engine specs as a starting point, since you already have a block machined and recreate it. |
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