92crimsonRS

so im beginning my 383 build. using my l98 block and heads, what work should i have the shop do to the block? heads? im going to durability. not crazy power but enough to put some hondas back in their place. im going forged rotating assembly. got an lt1 cam from a 1993 vette (for free)

so far i have
block:
clean block-new freeze plugs
line hone mains.
bore .030 over hone.
clearance the deck to spec? machinist said that werent even close? idk anyways

heads:
new valves.
screw in studs.
mild port and polish not crazy but mainly just clean up the rough cast for smooth flow.

and input for springs? not really wanting to go insane as i still have emissions testing to consider.

89 350 TPI.

planning on getting my intake ported and polished as well.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Seeing a lot of mis-matching and wasted $$$ there

Why a forged assembly intended for max power /revs if you are not after ultimate power ?
and are planning on using stock heads / intake and a tiny ,wimpy cam from a LT1 that will strangle a 383 anyway

Your engine will never make the power or rev high enough to justify the cost of a forged setup , buy a cast steel .

You should have the pistons 1st so the shop can measure them and bore the cylinders to suit them exactly

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

Yes, what you're building is an expensive detonation-prone tractor engine.
There is so much wrong there, you should stop immediately, put all expenditures on hold, and educate yourself on the finer points of how engines work.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

They usually aren't, so no big surprise there.

Decking the block flat and true to the rotating assembly, and taking off the extra heignt to get the deck clearance to zero (i.e. making the pistons reach the top of the deck), can be a HUGE factor in making 2 motors that look like they were built from the same parts list, run COMPLETELY different.

As long as you stick with the stock TPI and the stock heads, no sense in spending giga$$$ on bottom end parts; there won't be enough stress on them to bother. Take all the money you DON'T waste on that, and put it towards TUNING equipment. Consider a MODERN TUNABLE ECM, instead of the old Stone Age relic your car came with; maybe even, something like retrofitting a LSx ECM onto your project, to give you sequential injection, individual tuning of each cyl, tuning more or less on the fly, etc. etc. etc.

Gotta agree about the cam. People put cams like that in TBI 305s because they're SO mild they even work with that stock tune. That's not the cam for you. Sell it to some one of them and get something that makes sense for a 383. Something in the range of the Comp "502" or "503" grinds for example. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...02-8/overview/

On your heads, you will find that if you have to pay someone to port them for you, then by the time you pay for:

• Screw-in studs
• Guide plates
• New valves
• New springs
• New retainers
• Port work (FORGET "polish"; 90% of the gains from working on heads, is achieved right behind the valves, and around the guides: "polish" is monkey-spank left over from the Frod flathead days)
• Cutting the guides for the higher lift
• Cutting the spring pockets for larger springs, or, buying beehives instead of straight springs

that you have about 80% OR MORE of the price of a good (NOT ProComp or other chinesium ones) set of aftermarket heads. The "economy" of using a "free" used stock cam disappears IN A HURRY when you start messing with heads.

I don't see a word in there about the ONE thing that will make your CAR faster, as opposed to, trying to overcome all the other limitations by making the MOTOR put out more power; which is, the torque converter. I also don't see mentioned, gears or exhaust. All that stuff costs MONEY. Money that disappears and is no longer available if you start out your project with overkill short-block parts. Parts that will keep your CAR slow no matter how much power the MOTOR ends up putting out.

As I told someone else recently:

• Power comes from the induction system (heads, cam, intake, exhaust)
• Survival at that power level comes from the bottom end
• Speed comes from the drive train
• Long-term reliability, and differentiating your creation from the guy in the other lane that bought the same parts you did, comes from attention to detail
• Economy comes from choosing parts that are appropriate to your goals; no big overkill on high-$$$ bottom end parts, no cheeeeeeeeping out on the cam (or anything else), but rather, everything together, as a system, in harmony, consistent with itself

Good luck!!

FRMULA88

Free parts are just that... the have core or scrap value and nothing more for what you want to do.

383 crate engine... bolt on your TPI system with BS3 or other modern EFI controller

No sence using a machinist to build exactly what you can buy for LESS MONEY right out of a catalog. save that time and money for the rest of the drivetrain and EFI parts


also the transmission and rear end will need attention to make the best use of the 383.


good luck

FRMULA88

http://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint-Engi...rentProductId=

This is the power level you are looking at. SO take this create engine specs as a starting point, since you already have a block machined and recreate it.